r33_racer

please put me down for both mate. A full day. Thanks.

except those pistons are suited for a rb30ET not DET. I think it will give a shithouse CR something like 7.1:1 its been said. You need the NA pistons to give a better CR around 8.2-8.5 or thereabouts.

turbos providing more air then the engine can ingest, so it does a u banger back to the turbo/s

ummm are you able to hold a spot cause i need some bloudy external transfer password...never sent money to an outside account before. Gotta wait 9-10 days before i get it...i dont want to miss a spot. Where abouts in Brisbane are you Paul?

well ill put down my opinion of jap spec tein HA's...pure crap. I even swapped spring rates down to something more sensible and it was still bloudy shocking. Poor design, poor setup with spring rates. Mind you this is for a track car, not road car. But ive had a set in my old sil80. Still the same problems though. Heres a little bit of real world difference. Race car with teins meant no weight transfer, so off the line wheelspin was enormous. Race car with no teins, replaced with SK's setup and actual weight transfer occuring saw the wheels get traction and then spit the tailshaft out. Moral is unless your wanting to drift or you just like a real stiff ride with lots of bumps and jolts then stay away from teins(cant talk about aus spec, dont know them yet). However if you want a good ride with good handling and a sporty feel try the bilstein group buy.

nothing...chances are they are just as hard and stiff as the other two models. Look at dampening and height adjustability between the models. What sort of power does your 2530 put out?

Dynos

obviously welding it would provide more strength and a permenant fixture...however if it needs to come out at somestage then its gonna be a bitch. Bolting might be the case then. Personally i would weld it in, but im a fabricator so im completely biased haha.

mmmmmm bling factor! 6pots are so sexual. So much more so then 4 pots. Damn ill trade ya...Alcons for APs?

could be a slight leak somewhere in the piping.

Well my guess is that the only way for us to increase the tyre grip any further would be to run a softer compound slick rather then the mediums were running now. But i think i could say that at the moment since our skyline isnt a road sort the brakes are well suited, and they still exceed the tyres grip as a lock up is still capable. ive got flat spotted slicks to prove that

Even if the old man says NO....im stealing the race car for the day and coming!!!!!!!! Not missing out on this. Racing with lots of japanese cars..i think i wet myself but im excited!

Interesting article. We got a alcon kit front and rear only 4potters, big 4 pots front and little 4 pots rear. We run full slicks and before our braking was only very average, now not even the little clubmans, super sport 400kg motorbike engine powered things can outbrake us. But being a 1000kgs heavier we just cant accelerate through the corner like they can I believe the only difference between the 6potters is bigger pad, better wear and less fade again, but they cost more. But big brakes with a good suspension setup surely will yield better results then std brakes with a good suspension setup...would it not? Weve found it like that so far.

Ditto...but different turbo and different boost

We went CP flat top pistons. But its upto you what pistons you want, to achieve whatever CR. Our tuner wanted us to go with a lower cr, while others tend to go for the higher cr. The view is the lower cr makes the car less responsive off boost, while the higher cr makes it more responsive. However depending on tuning the lower cr helps with less knock and allows more ignition advance and boost without the knock, while the higher cr helps with more low/midrange power but in alot of cases ends up with more knock....but it all comes down to the tuner in the end or so everyone says. Prob abit in it with fuel economy and other bits and pieces, but .5 difference is like either choosing to run rb26 cr or running rb25 cr...in the end its upto you cause its your engine your building. But then again it depends on what application your building this motor for.

rb30e and rb30et are virtually identical. One has lower compression then the other to suit a turbocharged state. However the na pistons are better as they provide a higher CR, where as the turbo pistons give too lower CR. Rods and crank are all the same, blocks are also. Only difference is the series model, one has blanked off holes for oil and water feed for turbo and the other has tapped holes to suit but with bungs in them if NA. If it helps we used a series 2 NA block. I should also add that you should read the guide it might answer some questions you may have.

