r33_racer

Nice write up on the car and it looks the goods too. With all those rebuilds and work done it must owe you quite abit. Also a 58 around the sprint circuit isnt bad for a street reg car, thats very respectable.

Well a water injection kit of $850 once off and then its just the fluids costs which isnt much. As opposed to say buying 110 octane race fuel every race meet. Tell me which one would you buy and use and think is cheaper. I know one weekend of racing for us using 110 race fuel is not far off the price of the whole kit. I honestly dont believe it is always totally masking the real problem, though im not saying it cant be used that way. Your car can be tuned to as good as it can get with your setup and anymore boost or ign advance would see too much knock and all conventional measures result is no reduction of it, then especially for a racing application its a relatively safe and cheap way of keeping knock down for safety or to allow for more power.

definitely in for the next one in november. Looks like mad fun, plus more skylines out there. Be able to get the race car out and mix it up with you guys. Im excited just thinking about it....woot. Just for comparison what sort of sprint times are you guys doing?

Eliminates any chance of oil surge, lets you hold more oil and removes crank case pressure which results in a slight increase of hp . Its perfect for circuit racing as the oil is totally controlled so to say. Depending on the setup though if you did it yourself then it would probably only cost 2-3grand maybe if you can source parts well and that would include you making the bracketry and all the lines and so forth. If you get someone else to do it, i think a price i heard from a bloke at the track was about 6-7grand.

Why would you have to fit it into a stock engine bay? Ive seen race cars with dry sump setups spread out through the car to suit weight distribution and the problem of space limitations. You can spread it out abit if its a dedicated track car...a road reg car well... why would you even bother doing all that work to a road registered car anyway?

You wont notice the difference in performance...technically the 18's will have a larger overall rolling circumfrence which means you will have slightly slower acceleration but a higher top speed. But like i said you probably wont even notice it.

Hey Paul what times do you guys run around the National circuit and sprint circuit? Just curious to see if were going to be put to some major shame haha.

very noice

Cubes i know where your coming from and concur fully. I wish everyone else would live by that also. It might save someone some heartache or it might not. Why would you not play it safe now when you easily can? Collars are cheap and readily available. Well i know JUN ones have come down in price too cause im pretty sure we got ours from Hi-Octane for like 200odd bux. Unless its a proengines one named a 'JUN' crank collar.

I would say the same also. Oil is important, especially in a performance application. But the problem is not everyone can afford to get it done, they want a budget motor which might blow up in the future. I dont understand why people do that...why not just build it right the first time....makes me remember the saying "Measure twice, cut once".

Yep just like forged pistons arent required, or conrods or new bearings or new pumps or a steel headgasket or anything else that might improve the quality of the motor. You build to suit the application...you wouldnt build a bodgy motor and expect it to hold 400rwkws reliably would you or even 300rwkws? Build to suit is all i can say.

you probably over rev matched and instead of matching at say 3500rpm you went 5000rpm which would make it worse and cause the compression lock up.

8mm studs....too small. Id use a minimum of 10mm. Hope they dont break on you later on down the track.

Our race engine was about 10k, but we built it ourselves. So not that much...people are doing budget builds for about 2k however if you go forgies its prob not a budget build anymore, should be good for 300rwkws easily. RB30det guide = free! Series 2 short block in good nick = $50 - $200 Pistons ACL, CP, other... = $1000-$1500 Bigend/Conrod bearings ACL = $150 Headgasket Cometic/ACL = $250-$300 Machining..decking, welshplugs, Modify head drill hole for vct if any and modify water gallery for headgasket seal, possibly hole for tensioner if you cant do it yourself = $1000 Collar and oil pump = $600 (dont have to do this, but i would) Possibly aftermarket plenum for height issue or you can raise your bonnet or drop motor down when refitting engine. Assembly yourself would be free by someone else cheapest ive seen is about $800. I think thats it....whats that total..about $3750 with all extremes call it $4000 with assembly $4800-$5000. So thats just your motor to replace the rb25. No power mods. Thats what i would call a basic rebuild abit better then a budget build. But doing the niggly little things in the guide yourself helps with price. Anyone feel free to correct me or prices if they feel they arent 'fair'. Im in qld but i wouldnt think prices would vary greatly from state to state.

