r33_racer

bah aquaplanning....just overinflate your tyres, 40psi or abit more so the tyre balloons, that will solve the wet weather driving problems.

so no one has heard of the dont leave your car in the same spot for longer then a few mins after coming off the track after a race. Need to move the car a few inches forward or back so the heat isnt concentrating on the same spot of the rotor. Id say you came off possibly after breaking or breaking while coming off and then sat in the litter for however long with the breaks stuck on the same spot and it was too much concentrated heat.

i think he has some major traction issues now...if he tried i reckon it could nail first three easy. That charger really seems to kick it in the ass down low to get it all started. It looks and sounds wild as from that video.

insane........that acceleration...unbelievable.

your not the first person to get that advice...i was told the same thing.

I believe 6boost kyle pushes the Mr turbo turbos. Reckons they are great. Having a wide option of setups is great for sure.

probably not, so long as the sump isnt swimming in air.

air/oil seperators have been around for ages...old idea, most performance places should know of them or have them available to buy. Obviously the whole point of doing the oil mods is to solve the problem rather then making a bandaid fix which is what everyone seems to want to do. So far to date no one has had any long term problems with doing the mods, so obviously its not that bad. If it is im sure we will know about it when someone starts experiencing some problems. Weve had ours running in the race car for around 5-6 months so far with no dramas. But im sure time will tell.

all you mexicans are crazy There i said it ok, i said it! What about on slicks and you've invested alot in your engine and you dont wanna take the risk of spinning something or starving something of oil, then a proper extended baffled sump is a much better option then just overfilling by 1L. Ideally a dry sump setup would be nice. Sooner or later someone only doing the bare minimum will suffer. Depends on how 'built' a motor actually is and how well they've done the required mods to allieviate the oil issues. Call me crazy, and i dont know about many others racing gtsts or gtrs up here but i dont have any problems at all either. Funnily enough i like having 8-9litres of oil in my engine and sump rather then 4-5l. Helps in other ways rather then just constantly submerging the pickup at anyone time on the track. P.S incase anyone decides to say it....I like being a bananabender!

haha your a whinger josh. Its also rediculously hard to get into the event. The old fogeys keep this one closed shop just like the wharfies do at the port.

And the back straight usually yields higher speeds. Isnt it just a wire to cut to eliminate the 180 speed restriction.

We had a std rb25 one on previously...But at that stage we kept the revs to 7k...I dont know exactly how bad the harmonic issue is at 7500, but we had just built a 10k+ 25/30, not interested in taking chances and we needed the extra revs, so the 1000hp ati damper went on as a safe guard. All the research done on them basically said that ATI know what they are doing and their information seemed to make logical sense, plus everyone i spoke to about them had said they are the best around. When the time comes for the annual pull down and rering of the engine, we will inspect everything closely...especially the oil pump and bearings.

haha ok..sorry i stand corrected then...5 out of the 6...DAMN...thats bad!

For national you need at least 2 layer suit. Ive found my new sparco to be alot more comfortable then the old erg one i shared with my old man. I think the stuff has got to be FIA approved. My new sparco suit is upto FIA 2000 stds. Sparco Sprint series.

you would think they would notice the wheelspin on the dyno.

I thought he meant only 5 and 6 were detonating, thus the melted and ally covered plugs in the pic. But it could have easily been due to leaning out and its what caused the detonation and high temps.

stock long block??? Good tuning you reckon?

will do. Should be good. Also good to see a few people out from SAU.

if it doesnt come off after any normal removal methods we just drill a few holes inline along half of it and tap it a few times and it just cracks through...bingo. Here in aus its about 40 bucks for a brand new one.

locating pin...are you refering to the half moon keyway? Thats hard to imagine. The keyway to shear in half and let the damper spin. Can also get an ATI one for about $800-$900. They are rated pretty good from just about everyone. I believe we got ours from Wholesale Performance at Slacks Creek.

Hes probably gonna have some nice chips out of the crowns of those pistons, probably off the exhaust side. When the heat gets too high the coatings can come off any of the fancy plugs, especially if you regap them yourself. coppers for the win.

As usual, i shall be out there. A r33 is the weapon im packing. After modifying the brand new Ikeya Formula lower control arms we can now achieve the camber were after without the steering binding up to help the understeer and well water/meth injection on and the bigger puffer should see more power and less knock. More so worried about the knock now coming into summer.

yup its good if you retune using that fuel....we use it in the race car and its better then any 98 octane fuel weve tried before it came out. Seriously who gives a shit about the name of the fuel...fuels fuel, they can call it whatever they want if its better then the low octane 'super lamo race fuel' ill use it regardless.

Ive never seen anyone in a skyline do something that stupid...only tossers in commos and utes for some reason. Maybe im just not lucky enough. Had a bunch of tossers in a vc commo throw a bottle of water at me and my mate a few years back whilst driving. Extremely lucky it missed us...could have crashed if it hit my mate while driving. It was a 1.25l coke bottle full of water. Wouldnt be suprised if they had a whole bunch of em and were throwing them at other people whilst doing their commo thing when out cruising on a friday night.

plus plugs and seals and most other bits that would need replacing as everything in the short block is going to be about 20 years old.