s13_Skyline_inside

seems like aot of people have had issue's with the JJ radiators, i was thinking about getting one a while back but got another standard one instead, are they really that bad?

dunno why some of you guys want to dob him in, even if its somthing you wouldnt do yourself why would you want o cause trouble for someone, you dont even know the guy personally and he's not hurting you in anyway shape or form, as said before its car theft and that type of type of low life behaviour that makes your insurance go up no the odd crash, think about how many people write their car off on the road. would it be better if he was street racing and wrapped the car around a pole or into some poor bastards front yard, at least then you'd be happy cause it'd be a 100% legit claim right, he wouldnt have to say he was street racing just lost concentration and came of the road.

haha funny you said that, mate of mine had a shit box 80 sumtin ford lazer that the grill had fallen out of from previous acco and got defected for it

in a word yes, you cant have any moving parts etc exposed, like you cant have a dirty big supercharger hanging out the bonnet with a belt on it, 1 example

hmmm, might just leave the 10" in there as is then thanks, i really dont know too much about the sound department

ive got it for ps3, awsome game, the pikes peak unlimited are the best, and the way you set up your car is pretty accurate to, if you wanna get sidways just play with the diff setup

reason im asking is that im oversea's at the moment and was thinking about buying them from HK (cheaper) before i come back to aus, ive got a 34 gtt and was thinking about putting an 8" or two if they would fit in a custom box that fills up that little space under the parcel tray as i dont really want them in the main space of the boot, got a 10" pioneer 600watt at the moment and would really want similar sound to what ive got, more punchy than anything else, just wondering if anyone has any experiences with this type of thing? basicly just want to figure out if it would be better just to leave the single 10" bolted to the corner of the boot

if it is the fuel pump, then its to do with the extra load put on the engine when the air con is on, i reckon if you ran direct power to the pump it wouldnt change noise.

yeh if you've got a vent to atmo BOV then that would most likely be the reason for stalling, to do with the air flow meter, i used to have an r32 with a atmo bov and it didnt stall an my 34 has the standard plumback so im not really sure how to fix it, just make sure its not leaking etc, try tighting the spring up a bit.

hehe i gotta get one of those ones, but seriously i wonder if people actually buy them?

900 is pretty good if ask me, as said by pro engine, consider the time etc to make one, cnc machined quality and all the bit included, not to mention it 100% works by sealing the oil and its strong, have a look at the bottom of an rb26 block and then look at the bottom of your rb30 block, then think about making one that will actually seal and be as strong yourself at home, and yeh i think they're about 10mm thick so it's lower your sump 10mm and that means lowering your diff so yeh the drive shafts will be missaligned and put more pressue on the cv joints. so you might want to raise the engine from the mounts by 10mm to keep the sump where it was orignally and yes you probably will have clearance issue's up top given the extra 30mm extra up top the rb30 block has over other rb engines. (biggest turn off doing the conversion in a gtr not a gtt/gtst )

the twins are more of a precationary approach, and yes gunna be running am fuel rail etc, may as well just add another line the same size as the standard one

you should have sold this about half a year ago before i started buying all the bits for mine but unfotunatly ive got all my bits ready to go together soon, just wanted to say its worth the asking price for sure.

yeh thats what i thought, the stock ones look really strong unlike some aftermarket ones i've seen just wanted to know what other people thought bout them

agreed with all the comments above, really bad for that to happen on a run in tune. and yeh not really a good idea to re-use pistons in my opinon, easpically if this kind of thing has happened to them the clearances would be stuffed

how about running twin pumps into a single standard line? or should you go for a line for each pump?

just from what you've described sounds like mayby you need to be looking in the actuator area, cause all the wastgate is on a stock turbo is just simply a gate, if its comming loose and hitting the dump pipe, my advise if you want to save money would be just take the turbo off yourself and give it to gcg or another turbo place directly so you dont have to go to a workshop and see what they say about it and go from there.

not gunna solve the problem but just thought id add this in for the future, you can run a manual with an auto ecu with no problems, but you cant run an auto with a manual ecu. the vct is oil activated to do with oil pressure i think, i dont know enough about it to give advice though.

id be fairly interested to see what people think of the stock lines as well, stock line i should say, im going to be running twin 044's, i dont know if i should join them together into the single stock line or run an extra line the same diameter as the stock line for the 2nd pump?

sorry ill just add this as well, you'll find that it the slip light comes on when backing off into corners with a mechanical diff cause they lock up on decel as well as accel and the slip light comes on to tell you the traction control is kicking in (hence the cutting the power to the engine) and the diff is probaly ending the comp those signals when it locks up on decel hope that clears a few things up for you have fun with it but be carefull mechanical diffs can bite back at you if your not carefull and arent used to them, alot more aggressive than a standard viscous one.

sounds like you've got either a 1.5 or a 2 way mechanical lsd and a twin plate clutch, yeh just flick the switch, kinda gets annoying after a while though doing it every time you turn the car on, i leave it on so i dont get carried away hehe. but yeh mechanical diff's will chew out the tyre's quicker than normal lsd's, and multiplate clutches sound kinda like there are nuts and bolts rattling around inside the bell housing when the pedal is pushed in, car was most likley used for a bit of drift and/or touge in japan.

your turbo would be fine, as said before its if you let it sit still for a decent periode of time after it's been totally thrashed so it has some decent heat in it.

ill just wait till i get back to aus, get the engine done, then worry bout it, open them both up and see what can be done, will post what happens with it tho so people can use it for future reference wish me luck hehe

just wondering abou the stock r34 gtt front strut brace, it looks chunkier than most after market ones and also has the adjustment for tightness, anyone changed to an aftermarket one and felt better?

yeh id say it would just be fuel an need a re-tune unless its blue