r33_racer

adjust rear suspension, whether spring rates, swaybar settings adjust ride height possibly try some larger rear tyres if budget can allow it try to power on a little later on in the corner exit different gearing if possible, try a gear up whilst exiting a corner if ratio and power is too low and high for that particular corner If you change to stockos you will only ruin your times everywhere then which is no fun. Try to change your cars setup to aid in faster corner exits or try and play with your driving style and see what works and what doesnt.

Yeh tetley told us about it a few weeks ago at the last Top gear at QR. Said hopefully by may next year we will be racing there doing sprints and proper racing again. Im not fussed over who got the rights to it, the fact that there is now another track going to be available to race on is awesome and so close to. Running at just QR and MP can get abit mundane unless you want to travel further. All in all its excellent news. Im looking forward to it. Its only 10 mins away from work here at Brendale.....hooray

I am so coming round one day to check that whole lot out. It is looking almighty fine so far.

if your rims are balanced with lead weights when you get new tyres fitted to them, after some racing when the rims get extroadinarily hot from the all the laps plus the high speeds they can fly off and then your wheels go out of balance and you get vibrations through the steer. So racing trick is to stick some 100mph tape over them to hold them onto the rims Though slicks with all the peel build up will also cause vibrations until it runs off as well incase anyone is running full slicks and cant work out why they are getting steering vibrations with their lead still attached. After a lap or two it runs off on its own so if your too lazy to rub it all off then no dramas. We also use the octane booster, but it only drops our knock by about 10 points, but it also depends on how much you get normally from the tune. So obviously it will vary from car to car. Weve been using the Martini one.

100mph tape over your balancing lead. Vibrations can take your confidence out of the car. With semi slicks we used to run 26psi cold. After a few laps they would grow to about 32-35psi. This will happen easily in summer obviously cause of higher ambient temp and track temp. Cooling efficiency is of the utmost importance especially in summer, so think logical as to what is going to get hammered by the heat in your engine bay: wiring, i/c hoses, water, oil and vacuum hoses/lines. People with aftermarket management, chances are in the heat knock may and probably will starts occuring so if you can be aware of the engine warning light or handcontroller be prepared to retard ignition timing a few degrees to help save those rings/pistons. Last thing you want to do is push your car to limit safely on the track and it starts rattling because the tune is near the limit. In my experience so far whatever the highest knock was on the dyno whilst tuning, on the track it is about 30-40 higher!

a fine or coarse thread, not unf or unc as they are related to imperial thread types. If your not sure just remove the one from the other side and take that with you as has been suggested before. It would be interesting to know what grade the std suspension bolts are from the factory, cause we dont use anything less then 12.9 on the race car when fabbing something up or replacing other bolts and nuts. No one uses grade 4 anymore its piss weak, grade 8 is the new 4 and 10 the new 8. Overkill is a 12

paid for full day paul. Cheers.

currently only the boost kit that comes with the powerfc. We are looking towards an autronic in the near future, how i came across your chips whilst going around old posts. So current boost kit isnt that great.

so let me get this right. Your suggesting letting the turbo free spool with no spring control via the waste gate and controlling the boost/power purely by the pedal?

I believe i said this already mate "Ive found so far that foot control and patience is a big thing. Flat to the floor doesnt always work as well as you might think." In the process of learning that one mate, getting all the lead outta my boots Why the sarcastic comments?

Ive been through the 26 section before and seen the power figures...thats why i think its all bull. But i figured well just incase he has a heavier worked motor then say most others and thats why hes achieved that power or something out of the oridinary. Gav what power are the GTRS rated at? Obviously different dynos will give different power whether shootout mode or not and so on.

