r33_racer

hahahaha that is gold....theres always the hand for those few weeks or months...pray it doesnt take that long. hehe. good luck man.

but MR i want a fully sic vl commo flutter tooooo........flutters are cool NOT!

Lovely... I think alot of people were thinking that but no one wanted to say anything lol Our bottom end, well everything was balanced and de dagged or sanded up casting dags, crank was fine, just machined for the collar, girdle was untouched...that was it to the bottom end oh and it was faced. nothing special done to the rods or pistons or clutch or harmonic damper, just all balanced. But our engine is in a circuit car mate, not a drag car.

Yeh those figures add up right. However, if you wanted to cheat as SK has said before you can raise the fuel pressure and squeeze more out of them after you change the afm, most ive heard out of std injectors is about 230rwkw...but i would say give or take 10rwkws for dyno differences. As some people have said more (upto 240rwkw) and some have said a little less (220 odd).

Well that makes sense then. Cause the mods and power just dont add up! Maybe check the valve itself in the gate and see if its working properly, or maybe that you didnt damage the neoprene seal in the top part of the gate when you or whoever changed over the spring.

you know it mate....im looking for a set for my 33. Best factory alloys around lol.

25/30, powerfc pro, gt35/40 .83ar rear, 850cc sards, vct, ati damper. The response is extremely good, full boost atm is only 18psi, get that by a shade under 3500rpm, redline atm is 7k will be 8.5k after next tune.

You do have the lines connected properly right? I had my avcr hooked up arse about in that it will still setup for a internal gated turbo, not external and the boost kept spiking randomly all over the place. Or as R31Nismoid said the lines may be damaged or have holes or splits in them. side note *(Not to be rude, but 440cc injectors could not support your 400whp, that means maxed out your making 440hp @ the fly (give or take 10-15hp), does your driveline only use 40hp, how come your drivetrain is more hp efficient then mine? Theoretically you could only make about 360whp max with those injectors. Ofcourse they could be freakish and flow way more then their stated rating.) I know weve all spoken about this before, so i apologise for it being off track.

You really need an a/m ecu if you want to add injectors, different afm or cams. Anything more then what you have now and your just going to be wasting money. The a/m ecu will at least let you tune what you have now properly, and then give you the head room to expand successfully from there on.

Thats a lie...shoot whoever told you that If there is a problem its more then likely the tuner, remember a good tradesman never blames his tools. And the powerfc in the race car is running the 850's perfectly fine

I know a good chiropractor mate....PM in 3 months when your backs out hey. Good luck. Cheers.

When i spoke to kyle last about his opinion on equal length runners, he basically said that he has seen no difference between an equal and unequal which he made and back to back tested on the dyno, with no changes except switching the manifolds. We came to the conclusion that they are a wank.

not really crucial at that power level. I had 260rwkws with std coil packs and no dramas whatsoever. I dont know how much a new set of std packs are but splitfires are only like 500 bux i think and for a replacement set they do the trick well. Then they are new and dont have to worry about any ignition problems being related to coilpack failure down the track. However a stronger spark never hurt anyone, except the plug. If you are looking at more upgrades down the line then perhaps its worth getting now, and if the money is literally falling out of your pocket then hey, why not?

100mph tape will do the trick!

ok so i was bored....went and found the thread for the oil control in RB's by SK. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680 That will help if you havent already found it.

look for the table posted in oil control in rbs somewhere in the forums here. It has what you need to know.

Large E Doodle eh? j/ks

Shane in my r33 I have 550cc SARDS and in the race car we got 850cc SARDS. I think the basic equation is that its 1HP to every 1cc, so going on that 550hp @ the fly is the max, call it 500hp to be safe. Thats about 420hp @ the wheels. I think the price difference is almost nothing for the 740cc nismo items, might as well go them if you think your going to come up short with the 555cc ones. Whats the t3/t4 you have rated at? Unless your changing turbos in the future that will tell you how much you should allow for.

from memory i think we made ours out of ally bar, turned down to 6.10-6.15mm for a tight fit. I think the actual hole size is 6mm, that sound right SK? Only built the motor 3-4 months ago, i got a shocking memory...

wow thats awesome figures for that t70...the one i got from 2fast2furious didnt boost till about 4500rpm, and on 18psi i only made 345rwhp @ Mercury Motorsports Dyno. I like your figures better, would have given me more street cred. Stupid me used the oil line they supplied, supposed to be a teflon inner s/s line and well the heat cooked it and the inside carbonised and caused a blockage and well we all know how well turbos spool with no oil in them dont we Happy to say i replaced it with a gt3076r or something like that with a .63 rear....way better.

because you dont need to control the fuel pressure with an aftermarket pump on, cause you have a/m management needed to control the injectors. Does that make sense. I think it does. I kept mine on just for the ability to keep monitoring fuel pressure....im lazy though.

not only that the sards require a plug rewire. Nismos would be much better as they are a true drop in replacement. The only thing that i think they dont come with is new o rings, and its highly recomended to change them while their out so you dont get a leaky injector down the track.

maybe rear main seal is gone and leaking oil and its burning off on or around the clutch and making it slip and smell? Leaking any oil from around the bell housing?

good ole 2fast2furious performance. they sell all that crap.

look at SK's group buy on the suspension setup make sure you get swaybars also, and if its only for the occasional track day, then adjustable castor and camber bushes, rear subframe bushes. That should get you started on the suspension stuff. You should hardwire that pump, like in the post about it umm Cubes i think started it, do a search for it. Is the clutch just an organic full faced one with a slightly heavier pressure plate? May need a button one if you start upping the power, better suspension, semi slicks for more traction....it will be just asking for something to slip, if it already is then sweet as mate. And obviously what paul said already about the AFM.