r33_racer

I would go a steel headgasket...safer then std nissan item and stronger obviously, alot of people go with it when tuning with more boost. Depending on who is tuning the car some may ask to go with a lower comp and some may say to leave it std 9:1. I know most tuners would prefer to drop it to atleast 8.5:1 because there is that safety margin to help reduce knock or any chance of it in the future incase something does go wrong. I think from memory a rb25 with 1.6mm gasket will give roughly a 8:1 CR or close to it.

wouldnt think the boost controller would have anything to do with the problem. It will just be fuel cut coming in...R&R as stated before, a/m ecu will fix it. Generally winter will bring upon boost spikes and induce R&R more so if you have the boost set right on that threshold and the occassional squirt mixed with colder climate will bring upon that change.

I dont believe bhp = rwhp brake horsepower is power measured at the flywheel as on an engine dyno and rear wheel horsepower is that figure less any drivetrain losses. So dirt garage made about 540hp at the wheels(4) on that setup.

on another note similar to carl h's you dont have your breathers returned into your instake like std do you? If there is any oil there it will be returning back into your intake possibly causing a miss.

Ok, so I got a 2 way diff from an importer out of an r33, dont know what series it was. However we took out the std lsd from race car last night and compared the two diffs. The one we took out of the race car (series 2 97 model) is a little bit longer overall and it has some sort of sensor just behind the yoke. The other diff which looks identical except the shorter length and lack of sensor clearly wont go in now without some modifying. What im curious to know is how many different r33 diffs are there? and are they interchangeable somehow without having to do the obvious and machine up a spacer plate for the tailshaft to reach the yoke? Has anyone encountered this before? We have a tomei 1.5 way centre were putting into the std diff so were sure to have a mechanical diff that will work regardless. Thanks.

Toe in at the rear will help with keeping the car direction stable and whilst cornering will help the turning. I believe toe out on the rear induces unstable directioning and helps the rear end oversteer. Does that make sense? If SK answers it the response will be alot more informative for sure

Fine. It will protect good enough...no need to split hairs. Especially if its not an outrageous hp machine with bulk stress on everything. Go for gold.

1997 R33 S2 GTST RB25/30 Race Car. RB25 Head with VVT Mild Port n Polish Tomei Type A valve springs - Soon to be. Greddy Intake Manifold w/ Q45 Throttle Body S/S Exhaust Manifold - Soon to be 6Boost Tial 38mm Wastegate - Soon to be 48mm Turbosmart Gate GT35/40 0.82 Rear AR 3" Straight through Exhaust, Dumped PS infront of rear wheel Screamer to ATMO Q45 AFM 850cc SARDS POWERFC PRO w/Datalogit AVCR 600X300X76 PWR I/C - Soon to be 110mm ARE I/C Turbosmart BOV CP 25/30 Pistons w/CP Chromemoly Rings 8.3:1 CR ACL Steel Headgasket REV I Beam Rods ATI Super Damper - Soon to be. 044 Bosch Pump/ 40ltr Fuel Cell ACL Bearings all throughout ARP Main & Head Studs Tomei 256 Poncams IN/EX NI Oil Pump with JUN Crank Collar 4.5l Custom Catch Can PWR 50mm Core Radiator High Energy Circuit Sump Exedy Twin Plate Clutch w/ Chromemoly Flywheel Remote Oil Cooler That setup on 18psi made 240rwkw. Dont know torque figure. That was base tune for run in. Will be going back for full tune when soon to be items go on. Was tuned at Charlies Motors in Brisbane. They dont give dyno print outs and they dont believe in pimple faced horsepower, hence why our power figure is alot lower then everyone elses for amount of mods done. But it sure is a hell of alot quicker then old rb25, I can swear by that. Ill try and get a printout on next tune, if not ill just have to take a photo if im there whilst its on the dyno. Were hoping for 300rwkw

haha too bad ive seen an eb falcon lap a hsv maloo around qr

I would think close...but not quite.

very nice mate. Carbon Fibre touch really makes it look good.

