r33_racer

Yeh well i would look at the actual tie rods and see if there is any play in them. Might be a good place to start. Jack up the front end and try and wobble the wheel without actually turning or moving it, see if it moves in its place.

gtst's fit into 2a sports cars GTRs just cheating with your 4wheel drive and ya twin turbos...straight out 5 speed box, to a mech diff to two rear wheels, nice and simple. Will more information come about in the future without personally persueing the matter as im lazy...hehe

also its not a balancer, its a damper. It has nothing to do with the internal balancing of the engine components within. It simply sits on the end and absorbs harmonic vibrations and converts that energy into heat as its absorbs through the rubber rings that are within the hub. A balancer implies that it is essential to have on the motor as the whole engine would be out of balance internally without it, a damper can be off the motor and it would still retain a 'balanced' state, however the shocks and vibrations would sure as shit kill everything. I think alot of old style motors have true balancers eg. many v8's from the day. Also you would most definetely need an aftermarket damper such as the ATI one when your are pushing the factory engine past its reliable redline, making obscene amounts of power or your into the serious drag racing thing.

camshaft selection and valve size are two to look at.

I bet. It shall be awesome.

Where abouts are they? In the switch somewhere? or in brisbane? We used a bloke at enogerra to do the machining for us Hagen Cylinder Head Reconditioning. Yeh i dunno about some engine builders and their thoughts. They dont know so they assume, or they do know and are either lazy or have their own preference so they spill shit to make you think otherwise. Our tuner likes rb25s for whatever reason and didnt want us to do the conversion, but we did and it makes more power everywhere! First one they have seen and i think they were suprised at the results My opinion is 30 hybrids pwn all! If you dont like it you know where to shove it

umm ok name please I think rb25 head studs are 11mm and rb26 are 12mm. Sure someone else can verify this.

Yeh i understand thats how they work and all...but sometimes their stuff is way off the mark....ill give an example...We rang them about a 48mm wastegate, a turbosmart one i believe it was. Their quoted price over the phone was just shy of $1000. Ok yeh fair enough, well we bought a 48mm turbosmart wastegate from hioctane for just under $700...We only tried autobarn because they were up the road from work at lawnton. Asked them what the go was just to see what they would say about it, the bloke was shocked and couldnt believe that we could buy it for that cheap. $300 dollars is a big difference in my opinion. Either way hioctane send freight overnight, so we got it the next day anyway. But for the fittings you are right they are usual prices...as per the norm. And im yet to come across a guy at an autobarn or supercheap that actually knows what they are talking about. No offense to anyone who works at one and may know something about cars.

dont hold me to it...but i think they are all the same, main studs that is. Head studs...well thats another thing. Umm cant you just ask for head studs for a rb26 head and then main studs for a rb30? Thats what i did and thats what i got, except mine were for rb25 head.

the acl pistons come with gas nitrided steel rings also....exceedingly good in my opinion, in comparison to just various other coated rings. For example the CP rings that came with the pistons are ductile iron rings that are moly or chrome coated, cant remember but im thinking moly. Coating is nowhere near as good as hardening. I just get pissed off putting in those stupid sprial locks for the gudgeon pin. Damn thats annoying!

HAHA SK basically said the same beans i was going to spill...but he said it better. Except i would have said to go and tell those engine builders that they are wankers!

sky30 CP advertise that with a std headgasket (1.2mm) with their pistons you get a 8.3:1 CR, with our particular head and block and headgasket i worked out ours to be closer to 8.5:1, from memory it was around 8.4X:1. So you could call it 8.5:1 for arguments sake. AM-PERFORMANCE Thats an extremely good price for plenum and injectors together. You should be heaps happy with that purchase, so now more clearance and more then enough fuel.

an afm is rather crucial to making the engine start and run.

sweet as it worked....ahh man. Yes anyway...i am normal.

This is mad and completly pointless but im at dinner and doing this from my phone. This is really cool and time consuming from a mobile haha. Um yeh go cp pistons since were talking about forgies.

This is mad and completly pointless but im at dinner and doing this from my phone. This is really cool and time consuming from a mobile haha. Um yeh go cp pistons since were talking about forgies.

yeh i heard hks ones are ati ones but with their name on it and they charge more for it.

yeh that was also one of the reasons for the larger housing.

Thats not too bad, i would have expected it to be more expensive then that since autobarn is normally good at overpricing everything and every guy there knows almost nothing about cars, same as supercheap except they have import stuff at lame prices.

maybe you need to pull this one down and inspect the pump...maybe the backing plate is coming loose as some do and its dropping oil pressure.

Steve just a quick question mate. Im assuming since there is no instruction on the cam gear that every line is equivalent to 2 degrees timing. Is that correct to assume?

ahh thats not your fault mate....its a subaru, what did you expect? j/k

fuel is shell optimax extreme 100ron and yeh its just a dedicated track car. Yeh for racing i think the larger housing should be fine, just a matter of convincing my old man that. The ATI damper we got for around $800 i believe....Its the 1000hp rb26 race one. With the 25/30 everything was fine except we had to modify the powersteering pump bracket a little bit...had to space it forward about 5mm so the belt would line up properly. We moved the pump forward within the bracket rather then modifying the bracket to move the whole lot forward. Just incase someone says its a bolt up item...well it isnt It revs out extremely easy and extremely fast almost as if nothing is holding it back, i can say like most of you think too that the 30hyrbid is just as revvy as the other rbs, just makes more power at lower rpm.

Anyway here is the dyno graph from the tune. They had problems with wheel spin, they couldnt keep the car down, with it strapped down as hard as they could get it and with a few fellas in the boot it still managed to wheelspin...They chewed up the re55 sr's...made a mess of their dyno room. You can see the blips on the plot. So final figure was 320kw at 8000rpm, wanted to keep going but 8k redline is fine. That was on 1.3 bar(19psi), knock is around 50-70. So due to boost spiking and excessive knock, that was the highest boost we could run with. Next step is definetely the water/meth injection, bigger cams and probably the 1.06 rear depending on lag difference. 400kw would be great, and shouldnt be too hard to achieve with the future mods. Things that we changed to since last tune : 110mm ARE intercooler, turbosmart 48mm WG, 6boost manifold and ATI damper. We are happy with it so far, and will know how much better it is in a few weeks at sprints and racing at QR *New power output with water/meth injection is now 365kw @ 8000rpm*

Anyway here is the dyno graph from the tune. They had problems with wheel spin, they couldnt keep the car down, with it strapped down as hard as they could get it and with a few fellas in the boot it still managed to wheelspin...They chewed up the re55 sr's...made a mess of their dyno room. You can see the blips on the plot. So final figure was 320kw at 8000rpm, wanted to keep going but 8k redline is fine. That was on 1.3 bar, knock is around 50-70. So due to boost spiking and excessive knock, that was the highest boost we could run with. Next step is definetely the water/meth injection, bigger cams and probably the 1.06 rear depending on lag difference. 400kw would be great, and shouldnt be too hard to achieve with the future mods. Hope its kewl to have this posted here. Will have to put it in the rb30 hybrid power thread too.