Im curious to know if what ive read and been told is bullshit or not. A bloke with a r33 gtst with a rb26 in it with alot of work done reckons with two hks gtxxxx or something arather rated at 360hp each can make 544rwkws or 730hp on a simple and conservative 1.2bar. Assume it has all supporting mods, mild camshafts(done @ tighe cams), std valves, port n polish(course finish, not polished), std manifolds in & out, a fairly thick metal hg, assume cr 8:1, running pump bp 98, motec m800. I admit my understanding on twin setups like those in gtrs im unfamiliar with but turbos are turbos regardless, to me that amount of power is not accurate. Can anyone explain it or explain their setups if similar and what power they make. Perhaps offer some explanation for it. Not only that but the car can do 1:14s around the national track @ QR and incase people dont know v8 supercars do 1:12-1:13's commonly with quickest time recorded a 1:10 by tander. Whether thats accurate or not i cant say, its only what ive heard. Im annoyed a little bit that the guy bagged our setup and why his is so perfect is what i want to know cause i cant see it being soo good. This is a information seeking mission but also venting my annoyance. Cheers.

traction...weve only got 500bhp atm and it doesnt exist. starts are shit, but when your moving its fine. Ive found so far that foot control and patience is a big thing. Flat to the floor doesnt always work as well as you might think. But were still working it all out. It will get better. Shane are you coming to the next track day on nov 28...cause i will be attending that, so if your there come and have a look at the car, or if your car is ready perhaps i can have a look at that

make sure the bolt has exactly the same amount of shank on it before the thread so its solidly secured all the way along until the thread comes out for the nut, which are crushed end lock nuts, not nyloc nuts. People refer to them as exhaust lock nuts as well. If you explain the situation to the bolt bloke im sure he will know what your on about to give you the right bolt. Only go to an industrial bolt and fastner place or bearing place to get the bolt and nut. Dont goto supercheap please.

well the blokes i was talking to about single piece and two piece make the tailshafts for stone brothers for their supercars. They had some chart with tech specs on it for single piece shafts and the amount of torque they can handle and driveline angles and so on...they didnt recomend one as they believed it to be weaker then the std two piece setup they have. Either way so long as its strong and doesnt vibrate then who cares. Though in most cases the weakest link in a tailshaft is the unis so big solid unis will almost always fix this. We have two loops on our r33, no problem with clearances or height.

Thats where the skills of a fabricator shines, being able to weld good even if the prep is shit or the job doesnt go together as good as it should. Preperation is 90% of the job.

Ive been told the samething about 1 piece shafts being harder to balance. Two piece shafts having the centre bearing not only make it stronger, but take any drivetrain misalignment out in smaller amounts by having two shorter shafts they are less prone to wobbles or vibrations because they dont cover any long distance. However they all should be balanced with counter weights after they are done. Depends who you goto as well. We had our first tailshaft rebuilt by one shop(wont say) who used dodgy unis and couldnt balance a tailshaft if their lives depended on it. So after i spat that one out, we went to Hardy Spicer and they made us another one and its been absolutely perfect with no vibrations and no tailshafts spitting out chromemoly shafts are expensive as cost about 2g. Wouldnt want to be spitting them out in a hurry all the time.

i thought the sards are 850cc? or are they 800's? Weve half fitted the water/methanol injection and got a to4z on the way. haha all these threads and people going on about to4z's and how good they are, plus the figures seem to be there. So hopefully here comes 600bhp with no knock very very big smiles.

running methanol you probably dont need an intercooler? In case anyone cares i didnt copy bbgtr...just posted at near same times.

sheep shaggin ecus dont float my boat!

same shittttttt jks Please just search within this thread, bottom on the left i believe big smiles

I only goto jamboree to watch a few runs...cause after i see 2 or 3 i get bored and well the chicks hold ya attention longer...however heaps of companies there showing their stuff for sale...get to look at turbos and other performance parts...research for race car....real racing not the kind that lasts for a few seconds like a 15yr old kid having his first root.

they are like 40bux brand new from nissan. Is that not cheap? But yes i think they are interchangeable.

rb25 head with n1 oil pump and one blocked off and 1.5mm in other and we have oil problems. Circuit racing is a bitch for exposing problems. oh and we have vct as well. Refer to the table from SK's oil control problems in rbs info.

I stand corrected then. I figured that since std pistons would give that so would the forged equivalents. Ahh well, my bad. But i agree use the CP's.