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s13_Skyline_inside

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Everything posted by s13_Skyline_inside

  1. that front bar look pretty cool, kinda like a gtr one for a gtt,
  2. yeh id be a bit unsure bout putting them in the oven lol, might melt the other plastic bit on the headlights if you dont get it just right or at the right temp, might be ok if you stuck em in a low temp an always checked them
  3. by the way what "dose" or sumtin, heard it mentioned earlier in the thread, oh an this guy should calm down a bit i think GTST Posted Today, 11:15 AM I hope all you bov f**kers get aidz from a ghey donkey just a little bit out of line, and ill back it up that the stalling thing is not an urban myth, i think its alot worse on SR20 than on rb's tho, used to have a gtst with a hks ssq an it didnt stall, did backfire alot tho, and before this looser gtst tell me to go f**k my mum or sumtin cause i have an atmo on my car, yes i took it off cause it got annoying but i think for high power applications vent to atmo is understandable, but then again people wouldnt know how much power your making an just think your a wanker thats if you really care what people think so much
  4. I like the autronics, but then again im anti airflow meter , and they're not cheap, but the bennifs they have over other stand alone computers is worth the price, i like to have my car running as smooth as it would do with a standard comp tho, haltecs are pretty good as well from what ive heard but then again they're not the cheapest solution.
  5. battery Posted Today, 02:48 PM just make sure you get a thermostat otherwise it will takes ages to get the engine up to operating temp and/or make the temps to low thus creating wear. do most kits come with a thermostat or do you usually buy it as an extra, never really heard of a thermostat on an oil cooler
  6. just read a bit about the os kit, price would be ok considering you get a new block and it all comes assembled with the good bit, so 3ltr giken kit would be awsome if you dont care about a bit of fab work on bonnet etc
  7. i dont think the os giken 3ltr kit is anywhere near that price, i know otomoto in syd sells os giken stuff, ok i was wrong these things are farkin expensive not 30k but close enough to it here's the link http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/RB30_race_engine.htm 3ltr is 23.500k and the 3.1 ltr kit is 25.500k and as r32-25t said 3ltr in a gtr has its issues, add an extra 30mm to the top of the engine for the extra capacity and add another 10mm to the bottom of the engine for the spacer plate (only need the spacer plate if you run an rb30 block) you cant really go to far moving the engine up or down in a gtr cause of the front drive shafts, move them to much and you chew the front wheel bearings if you went the os giken way you just have to worry bout the 30mm on the top of the engine, mayby just raise the bonnet a bit if you had clearance issue's so you didnt have to mess with the orientation of the drive shafts. anyway if i had a gtr and was making this decision id go the hks 2.8 kit, good internals, cheaper than the os kit, not as much stuffing around with the hight etc hope this helps
  8. not trying to start an argument with some of you guys but your getting pretty emotional about this whole topic, and yes vent to air on a pretty stock car is a bit of a wank as the air flow meter does need plum back for the engine to run properly but some people do like the noise myself included (the simple noise not the BOV that play a frigging song tho lol) im currently building an engine that hopfully will rip undies and am going to run a trust type R vent to atmo (will be running an autronic, map sensor not air flow meter) but seriously if soeone likes to have a vent to atmo valve on their car you dont really need to jump down their throat until you change their minds and ill say it again yes its anoying to have a loose atmo valve that goes of even when you change gears whilst jst cruising along
  9. yeh not sure if garage 13 does them, just said to check out the website cause they seem to have alot of body conversion stuff, you should be able to use genuine parts i'd imagine like gtr bar gtr bonnet gtr lights (dunno if tehy're different from gtt) and get them from any jap wrecker that has the bit in stock and yeh do it, looks hot
  10. yeh the high beams aren't hid the main lights are hid, with my 34 when you hit the high beams it comes up yellow like a normal car light, but they come on and the hid dont turn off so all 4 lights are on, id say just take out the high beams and see if you can get some blue type bulbs for them probably h1's same as r33 id imagine
  11. just a thought, simple an easy to check, could the cat be blocked, after tunin an stuff could have melted the cat, my old 180 wouldnt rev over 3k ended up being blocked cat, fueling was up the ass but it was a stock ca18 anyway just a thought
  12. should be able to put the gtr front end on take the blitz D1 car for example 4 door with gtr front end, you'd need the bonnet as well for sure but dont know about the guards (shouldnt have to change them), call up garage 13 they seemt o be the guys who know about these kits
  13. the headlights should be ok, since so many ricers have it.. they came standard with xenons so quite a few people have them if they didnt get complied properly not just ricers and im pretty sure (not 100%) that fiberglass bonnets and guards are illegal, there is one place in Queensland that has just gotten their fibreglass bonnets approved in their state (artical in the last hot 4's) as said before, to o with crumple zones
  14. hehe yeh the seats is kind of a crucial part to leave out when considering the price lol, looks tops tho
  15. have a look in DIY/tutorials section its been covered
  16. thanks yeh looks like the best option would be to get an r34 arc replacment cooler and have the pipework made up, was thinking bout getting the kit an just changing some of the pipework but all the cooler kits for gtt ar turn flow type not crossflow
  17. was looking at buying an arc cooler kit for my r34gtt, have seen some kits where the piping does a u turn and goes back behind the cooler, tryed searching google an stuff for the company site to ave a look at their various set ups but couldnt find it does anyone know it. thing is i wanted to get an arc kit but wanted one where the pipes came up on either side of the engine so i can have a forward facing plenum, any info bout the kits (what people think of them / set up ) would be appreciated as well as the site address thanks
  18. thats an awsome design man, just 1 question or thing id be orried about, how does the amp hold up without air around it. The reason I ask is cause ive had an amp catch fire before, it was a shit amp and not the best instalation (just got my licence, older and wiser now hopfully ) but it was placed under my drivers seat so i smelt it before anything bad could happen, and i thought mayby extra dust and lack of air circulating might have been a contributing factor.
  19. CRD are good very proffesional, ive heard they charge a bit more than other places but then again you really do get what you pay for with them.
  20. 75-85 and im not sure how many litre's exactly 5ltr should be enough (shoud be inbetween 3-4ltr), there is not an exact amount you just fill up the hole on the side until it overflows then put the plug back in, easy not as much of a pain as an auto
  21. yeh i cant understand why some people just block it off at the rear, all that shyt is so heavy, i chucked it all out but i left the two lines running along the rail of the car there just incase for fuel like BHdave said
  22. yeh i thought they might be, i guess ill just have t wait till i get back from holidays and pull em apart and have a look, or just bite the bullet sell the 2-way and buy a new one for the 34 thanks for the info tho
  23. ive got a 2-way mechanical diff for an r32 gtst from a previous project and, dont really want to sell it and buy another on so just wondering can you fit it into an r34 gtt>? or even if the casings are different are the centers interchangeable? any info would be appreciated
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