r33_racer

Perhaps you should have a look around and see if anything is outta place, if you have no idea what your looking at then perhaps you should take it to a suspension mob and see if they can see anything outta place. The chances of someone going yeh this is your problem, just from a simple "my left suspension sounds like its going to fall apart" statement are pretty bloudy slim. You need to provide more accurate detail on what is it exactly your hearing, feeling, noticing while driving, be it accelerating, braking, reversing, cornering and what have you. Then maybe someone can throw a more accurate answer your way. Apologies if my reply seemed rude, was not the intention

Cheers mate. Thanks alot

Why do you want to electronically adjust the damper for? Is this for a race car? If your looking for an ideal suspension package that you can set and forget, see SK's suspension kit group buy, it will probably work out better then some teins with a cool little electronic gadget.

annoyingly painful amounts of trial and error. Get one corner how you like it and try and get a common point for a measurement and try and replicate it on the other corners. eg. Measure how much thread is left from the bottom of the threaded sleeve to the underneath of the first adjusting ring. You may find an easier way yourself.

The whiteline bars are blade adjustable, with numerous holes in them to increase the amount of anti sway or decrease. Both front and back are like that. Are the nismo ones adjustable? I know a mate of mine got some cusco ones and they are just plain ole swaybars, but slightly thicker in diameter. The traction part is debatable, cause it depends on how it is setup:)

looks like either a .63 or .82 rear, i cant make out the stamp inside the exhaust housing very well... .70 compressor housing...its the 6 blade gt30 wheel too which i think is the proper one not the old school one. looks very similiar to mine.

by the books. a 10" rim is normally good for about a 300/12" tyre, i think thats about the maximum recommended size. Ill let you know if we fit our new 290mm dunlop slicks onto our 9.5" rims. Could be a little awkward, but should be ok.

that would be great...sweet. Please let us know when, cause i need to get this done asap before car goes of for tuning. Thanks for the help.

Did you end up having any luck with that Fangz? Im stuck on this thing...dammit...need to get it done before tuning next week.

Jack up that left hand side and then hold the left hand wheel with your hands and just try and make it move without actually turning the wheel...there should be virtually no play. If the wheel can move a few mm and it feels a little sloppy, then thats your tie rod end worn out, its very dangerous if they get bad, should be replaced immediately, if it breaks outta its casing whilst driving you will know about it

yeh that page with the video doesnt always load...sometimes its taken me to the main page...not the one with the porsche video on it. http://www.autoclips.net/requestauto.php?f...ent=664&id=4504 see if that works for ya. nope guess it doesnt....so then if it doesnt work..search for Porsche 911 GT3 Rally, unless the page is working for you.

The new rb30det we just put in the race car, it took a good 15-20 mins of idling to get the lifters to stop ticking. Took a while for them to bleed themselves out. Also got a few good revs as well, tell ya the oil pressure from an n1 oil pump is bloudy high, maybe the higher pressure helped them bleed quicker. But it does take a little while for it to happen.

The oil water cooler we took of the rb25 and put it on the rb30 and i believe the std oil pressure sender hole was in the block. Its a series 2 block so im guessing s1 is the same. The only problem with the rb25 oilwater cooler is that it has a push on oring seal onto the block. The rb30 oil filter hole there has a threaded fitting to screw ur filter onto. Remove the filter fitting off the rb30 and then take off the rb25 one and put it on the rb30. Then you just push on the whole unit and bolt it up with some silicon or a gasket, whichever you choose. Then you can utilise both oil pressure sender feeds so your not teeing off everything from the one hole. Hope that makes sense.

ill take a photo tonite and show you what we did. actually might go get it now.

I used the std rb30 feed for vct, and then i used a t piece off the oil-water bolt on filter assembly for a/m gauge and std gauge. Is there anything wrong with that setup??

for track work having that much power i would think you would be creating quite possibly a slower car then what you could have. For that sort of power you would have alot of top end, i believe that much power would make your car slower, whether its from wheel spin, or boost drop off during gear changes. I think v8 super cars are nearing 700bhp, and you want 700awhp! Most quick circuit cars are generally around 650bhp max i believe. My opinion is that a fast circuit car is built around excellent midrange power with good top end, but it depends on what track your running as to how usable that power will be to you.

