r33_racer

I concur about the clips...i had same problem on cyl 6..took me a while to work out why she was only running on 5 cylinders. The little wire clips werent in all the way to make contact when the plug was clipped in.

I think alot of places put diesel down with the water. Not only does it incur random arse end movements when you thought you had it under control, its also super friendly for your paint. NOT. They do it to keep speeds down to a super friendly toddler pace.

Are the mounting brackets held on with studs from the chassis or with bolts to the chassis? If its bolts, then piece of piss, just make up some spacer plates and get some longer bolts if needed. However, if its studs then it might be slightly harder to do unfortunately. Going by whats in your sig...im guessing your a fellow boily or have exp in fabrication. A small challenge like this shouldnt be beyond your abilities.

are you referring to the collar or actual injector. If you mean collar, ours are blue and weve had some bodgy unanodised ally ones which are obviously silver/ally colour. The unanodised ones we got were sloppy and no good we had to return them for proper ones. Not sure what colour the actual injectors are.

I believe they would be, cause i know s15 injectors are a common upgrade for r33's because they are both side feed and high impedance. So i would guess that they would be interchangeable.

ok here it is. Courtesy of Roy from another post. R32 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 280×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R33 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 23.8 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 Now the interesting bit... R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,) Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons smaller then trailing Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22 So there isnt much difference between the Brembos and the std Nissan R32/33 GTST calipers and R32 GTR calipers

I concur with Craved, I believe i saw on that table Roy posted up ages ago in here somewhere that the 33 gtst and 32 gtr brakes are very similiar if not identical in caliper piston size. But i think configuration might have been slightly different, the details on that part evade me there sorry. Should find that table and repost it.

I had no cat on my rb20det sil-80, i fabbed up a piece of pipe same length at cat with two flanges and put that inbetween, had some mad flames. I kept the full proper unbutchered cat in garage, then when i sold the car i put it back on. I had it intended if i got sent over the pits at qld tpt, before i went i would put cat back on. Cops couldnt see, cause car was too low anyway. That was back in my young silly days hehe. I hear the metalcats/magic cats are supposed to flow really really well.

sounds like you guys are having mad rb30 fun.....i cannot wait

Just blocked off the front feed with a brass bung and put the tomei restrictor in the back. I know the guide said 1mm feed, but the ones we machined up with the 1mm hole were too sloppy and didnt have anymore time to stuff around making another one. Eitherway its gotta help, especially with the rear welsh plug gone and a line down to the sump. On another note, the high energy sumps are nice. Nice work, very simple in design, im kicking myself now cause my idea for the old sump was very similiar to what the high energy one is:( But its a good setup, next to only a dry sump system id say. Build so far includes, RB30 S2 block, 20thou oversize for CP pistons, Scat I beam rods, RB25DET VVT Head has been port and polished, tomei 256 8.5mm cams, N1 oil pump, JUN collar, R33 S2 Water pump, Greddy plenum, q45TB, S/S manifold with a gt35r with .82 housing. Heap of other stuff. Ill get some pics when its done tomorrow night or sat. Should look good when its all done. Were hoping for around 450hp at the rears.

Not to be rude or sound negative mate, but I wouldnt think the 26 or any of the rb range would generate enough torque to lug it around. Whats a pathfinder weigh these days? Around 2t-2.2t. Thats alot of weight, closest thing with enough stroke would be rb30 combo. What will you do with the gearbox and diff ratios for speed? For a low 13 sec pass i believe you need to be crossing around 110mph, thereabouts. Is that right??? It would certainly be an interesting challenge, but there are so many things going against it working out. I would go for the supercharging option as it would probably be easier, or turbocharge it. Just my 50 cents worth.

2nd paulr33 RB30det

haha yeh...hopefully you wont have any problems with it. Will be interesting to see some dyno figures since its a 4wd system, once you get it fully tuned.

Well ill know soon enough, we will be using powerfc pro in the 25/30 in a few weeks when it gets tuned. So i guess that will tell the story. He also mentioned that motec and haltec are too exxy for him, how is an autronic compared to say a motec in price? I thought autronic were not too far off a motec?