I must be slow....i dont get it? GOT GATE? I would have thought maybe GOT TORQUE?

Get the guide, it explains virtually everything you need to know mate.

Try nissan for the parts or maybe if your damn lucky try a bearing shop and you might be in luck You wouldnt want to use second hand ones...always go new if possible, especially with suspension parts.

Bingo, exactly what we did with our rb30det in the racecar. Except it was an rb30 crank obviously. Has worked with no dramas so far. I must say the drive section of the collar is massive in comparison to the std drive on the crank, well once again for rb30 crank lol. Bigger is better in these circumstances strangely enough.

Been away for three days and ive missed out on all of this. haha. My 96 r33 made less then 143rwkw with std ecu, fmic, exhaust and avcr @ 12psi..usual crap...couldnt get anymore... Put powerfc on and abit more boost, upped to 14psi and i made 166rwkw. So i agree with mafias idea on dynos, and the relevant power figures, seems accurate enough. And drive train losses are about 80hp constant, not a percentage of overall power made. There definetly is alot of people who have been hanging around the what my old man refers to as 'The dyno tuners for pimple faced kids' who look for nothing more but who has the most outright power with as little mods as possible. Whether that power is accurate or not...who cares. So long as my car has more then yours....i get the extra street cred yeh?

I also have one in my 33 and i drive a toyota hilux work ute all day long.when i jump in the r33 at nights or on weekends it feels about 5 times heavier then the ute. But for a ceramic button clutch they are light, and grip well...i was doing redline drops at QR with 255 semi slicks and had no clutch problems at all. Still havent. Full slicks will put it to the test someday when i get back out there

Are you referring to the engines CR and it being bad cause it was built bad originally? or do you mean the engine is shagged from old age and abuse and the compression has dropped and needs a rebuild...if the latter then yes an oversized bore with new pistons and rings to suit will ensure compression is good again and tolerances are tight. Id imagine compression would be around the 160-170 mark..similar to an rb25.

Yeh i know about it...the landowner pulled out cause of advice she received from her legal half...lawyer told her it wasnt in her best financial interests as it wouldnt pay itself off quick enough or something...i think i posted it all up in the other thread about the kilcoy track.

its a cams event...organised by the Short Circuit guys. You only need a lvl2 cams license which is easy enough to get. Ok i just checked and the sup regs and entry forms are still out, closes 19th of this month. I think you may also need to be a member of the short circuit touring car association too....hmm that part slipped my mind...anyway you can check any details at their website. http://www.short-circuit-motor-racing.com.au/ Cheers.

I have one on my car...lower control arm p.s is off an r34 from the wreckers. Ok well the part was labeled r34 and it fitted and was identical to the r33 one i took off. But i wouldnt take my word for it...just incase the wreckers had buggered up.

I believe front lower control arms off r34s are also the same.

sprint track a 57.3; national track a 1:21 ; clubman track a 1:01 ; Sportman track a 58.6 I think thats all the times for the tracks... 9krpm what are yours? You race the 300kw GTR, if so that should lay out some quick times.

hey humz...its kewl man i didnt really give you anything to go on...just some common sense stuff. This is a site which maybe helpful to you also http://users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm . I believe difference between na and turbo head is the vct, actually i think those details are in the start of the guide mate, just incase i spun you a porky pie there. CruiseLiner - is it fitzpatrick speed works who has the lasercut adapter plates? Or is that for something else?

hooray for a non sarcastic remark I too am for that form of learning...or else the world would be filled with too many idiots who just get lazy and want to pay someone else to do everything for them. I dont know about anyone else...but i feel prouder and more confident in myself being able to tell someone at the track that 'yes i did assemble/build/fabricate this myself' and be able to help/guide them if they want to attempt the same, save someone getting ripped by a performance workshop. Apologies if i offended anyone.