s13_Skyline_inside

hi if anyone has these bits I need them, saves me getting them from nissan Coil pack brackets to suit rb26 head the plate that holds the rear main seal water inlet pipe (the one that bolts onto the thermostat) rb26 oil dipstick and pipe rb26 coil pack loom in good condition if anyone in syd has these parts lying around let me know and the price thanks

hmm it doesnt give me the option for an rb30, only rb20's and an rd28? and some ca18s's hmm mayby i dont have the aussie parts file loaded

hornsby nissan parts guys are great for imports, also there is one guy at lincorp automotive in "rosehill?" near parra who is good with import stuff well gtr stuff anyway, yeh some of them appreciate it when they get a customer that knows the info on their car, instead of telling you the date it was first rego'd instead of when it was made, or telling you its a white camry that is about 7 years old or so and dont know anything else, sorry end rant i work in aftermarket spare parts i could go on about those types of customers for ages

I wonder how long it will take before people start associating v6-straight 6 falcodores with this kinda stuff

whats a decent house alarm worth anyway if anyone knows, my house is a pain big glass windows so an alarm should be on the cards

sorry but what have the standard turbo's got to do with the dead engine, did they blow up and go through it or did it lean out?

can someone post up an r31 vin, i need to look through fast for some block bits

sorry but whats a bov got to do with crank case ventilation?

it takes way more than 1.25 ltrs into the rad so id say you havnt lost all the coolant

or anyone who is running Bosch injectors how have you set them up?

ok, ive got an 11mm fuel rail and bosch motorsport injectors, pretty sure the bosch injectors need an 14mm rail if anyone wants to clarify this, anyway i was thinking of getting the rail drilled out to 14mm, its an anodized billet fuel rail, id get it done properly of course so it was dead straight and there is definitely enough meat there for them to be drilled out. this should be ok if you made sure the rail was cleaned properly inside before installation and would the metal be ok without the anodized finish to it?

well you take off the standard bov, get a flat peice of alloy or type of metal of your choosing cut to the same shape with the holes for the bolts drilled through it, cut some gasket paper and bolt it down in place of the standard bov, then block of the vac line and plumb back line it will affect your turbo when changing gears, the air will hit the throttle body come back through the compressor blades and slow it down or stall it so you will get more lag when changing gears but you will have a fully sick sounding car......

i did away with the fan and made a thermo setup

man that cheap pipe kit is, well there must be a better word that really really crap, and those trust and hks kits are just beautiful. its not that its made in china that makes it crap, its that its made to a price, you can go to a chinese factory and say to them to make something to a price and thats what they will do or you can ask them how much it will cost for them to make said part to a quality and specify which materials they should use and then pay that price and you will have a good quality product. anyway yeh some stuff good some stuff bad but once again YUK at this specific kit

I always get asked where I got the part numbers with an accusing look when i quote the right part numbers

they are not trying to say dont give it a squirt, they are just saying exercise a bit of throttle control, ease it on in fist, ive got a pretty much standard r34gtt with a bit of boost wound into it atm and it spins the wheels in first if i flatten it, not dump the clutch. Do you think when driving a race car they use 100% throttle in the lower gears, if a cars making decent power rwd it'll light them up

it wears out the transfer case, but yeh been discussed before, if beer baron is around he might have some input

im not sure if the tension on an rb30 is the same but id imagine it is crank it over by hand with the top tensioner loosened of and the lower tensioner tighened up to the position you want it in, crank over 2-3 times so that the exaust side is tensioned and the slack is on the inlet side. the r32gtr workshop manual says the following " - Insert the hexagonal wrench into the hexagonal hole. While holding it by hand so that the tensioner does not move, tighten the tensioner securing nut to specified tightening torque. Tightening torque - 43 - 58 NM (4.4 - 5.9 kg-m, 32 - 43 ft-lb) - The initial tension on the belt should be 196N (20kg, 44lb) in this condition" id say from reading this that the belt tension should be 196N, done through the hex socket and that the tension on the securing nut should be 43 - 58NM. Id have to grab a torque wrench from my mates place to be sure though to see if it feels right be hand anyway hope that helps Lee

ouch no worries, thanks ill go for the 15ft for starters and see how i go, the stuff im getting is 2.5", if i need more i can order another 15ft roll thanks

as the topic states, if anyone has used heat wrap to wrap up their manifold, how much did you use approximately, would you say 7.5 feet at 2.5 inch wide would be enough or should i just go for the 15 ft?

dont know if the cam profiles are different, but guess if your building a new engine for it then you might go aftermarket cams, in that case the only difference is the drive, so just make sure you order sticks for an r34 gtr so the drive is the same, the bare head is the same

keep the posts comming with the progress, im interested to know how the tune goes, im looking to get advan to tune mine with a g4 as well

oh and by using two tensioners i can get a good belt tension and still fit it all behind the covers without modifying them, now to make up a fibreglass plate to cover the hole so i can make the 3ltr conversion a bit less obvious

ok i sorted it, read up on the epoxy and it can withstand up to 170 degree's C, HSN timing belt that the rb's use can withstand up to 130 degree's C so im sure it would be fine to use, but I didnt use it cause i wasnt sure about the heat till i got home and referenced of the timing belt box. Anyway what I did was use three large washers, cut just into the hole on two of them and then the last one stayed whole which came to the perfect hight and was flat against the block. just thought I'd say what I did with the situation incase anyone else does a search with the same problem, thanks for the input leeroy and pro engines, helped with my thoughts

i am using a high mount tensioner and a low mount so i can fit them behind the covers without cutting them, as it stands at the moment i cant mount a idler or a tensioner in the lower position, would be great to post the cad pics but i wouldnt know what to do with them would be worth a look though. I was thinking of using some of the epoxy metal stuff, cant rember what the real name of it is though, comes in a tube like a Plasticine, getting a threaded dowel, screwing it into the block, wrap some tin foil around it or lube it up with some vaso so the epoxy doesnt stick to it, have a large washer and a nut, anyway put the epoxy around the dowel to cover an area big enough to mount the tensioner on, then screwing the nut and washer down to the right height so it creates a flat surface on the epoxy, let it set then screw the dowel out and then screw a bolt through the tensioner, hardened epoxy and into the block. this should work as long as the hardened epoxy can stand up to the engine heat an oil if any gets on it. I'll have to read up on it at work tomorrow.