gtrken

Kym, that was run in full shootout as per all our dyno runs. We tune them first and then look at the final number, not work to get an artificially high number. That is absolutely the highest *stock* type R33 we have had on here by about 25rwhp. had us scratching our heads and what is weirder is that the stock injectors are only about 80-85% duty cycle and it's running stock fuel pressure. All our findings in the past have said that is not possible on stock type management , ie. not Wolf .(That is not an attack at Wolf btw . ) Cheers Ken

Congrats to you two. Nice to meet you today Anna and hope your happy with the tune on the Line. That is one strangely quick R33 you have there Scott. Cheers Ken

Email sent. Cheers Ken

Varies in time Price is $600-800 depending if we have to put a board in or not. That includes however much dyno time to get it right, subject to the vehicle being in sound condition. Cheers Ken

Simon, did you screw the computer back in properly?? rofl. Sorry people, bit of an inhouse joke.. SAFC will only change fuel and in some instances you would have to compromise timing due to the inability to adjust. Rechip is the same as having an aftermarket ECU but without the wanky screen, playability of other aftermarket ecu's. If your tuner is good there should be no reason to have to play with tune after the job is done. Cheers Ken

Alas, once again I won't be there But Doug #828# will have another go and trying to finish in my old car. Let's hope he gets through Mt Arrowsmith this time... Cheers Ken

LH side of the block, under the turbos, is a number cast into the block about 1/2 way down which reads 05U. That is a std block, N1 should read 24U Cheers Ken

Gav , not totally essential. There is an aerial in the rear glass as well and the radio picks its signal from whichever is the stronger . May mean your radio reception is a bit patchy but at least you will still have a radio Rhianne. Mind you, who listens to the crap on the radio these days anyway Cheers Ken

He sold it and bought a GTR. As usual the gyro gearloose has been trying the bang for your buck cheap mods.. :) Cheers Ken

No problem, happy to help. Nope, that GTR was about 4 ago. Think it was the one I turned into a Targa car, then sold to a client . It is no 828 in this years targa tas. Cheers ken

Well done Rep and good to see you using the local boys down there. I know that Peter Blight has nothing but good things to say about George and his patience with getting it right. Ohh and Maytech, who who get a lot more business if he realised most peoples working days are 8 till 5 , not 5 till 2 in the morning . lol Dare I ask who the lawyer involves or is it probably someone I already know? Cheers ken

R32 GTR's in good nick are ok but there aren't many of those around. Unless you have the money for insurance and engine rebuild, stick with a GTS-T. RB26 engines are race orientated motors that from Japan especially will need some reasonable work on them at around 120-140,000 km due to poor servicing, gone through a few hands and been thrashed by everyone. A good , genuine low km, Jap import with proven history will cost you over 30K these days. Having said that, we have a client with an Oz delivered one with 230,000km on the clock and the engine is fine ( stand up rev 210 ). Cheers Ken

Around 150-160 psi on a stock 100,000km old one would be good. Eveness is more important and we have seen some with as little as 135psi still be fine but it was dead even on every cylinder. You are looking for a variation of no more than 10% and if at all worried , get a cylinder leakage test done which will tell you where the compression is going. Cheers ken

No, you have rose jointed caster arms so there is no provision for extra adjustment bushes. Typical figure on a good one is around 5 ish deg neg. Have seen up to 7 but that was with low profile tyres and special caster rods that extra thread machined in. The more caster( within reason ) , the more the steering wheel will come back to self centre quickly and the *nervousness* that sometimes occurs on patchy roads is diminished. Setting up a GTR for track is tricky and there are lots of variables involved including ride height, toe settings, spring rates, sway bar settings, tyre pressures etc but camber and caster are 2 of the more important angles needed for a well handling, quick to turn in and balance GTR. Word for the wise is not to go too big on wheel size/wheel offset as the GTR's don't like having the big offsets that put wheels against the outer lip of the guards. They will tramline and steering wheel pull something terrible on rough bitumen or on wet and puddle filled roads. Cheers Ken

As much caster as you can wind on without wearing out the plastic inner guards. Camber is non adjustable unless you have some bushes but if so, approx 1.5deg neg will give a good compromise between tyre wear/handling. For track work with comp style tyres I run 2.5deg and for wanners 3deg neg. Cheers Ken

Whiteline suspension sell top arm bushes which have about a 1deg adjustment. We supply and fit them for $300 but Perth is probably a bit far to travel Cheers Ken

Price? ( which is required or the mods will lock the thread ) Cheers ken

Maybe Omori ??

XR6T = 189rwkw or 256rwhp( I think) on a dyno dynamics computer in Shootout. We have done 6 or so of them in std form and all get around that , give or take 5rwkw or so. Fit a Nizpro stage 2 kit which is bolt on, run it at 12psi and 400rwhp and enough torque to kill the std new clutch inside 2,000km. Not a fan of the build quality but a long stroke 4litre engine with oodles of midrange makes for a fun ride.. Cheers Ken

The camber will change slightly with ride height and the diff in camber is probably tied in with how you bent it the original coilover... You need adjustable top arms or at the least, adjustable top arm bushes from Whiteline. Cheers Ken

Caster. As much as you can wind on and not hit the front of the guards. Camber. neg 1.5 to neg 2.5 if you don't care about inside tyre wear Toe 1mm total toe in Rear Camber neg 1.5 toe 0 to 1mm total toe in Tyres Bridgestone RE55 For full blown track racing, add another 1 deg neg to the front. Cheers Ken

Oooh oooh , Duncan. Put me down for one as my GTR will hopefully be here in about a month. For those who haven't driven with a torque split controller in the wet, they are brilliant. Had a HKS one in my Targa GTR and it makes a big difference to the balance and control on unknown wet, slippery. scary roads... I believe you can't get the HKS ones for R32's anymore but that is no excuse to raise the price Cheers Ken

I won the Speed Event Series 2 years ago in a GTR and I will be back. With the amount of motorsport avaliable at the present moment , there is not enough w/ends spare plus as mentioned, for the average Skyline owner it is a bit expensive. When there was very little motorsport at the club level it was popular but now with MC, drifting etc as mentioned by Denver, people tend to be a bit fussier. Cheers ken

Glad you like it Mitchell. Told you they were good and for the rest of the peoples, the only reason it was $1K is that a s/hand flywheel and bolts were needed as his original one was designed for a single OS Giken. Cheers Ken

Use the 9 puck cushioned button ceramic from extreme. Have fitted and sold heaps of them and are a very good, progressive clutch that your mum could drive but will bite when launched. We have them in everything from RB silvia's in drifting to GTR's with 400rwhp and they work well. Cheers ken