Ahh yeh thats good. Yes i know where your coming from cubes with that point. I guess i was thinking it was more a way of educating people on here about it so they could give it ago themselves or else they wont learn at all but i understand that a certain percentage of people just dont have any mechanical feel at all and couldnt do it even if they half grasped the concept. I think i just want to overpopulate every nissan with a rb30 hybrid, get more combinations out there, which will mean more information about setups and the like. So rather then just everyone using a gt35/40 they will try out different setups and see the results in comparison to their old 20/25/26. The rb30 has the same wear as well if not worse. When i pulled down our rb30 the drive and gear had a massive bite mark where it was wearing from the drive pressure, there would have had to have been about 40thou of slop between the flat and then when the gear actually engaged on the wear mark. It was nasty to look at, and originally we were gonna use the rb25det pump and the std drive, im glad we didnt especially since its a race car.

You can always do the lap dashes or sprints or as R31Nismoid said, do club organised days. Generally without a roll cage, kill switch and basic safety measures you wont be able to do much actual racing against other cars as such. Generally roll cages need to comply with cams specs....that normally rules out alot of japanese bolt in cages as the material is wrong, and size is wrong also...need to be aware of that incase you rush out and get one and find its not upto the cams specs. It seems normally that a roll cage is what holds alot of people back because they cost a bit and you need modify the interior abit to have them there plus it normally nullifies the use of the rear seat if its a reg car.

Man im glad someone understood it then. I think with all this information and still uncertainty with certain areas regarding the build im sure more info could be added to the guide that could clarify certain things for people, because it seems everyone doesnt wanna read through all the pages anymore. Dunno why? I did it. Took me the better part of a week after work every night.

Easiest way for you to understand is to take apart the old rb30 motor and look at it. You will notice that there is a considerable wear mark on the crank drive and also on the gear itself on the pump. Because the drive surface area is so small it tends to bite into the gear and places all drive pressure onto that small surface. By using the JUN OR OTHER collar you are increasing the drive surface area of the crank to the same or a similiar size as the gear in the oilpump. This spreads an even load of drive force across the pump gear as to not direct it into a small point where it will eventually crack and break through the gear and damage if not destroy your beautiful new engine. The various pumps you can use have different size gears. The collars are made to suit typically a gtr pump 33 or onwards, N1 pumps(most typical) or any other aftermarket oil pump eg. Tomei, JUN, blah blah blah. Part of the cracking is not purely because of the crank gear drive, the pumps small gear which varies in size in different engine model oil pumps can also be held accountable. The rb30 pumps are capable of failing as is any rb pump, i would think that typically old age is a big thing, and the fact that they just seem undersized for a performance application...especially if you compare them to an aftermarket or n1 pump. Geez i hope all that crap made sense...

Id imagine by changing the studs, or cant the std ones come out of the casting? Probably be an aftermarket one if not.

This is the difference of the two drives. I think even for a standardish build, oil pump and collar are a must. Because it seems that alot of people seem to have the oil pump failing problem. Whether its the gear breaking, or screws coming loose from vibrations or just old age. Since its sort of an essential item to the overall life of an engine it should be considered with more importance.

they are a common prick of a thing...i broke god knows how many in my old sil80 with a ca. Gave up on the thing and put an rb20 in it instead Need to keep the pivot point greased up all the time and that the spacing is spot on and no excess pressure is being applied to flex the drive.

Its normally there from factory. Same on the rear caps. Well when i stripped my 25 head down there was silastic there. Can only assume on a rb26 it would be the same if not similar.

Hes right, ABS is for your missus falcon or commo...not a performance car, i cant stand the feel of it when its actually working, i dont have abs and ive never flat spotted a tyre in the last 4-5 years of driving. Also a 95 is a series 1.5 not series 2. By the sounds of it, he probably doesnt have abs, maybe he will learn to get a better feel for the brake pedal.

yup...your an idiot if your gonna go cheap on such an important part of the car. Fully working brakes are actually rather integral to the slowing down and stopping motion when driving a car believe it or not....ha who would have thought? If they're not sure and you dont know jack...safest option is to get it done. If it were me, which it isnt, if i had it off and it wasnt leaking i would still get it rebuilt. Ya never know.

SK setup FTW!