The public dont like hoons on the streets, but they dont want race tracks around either cause of noise pollution or whatever their personal preference is regarding the matter. At least 75% of the qld police force is dedicated to making sure 'hoons' dont drive their cars on the roads, yet there are not enough tracks around so people can have their fun in a safe environment. Ive heard recently that Carnell raceway at Stanthorpe is now under attack from public cause of noise and whatever else is bugging the surrounding residents, last short circuit meeting had to be moved to Morgan Park because of it, and it maybe a possibility that there might not be anymore meets at Carnell. I hope the council and parties involved all realise these things and do the right thing and allow the track to reopen even if it is for limited forms of motorsport, at least it will be a start. Cant wait for the new track to open out at Kilcoy. Godbless the Historic Racers.

Quick question mate, have you tried rotating the compressor housing so it wont hit the rocker cover? I think you will find you just need to turn it around till it misses and you have sufficient clearance. Normally you would turn the housing around so the outlet is facing down towards the chassis rail.

Found that typically its always the cyl 1 and 6 studs which will break, top and bottom ones as the heat wants to flex/pull the outside more then the inside, plus from 10-15 yrs worth of hot/cold hot/cold they become brittle and break easily. If your ever taking manifold off, change all of the studs and nuts. Make sure you use proper cone nuts too, dont use nyloc, or plain with spring washers, i shouldnt have to explain why. good luck with the studs.

I have a quick and important question regarding piston/bore lubrication. We have aftermarket rods and pistons, obviously no block mounted oil squirters and the rods dont have any holes in them for external oil squirting. The motor has been assembled already and were just doing external fittings and ancilliary bits before it goes in. The thing thats playing on my mind is, is there enough oil lubrication from just crank splash to sufficiently lubricate/cool the bore and pistons? The bore was machined on the tighter side of the piston spec sheets tolerance which will make the situation worse. Now will it be a big problem like this or are others running their rb30s like this with no dramas. Would be good to find out now before motor goes in so we can easily pull it apart and rectify the problem. It is a race motor too. Thanks in advance.

Yes congratulations on that effort. Good to see another aussie thinking outside the square and trying something new. Excellent work.

You can have a look around if you havent been to their site yet. Im pretty sure they make rod bearings and mains for the whole rb range. http://www.acl.com.au/

LOL @ SK goddamn thats golden. Personally i think the car is too low mate. Maybe you should jack it up and take a chance on looking uncool and put up with better handling, suspension and tyre wear, as opposed to the opposite. Also i would give it about a month before your running on steel belts on the i/s rear tyres. Could be sooner depending on how many skids you rip for your mates/random specatators. Not only does he know everything, hes also a comedian. These forums would be boring without SK.

We have a gcg ss manifold on the race car. It has been through 6 race meets and its cracked to the shithouse, I havent checked the primary runners wall thickness but everything was gusseted and welded pretty nice. Im a boily by trade so im pretty knowledgable on fab stuff. Now its cracked through the welds and around the haz around some of the welds and gussets. The welds had good penetration were the right colour and were several layers thick. Overall i was fairly impressed with the manifold in its construction. The biggest thing which everyone so far has seemed to miss is that stainless once its gone through alot of heat cycles goes brittle. Thats its biggest weakness. You can tell when ss has gone brittle when the colour of it goes dull grey, especially around the welds, a good weld should have a nice array of rainbow colours through it. If your manifold has grey/dark grey welds around it they are too hot and have compromised its grain sructure. Obviously after many shocks and vibrations and sudden jolts the brittle areas will crack as can be witnessed on our race car manifold. I believe the ss manifolds do radiate more heat into the engine bay as ss absorbs alot of heat also and holds it extremely well. Our engine p.s loom is testament to that, melted wires everywhere, we didnt have that problem with the cast manifold with no shields on either. Weve gone through 2 silicone oil return hoses because of the radiating heat from the manifold, weve just changed everything over to teflon lined ss sheathed lines because of the massive heat issues were having. Obviously on a race car the conditions are exaggerated immensely in comparison to a road car. Another boily i work with spent his time doing truck and car exhausts, and hes told me that on your average falcadoore you get about 3-4 years before the headers start to crack around the welds. Same problem different conditions, but nonetheless it still happens.

Simple electronics, volts go down, amps go up, when amps go up, motors run hotter, which equals burnt out motor sooner. Outta curiosity is the 8ga cable that you used Cubes some 8mm thick auto cable or something similiar?