r33_racer

That is about 8 tenths of a thou which should iron out with the torque plate on to some degree and should with the head on, however...... The next issue is whether or not the machinists torque plate accurately simulates the stresses that the head creates.

My one works out to be 3352.8cc. With a 87mm bore though. Depends on bore size really.

lol

That is correct. It was reduced to 94mm for clearancing issues. Alot of people were scared about having to take to their block with a die grinder to remove material.

Full boost by 3700rpm on a gt35r? That is the first I have ever heard of that on a rb26!

Forget what measurement you are getting with the block relaxed. Torque your head down with head gasket in place and then check the bore size from the bottom end with your dial bore gauge. That is the only real way to check it, as it is the closest you will get to seeing how much bore distortion there really is when the block is stressed. If the machinist was any good it should be no more then 0.0002" out of round. Bore taper should be much the same. Out of round bore will only increase blow by and oil consumption. A round bore with the correct cross hatch is one of the most important things in an RB. It is one of the main contributing factors in the "oil blowing out your catch can" drama that so many people have had the fun of experiencing lol.

The amount of clearancing is piddly squat. Only the first three cylinders where the oil tube runs and then a little around the base of the bore on each cylinder. It is quite the small job!

lol sorry mate i missed that part! Must have been half asleep when I was reading that! Ignore my silly post.

lol think its time for a chat soon mate! Its been a while! However I was over in europe for the last month on holidays! Only been back for a few weeks. Back to the dry sump stuff. The speedway guys typically run filters on the rocker covers to let air. So eitherway will work.

The lifters will be fine. Just use the correct oil restrictors. We converted our r33 s2 head to solids and I made two 1.1mm restrictors using m8 grub screws. Has worked fine so far. This is on a spool rb34 stroker also. As they said already you just need to cc your chambers and get the pistons to suit so your compression doesnt go sky high. Otherwise no worries! Be prepared for a nice fat torque and power curve. From our old rb30 our whole power curve moved to the left by a good 1000rpm and we picked up something like 160hp more through the midrange. Makes the car so much nicer to drive.

It looks like a bunch of capping runs. Or do you just weave as your welding style?

The common way is to seal up the motor totally apart from a vacuum regulator and then vent the tank to a catch/overflow can with a breather setup on it.

That is crazy hot. Looks like someone took to it with the oxy! I wouldn't be surprised if its something silly like a tooth out on timing belt. Its either super lean or highly retarded.

That will have plenty of clearance so long as your head hasn't been decked a million times. We have run up to 10.2mm lift with 9:1 pistons and a head skimmed numerous times and pistons at 0 deck height.

The new split pulse 6boost manifold with twin 40mm compgates we run on our car was not difficult to fit at all. I actually have alot more access then I was expecting! Rb30det in r33 gtst though whether that makes much difference. No abs either which no doubt helps abit.

I see a cooI air intake. It's got a NOS fogger system and a T4 turbo I see an AIC controIIer. It has direct port nitrous injection Yeah. And a stand-aIone fueI management system

Yeh the conrod side faces. Same trick used by honda f1 back in the turbo era. Argo I beam rods have the notches in the sides to direct oil up towards the bore. Im not disputing what you are saying. Just saying there are alot of people with no oil squirters who dont even realise the difference, and there are people who do and dont realise the difference. Maybe in your NA engine it is more pronounced.

Alot of them have the notch on the conrod side faces to direct the spraying oil up the bore and onto the piston/small end area. But then again alot of engines dont have oil squirters and dont have issues. No doubt a buttload of rb30's running around without oil squirters and dont have det issues either.

Our debt collector is a chick and she got money out of Brett Stevens the useless carnt. If they have money there is a good chance you can get it. If not, well you might only get a portion of whats owed. If only everyone was legitimate when doing business! Good luck to everyone! Hope you get your money returned..

You can readily get 4" to 3" concentric reducers. You can use one of them and trim it down to suit the 3.5" tube. Any stainless steel supplier will have them, i.e Midway Metals, Fagersta or the like.

Scott, For a gt35r and gtx3076r. Yeh, they are quite close together and right under the turbine housing. Just requires abit more planning. Nothing too major.

Stainless and mild steel is much the same. You wouldnt really notice the difference. Our old dump pipe after 3-4 years service and several modications was all rusted out on the inside. Was paper thin in several spots! The new stainless one should last considerably longer!

The manifold wont crack, even without flex joints. Though it is definitely a good thing to have them. I usually put the flex pipe in after the v band just after the dump pipe. Though 4" flex pipes from truck shops cost about $120! We are running a split pulse 6boost too which I've been slowly building the exhaust for. The wastegate positioning is a little difficult to work around thats for sure Scotty! Dump pipe so far.

You had a chance to play with your new kemppi yet Ariel? We just got that same one at work a month ago. Its half the size of the old Kemppi (6 years old) and it has more features and can spit out another 30 amps! Its a great machine!

Beautiful. Plenty of clearance. Are you using some kind of external regulator for those two feeds so you can control the oil flow to the head via pressure adjustment? Or just running larger orifice restrictors inline somewhere that can be changed easily enough? Say like a pill holder on the return side of a mechanical fuel system?