I think your options are limited. Might be worthwhile getting another gear stick short shift or whatever it is, if you dont wanna go for any of the options listed. I reckon the welding a new thread on would work, if your worried about the brittleness then you could just heat it up with the oxy and let it cool in lime or oil for a few days and it should be fairly hard(case hard). If you wanna go one step further send it off and get it heat treated properly at heat treatment australia or someone like them.

your tuner does not recommend powerfc....is he an auto mechanic, or a mower mechanic by any chance?? (personal joke, mate of mine is a mower mech and doesnt like powerfcs, works as a mechanic now. haha thought there might be someone else like him around canadia.) didnt mean to be an insult, my apologies. Powerfc has got to be one of the cheapest, and easiest a/m computers to use. Its excellent value, and im sure almost everyone on here would agree with that.

Ive heard that once a set of porsche brakes have been 'heat cycled' they start having issues with uneven clamping pressure as the caliper start to warp and buckle. Apparently when someone is selling off second hand porsche brakes it can mean they are rooted. Thats what the gt3 guys say around the track.

she'd be right mate, thats the fully sick port and polish with grit isnt it?? Hes just taken the joke a little bit too literally without even realising it. haha. ' But yeh obviously were hoping no sand in anywhere else. On a side note, i got the jun collar fitted to the crank by the machinist, and i fitted the water pump and oil pump and put the new tensioner on the block. The new motor is coming together very nicely.

The feed actually comes straight from the back of the waterpump, and runs through the plenum and around the block and to the turbo. If you ever get an aftermarket plenum like a greddy item, you need to plumb the waterfeed straight from back of pump and run it to the turbo.

I think if your choosing from any of the major companies you dont have anything to worry about. They are all of pretty high standard. Most people go on price and ease of fitment, eg nismo injectors virtually a direct swap except for putting new orings on em which is no hassle. I use sards, just because thats what i got before i knew about nismos being direct replacement. Sure they have collars and you need to wire in new plugs for em, but they've done the trick without fail so far. Other reason i liked getting sards is that there is always plenty in stock in australia. Sometimes the wait from nengun for items, depending on their stocks can be a while.

If your going to go for a suspension, typically jap coilovers of any brand with spring rate from 8-10kgs front and back, dont bother with sway bars, springs that hard dont let anything else do their job. Your kidding yourself if you think changing swaybars settings or even changing swaybays alltogether with springs that stiff is gonna make a difference, unless magically somehow circuit racing and drifting use swaybars completely differently. Ive learnt that from experience with the r33 racecar. Teins with 8kg fronts and 8kg backs, shithouse for handling, I made adjustments in every possible way front and back(swaybar wise), and they made no bloudy difference. I had to drop spring rates significantly to let the swaybars start to work. Camber i would guess around -2F -1/-1.5R at the most, caster prob as much as possible around +8, toe would be a play around, see what happens.

I was gonna suggest looking at your caster bushes and seeing if they are aftermarket offset bushes. Maybe your LH side bush was 180 around and giving an atypical caster setting. I think normally suspension places will set those bushes up so your D.S wheel is further back then your P.S wheel to compensate for the camber of australian roads. Roads normally peak in the middle and taper away each side for water run off and such. But if that main arm is damaged then I suppose you cant look past that, it will definetly need some attention, whether you get a new one or a second hand one from wreckers or off someone on here whose wrecking a 32gtr.

Do you mean t3 flanged, or t3 hybrid turbo of somekind which you find vl commo owners searching for all the time.

Help would be muchly appreciated. I have one in the garage and i need wiring help for when its about to go on:)

Check all the fuses in your fuse box under the driverside dash...im assuming they are in the same spot as a gtst. I had a simliar problem in the race car...wired up the z32 afm wrong and it fried a fuse, car wouldnt start and but solenoids were clicking and pump was priming....changed fuse and rewired it correctly and it was good as gold.