r33_racer

rotate your tyres if possible, then maybe you wont waste so many

your basically asking us to work out for you what sized spacers you required inorder to achieve an even offset all round so your track is not uneven from its std setting? You have given us the rear offset, now we require the front rim offset which as stated before should be stamped on the back of the rim somewhere. Go find it out for us. Based on what youve given us so far a 20mm spacer is required on the back, which is a common sized spacer to use. Once you get the front then we can work out the required spacer needed to maintain the front offset so they clear and work for you. From what you stated in the first post, thats what your asking. For a road car if the track is actually out of whack from stock its not really that big a deal, so long as its not way way out, which it wont be.

im interested. You have PM.

what made you want to take the photos out at brendale? Was richard doing something for you or was it just the place you chose to take the photos?

I believe that alignment issue is to do with std setup and probably std wheels and offsets. But i would say your logic behind the 20mm different offset is right, well it makes sense. A spacer, i guess is effectively creating an artificial offset to help make the wrong rim fit right.

goddamn...thats a fair whack.

To be honest mate i have no accurate answer for that. My guestimate would be they are some form of rear castor arms. But what they actually do or help do is beyond me. As far as i know on the rear you only have: camber, toe in/out i dont believe there is a rear castor. Maybe its a drag racing thing or drift thing....maybe its a wank! Maybe someone with more knowledge then me may answer that one

I believe by the way he worded it...he had the stock pump on and the temp was still a problem so he tried a n1 pump as a solution. I thought the n1 pump was just as good except it was anti cavitation, which is obviously good for constant high rpm....eg circuit/drift work. or does it flow less at any rpm, because of the anti-cavitation design. Was that the sacrafice inorder to achieve this?

right up there with hyundais and daewoos now. they look extremely ugly, and they are definetly not world class.

There is also some geometry aspect to messing with the track width and all, there is some tech term that describes the projected line from the suspension pivot points(i think) that put an imaginary point on the ground where the centre of your wheel should be sitting, when you widen the track with spacers you throw this out. Cant remember what its called nor how bad or relevant it is to motorsport but it stuck in the back of my mind. Hopefully SK or someother suspension guru can explain this point better or if it even exists...maybe im talking shit and getting confused with something else.

For camber you need the upper wishbone in adjustable form, the one pictured there i believe comes from the front-centre of the subframe and goes to the hub. You need the adjustable piece that goes from the centre-inside to the hub and around your shockabsorber up top to screw in/out rear camber. What you need for camber adjustment. Hope that makes sense

Whats full boost mate? std ecu R&R maybe? But that wouldnt explain the not starting again. As elite 32 said it does sound like a fuel problem, more so lack of up high. So you changed motor, loom and ecu or are all r33 looms the same from a series 1 and series 1.5?

someones a hippy. Perhaps spend a few hundred bux and just buy a 4" cat and put that in instead, the extra size surely wouldnt restrict a 3" system. But i admit having cool flames from the sil80 when it was minus a cat was cool fun when doing mountain runs haha.

fit a clutch fan....but i spose you cant fit one in hey? But is the system fully bled? Tried the upside down coke bottle with no ass end on it and half filled with water in the radiator trick and letting the car run and bleed itself out. Might still have air pockets caught up somewhere.

whats there to translate mate? It gives you the machining diameter needed to fit the collar on. Its very straightforward. We took ours to the machine shop down the road and they fitted it for us...we just loctited the grub screws in. Some people use a interference fit and heat the collar up, and freeze the crank and let them normalise onto eachother and then put the grubscrews in, ofcourse the crank will need to have recessed holes for the grub screws to lock in, making sure they go in just under flush. I think it cost us like 90 bux to get done and its still working

i heard they have hydraulic lifters, and the valve springs are considerably weaker then normal r33 rb25 and they suffer from valve float quite easily. That came from a workshop....so i dont know how much truth is in it.

perhaps its possible that motor was transplanted into that r33.

I have a 96 and 97 r33 s2 and that cas is different, and being a 98 model i would say there is a very strong chance that it is the neo version. Ofcourse thats only from visual appearance.

You will shit yourself then if you ever change from hard compound re55s to full slicks. We found about a good 2 second increase in lap times just from switching over to full slicks... but at 2g+ for a set its pretty exxy However, you accelerate quicker, brake later, push it harder through the corners, faster straight line speeds and gives you that general feeling of invincibility

I would say there is probably variation between those figures, but the mechanic that did it, probably ignored the 0-10 figures and rounded the buggers up or down to 120 to call it even.

we know hes running re55's hard compound. yes im psychic

very interested...pics please to [email protected] cheers.

thats low....maybe not in someone elses books but in mine it is. A cold test i would want it to be around 150-160 no less then that or your in for hard starts and poor economy and lack of power and lots of blow by...eventually.

yeh compression ratio is low...but cylinder compression is different to your CR. They are probably relative to eachother, but most RB's should be around those figures. But most std ones that have been around or thrashed will more then likely have low compression....rings are shagged

silly question...my bad