r33_racer

DYNO A says he has 170rwkws DYNO B says he has 200rwkws DYNO C(and my favourite) says he has 500rwkws And bragging rights goes to the bloke who uses DYNO C...... I could only crack a good 170-180rwkws on a rb25 with those mods except i had a powerfc. Need to remember every place you goto will yield a different power. Some accurate and some others not so accurate.

I wouldnt go so far to say that our tracks are in better condition then our roads....Its true coilovers suit the track rather then road, but thats more for height/ corner weight adjustment not so you can run super stiff springs because thats what you get in a jap spec coilovers.

correct. Suited for use with aftermarket or N1 oil pumps. Bigger gear, bigger drive, alot better. For our rb30 crank we got PLR at Brendale to do it for us, cost like $80 bux i think, to machine the crank and countersink grub screws and fit collar. Got it back after a day or two.

Not much left to try. If it hasnt been done already, i would go for reco on the master cylinder. Or get some -toe on rear to help drive it straight. Did you end up checking the rear tie rods from the HICAS lock bar. Im guessing your kit uses the std arms and rods also? If its not geometry, then it sounds like the front brakes arent working as good as they should, but the backs are. Process of elimination. Your car will be in top shape by the time you sort out this problem

go the rb30det conversion.

yup 6boost!

why dont you swap injectors? Move no2 to say no3 and vice versa and see if the problem moves to cylinder 3... Why are you bumping the fuel pressure up so high? You running an aftermarket turbo, trying to do a manual tune on it so you can run higher boost? Or is it knocking or something?

technically cutting your springs is the cheapest option, because you can do it yourself. But it aint the safest option. Just look at some super low king springs or something like that, only a few hundred bux for a full set.

WORD!

Shane if that bloke told you not to do the oil return from the back of the head....hes an idiot. We didnt do all the modifications as SK had stated in the guide, because my old man is so farking worried about oil starvation for the top end, well bingo we have oil problems houston! We did the oil return from the back of the head, not full size though, blocked off the rear feed and put a 1.5mm in the front when it should have been a 1mm and we didnt oversize or shape the return holes to the sump. So now we have to run a pump from our 4.5l catch can to the sump to help get the oil back into the motor, so we dont lose it everywhere. Not saying yours might be like that, but ours is and i believed SK and my old man didnt and now until we pull it down for rebuild and more mods, we have to put up with that problem with our bandaid fix. I hope your setup doesnt yield the same problems as ours.

or conversely shanef is doing one for his 32 gtr. Perhaps he can clarify what he has done to his motor, as i think hes chasing some massive power lvl also. I believe his motor is done hes just waiting on that adapter plate.

How do school kids find this site? Shouldnt they be buying a gemini or cortina for their first car. At least it would be one less import to be wrecked.

as far as i know with the normal top gear sunday racing there are no restrictions...just your usual safety stuff. You could have a 1000hp car...wouldnt matter. God knows a 450kw atw gtr would probably be slow...thats 600 at the wheels...normally 600-700 at the fly is max.

you can go upto 300rwkws so long as tuning is spot on....no problems.

I can second brakes from SBC, good ole sbs pads dual carbons upfront and carbon ceramics down back. Work very nicely, though this is on a alcon package all round.

haha yes 4 thou sounds better, i thought fark 1mm clearance..something not right there. Yeh we ran 0.0020" with the cp's and no conrod oil squirters just relying on splash and shes fine, no slap either. al_r33 what clearances were run with the forged pistons that were put in? And do you have the spec sheet that came with your forgies? Maybe the clearances are way too sloppy and thats why your compression is shitty, power shitty and blowby in excessive amounts??? if thats occurring?

I just pulled down my rb25 for a rebuild...and when i was checking the compression, i accidently left the oil feed line hanging above cylinder 6....and after checking the first 5 cylinders oil pressure had built up enough to ooze out and straight down no.6 spark plug...well 165 across the board then 240 odd in no.6 lol. First thing i thought of that maybe they did the same thing...however the oil feed on a std turbo is a steel line, so yeh...not sure on that one. Cubes why do you have such large clearance? What was the spec sheet clearance for your Wiesco's?

why is your cold compression so low? The temperature doesnt affect it too much...its whether its wet or dry that affects the compression dramatically. But that compression should be around what 160-170. What thickness headgasket did you put in it, std nissan one 1.2mm? atm my money is on the low compression.

Yeh my old man does all the racing out at qr in our race r33. I just do the cams stuff...so it would have been my old man that you seen....i honestly wouldnt know if ive met you at qr before because there are so many damn rexs there, but it is possible. Ill have a chat with him about it, cause im sure he would love to get away from the stupid killa cars...i will let you know as its only a few weeks away. We just done abit of work to the beast, i believe we may give you and the rest of the rexs a run for your money Our car is the one in my avatar. Will let you know whether we change or not. update* ok looks like were joining that class now. Ill email that bloke and get it happening. Looking forward to it. Cheers mate

We found alcons to be the dux nuts on our r33 Cost less then those two kits you listed.

if you already do the top gear stuff will we will be in the normal sports cars class or will we automatically go into the new JDM class?

well the petrol thing isnt...we had a similar problem in our race rb25det except the rings were shagged and the compression was down, regardless if they were all down the same or within a certain amount it was still happening, petrol in the catch can, not just oil. I cant see another way of it bypassing and getting into the catch can.

too much knocking or something else has caused your rings to lose their tension and petrol is bypassing them and its going round with the oil.

280 wide 680high dunlop slicks on a 9 1/2" rim piece of piss, even looks square and non bulgy and we have 265 on 9" no worries either.

If it breathes 20% more, then naturally you would think a base of 20% increase would be needed, at least.