Cheaters....A job is only as good as the prep! Well thats what the tafe teachers taught us haha. Sometimes ya just too lazy or in a rush to care about cleaning or prep...as stated just crank up the amps and lay into it (not on chassis though). Pretend your working on excavation equipment God i love spray arc

by arc your referring to stick welding, mig is good for alot of continous welding and probably the easiest to master and tig is for fine work, typically alot of automotive/race fab is done with a tig, but is alot harder and takes quite a while before the quality and appearance is upto standard. Your best bet atm would be a mig of somesort, probably gasless cause that saves you the cost of hiring a gas bottle from boc. But ive never used a gasless mig before so i cant comment on its ability and the rest. In welding the gas keeps the welding area free from oxygen which causes porosity and significantly weakens the welded joint, all industrial welders, migs will use gas typically argoshield universal or light, which is a mix of argon, co2 and o2. The gasless mig will probably have something like a flux in the wire similar to stick which will protect the weld area with a coating which will stop porosity from occuring. I can say welding is an important skill as you can fab up alot of stuff yourself, but for what you need to weld up its a pretty touchy area the chassis, if your not fully aware of what your doing or what to do you could make a bigger mess of it then what you started with. For that i would get someone to do that repair, but you can always learn for the future. Hopefully enough of that makes sense.

Yup...its the endurance setup i think...with backup pumps and all. Nothing wrong with a mechanical fuel pump, if anything its reliable seeing no electrics with it, well except whats in the boot. Lovely setup for something thats 14-15 years old. From what SK was saying i think they were around the 600bhp mark originally until they were forced tune it down and add weight - unfortunately thats the disadvantage of being too quick Yeh the cylinders one feeds fuel and the other equalises the tank pressure so you can get fuel in as quick as possible, time is everything.

The tower sees all. As always corner exit speeds greatly affect times and straight line speeds. Paul are all the times upto date? Do you run in the sprints or Top gear at QR? or anything else for that matter? Also do you have a relative with your last name thats a mechanic and in their mid to late 40's or would you be by any chance? haha or am i way way off?

Car Make and Model: R33 Skyline S2 Circuit Name: Queensland Raceway Lap time: Sprint 57.25, National 1:19.70 Modifications Engine: RB25/30 Power: not enough Suspension: SK's stuff Tyres: Dunlop slicks Brakes: Usual 4 spotters Body weight: about 1400kg with driver and fuel.

turn 1 is like a 160-180km corner depending on the line taken...best ive gone through on semi slicks and lame tein suspension at about 150 down from about 200odd. My old man tried it at 220 when we got new slicks on....his confidence was greatly misplaced. Funny to watch a r33 doing a gazillion 360 spins.

The other problem with the people who hang out in maccas car parks is you dont get near as much street cred for doing racing/skids or the like in a competition or at a track then what you do on the street infront of the cops and rest of the public, cause shit man that stuff really counts when your ultimate goal in life is to be cool. Admittedly it will attract the more sensible folk who would be interested in something like that, but the general 'bogan' population with only half a brain will still be out there ruining the 'car enthusiasts' image. But the real reason why the falcadoore drivers stick to their carpark antics is because they know they wont do anygood on the track:P Would you trade ultimate street cred coolness for mass shame?? Im all for your ideas mate and I hope it all goes to plan, cause something is better then nothing. Im behind it all the way. We need more revheads...sorry car and motorsport enthusiasts in government.

Well they are 20 thou over....the 0.50 is the oversize measurement. Havent you got a spec sheet with the pistons when you bought them? Or cant you get them from the suppliers website? That will have all the info you need about the piston inorder to work out your CR, more importantly you need your head cc and headgasket thickness. Head cc should be about 64cc i think.

ahh would be mad if someone did do it...would be sweet for drifting, braking drift or whatever they call it. Would mess up the brake biases bigtime with such large calipers on the rear hehe