r33_racer

May i ask what engineering joint it is? Yes the whole darra/ rocklea area is one of the biggest industrial areas in brisbane, if not the biggest.

Southside = lame Pity your work dealings arent on the northside. The new track at kilcoy will certainly be great. Depends on how long your up here for if you will get to see it in action. Lowdnes helped design it and test it. He reckoned it was good stuff. Maybe you should stay longer then 6 months if thats what it ends up being. Its always good to get away from the mexicans and spend some time with good ole banana benders.

If you reckon the gear knob keeps turning even when it bottoms out, generally means that either the thread on the stick is stuffed or the thread on the knob is stuffed. A few edges could be chipped off, or even most of them. Just out of curiosity, does the gear knob even have a thread in it? If so, is it loose to turn onto the gear stick? It could be the wrong thread or wrong size, and someone previously has just jammed it on and cross threaded it which has made it how it is.

I believe r34 lower control arms are the same as r33. I got one from a wreckers down in mexico somewhere. I asked for an r33 LH lower control arm and i received an r34 LH lower control arm. It bolted up just fine and everything else did as well. How that helps your situation, i have no idea. Might help someone else though.

25 and 26 are better then 30.... Its pretty bold to say so. Why are their bottem ends better then a 30's?

and the wiring will need to change to suit the z32 plugs.

Ive looked around...rang wreckers and performance shops...No one seems to have one. If anyone has one they want to sell im very interested. If anyone knows of somewhere that has one im also very interested. Seems so god damn hard to find one these days. Cheers.

Well im sure alot of people are watching...curious to see how you go, whether they like you or not....Will be good if you get into those 10's.

ahh...im more the wiser now...cheers for the info:) So rbs are closed deck.

The concentration level and speeds they run at are significantly higher/faster then what most normal racers run at. They push themselves to a much higher limit and have someone else with a limit just as high if not higher right up their arse...here it will be just road racers with some skills being pushed by someone with some circuit skills from the occasional track day. Besides 3 min break minimum will give you a chance to quickly down at least 300mls of water if they dont have a waterfeed setup incar. You would be suprised how far you can push yourself if you really want to do well. When you get into what i spose you could call your 'zone'...you forget everything else except what your doing to win/stay ahead or get around the car infront of you, normally you forget that you have to piss or how thirsty you are...cause all you want to do is get around that stupid commo that keeps taking up the whole track and forces you to jump the ripple strip and miss the apex when he decides to cut right into your line when your overtaking him at 150kph. bloudy holdens! Yeh if someone could clarify the amount of peoples and how it works. Is it 4 cars 4 drivers to cover the 500kms? or if the team has 4 cars and drivers do they each have to cover 500kms?

I think hes referring to the combustion chamber in the head the recessed part where the in/out valves are and the spark plug. Im guessing one type is where its recessed like in rbs..and another type is where maybe its flush or closer to the actual bore/piston? That would be my interpretation.

GTST I was about to say exactly the same thing. MR331307 Good work for improving the times....but you still couldnt resist hey? Maybe leave the clown remarks at the door and people may show a little respect.

Bloudy Cubes hey lol...leading us all astray. Unless he just got told that from his engine builder and someone got confused somewhere along the way. So i guess you would still just block one off as per SK specs.

Found the stahwille adjustable C spanners we use...bout 90bux each i think they were from the local mobile tool bloke. Forgot about those beauties hehe:)

Ok...so if they come std with 1.5mm holes then you obviously dont require the restrictors as there would be no point. Can anyone else confirm 1.5mm feeds std in rb25?

Im pretty sure i read somewhere 2 X 2.4mm hole std for rb20 and 25. Im pretty damn sure these engines are both std and have 1.5mm holes in them. Yeh i know the tomei site doesnt recommend using them with the hydraulic followers...but SK recommendations have been noted in the rb30 thread regarding oil restrictors. Has anyone else opened up a 20/25 to find 1.5mm holes in their feeds?

Hey, I pulled down two rb25 det blocks...one for a rb30 build and the other just for a light rebuild for the race car while the 25/30 is in progress. I have some photos of the blocks to confirm about oil restrictors. One block is a s1 and other is s2. I had a piece of 1.56mm m/s tig electrode and i could not fit it down either of the two oil feeds. Both of these motors were dead std when we got them...one from car we already owned and one I picked up from down the coast which came in dead std form 2nd hand. Now If the restrictors are 2.4mm then shouldnt i have been able to fit the electrode down the feed? To me they look about 1.5mm, after i tapered the electrode tip abit it would just fit into the feed. Verniers verified 1.5mm holes. Remember everything on these engines is std..internals/externals. So im lost. Or am i confused with whats what here? Cheers.

The most common trick is to just drill a few holes in it through the radius of the gear and tap it with ya knocko and presto it should just crack and slide off..apparently they are about 40 bux for a new one. Others have successfully gotten it off with about 2 cans of your choice of oil lub/peno spray eg..wd40, crc or inox and a rubber mallet. You could always heat it up with an oxy and knock if off, but id be abit worried about how much heat you would need to put into it to get it off...noting that the heat will transfer into the crank as well.

I believe studs have a greater compression/tensile strength. It supposedly increases it about 15-20% extra over bolts. Im sure arp will have prices for such things.

Im sure its been covered a million times before. But a top mount turbo is one which is mounted over the exhaust runners. A low mount obviously is under. Generally there is no benefit of having a top mount, however you can only go so big with a low mount as you run outta space for the turbo to fit. Run into clearance issues with engine mounts and all that caper. High mount definetly has a more bling side to it if everything is polished and show like:) Low mount generally stays cooler as nissan designed it to go that way so it receives some air flow. High mount will cook just about everything within a 200mm radius of the hotside. ABS units are affected, wiring can also melt away...so on and so forth.

Thats from Roy from another post already. Hope that helps. R32 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 280×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R33 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 23.8 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 Now the interesting bit... R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,) Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons smaller then trailing Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22 So there isnt much difference between the Brembos and the std Nissan R32/33 GTST calipers and R32 GTR calipers.

For road ive normally only used falkens and ive just had a few of the cheap nankangs..also had some others but cant remember names or sorts:( Ive used some duro 40 retreaded slicks, dunlop uncut wets, bridgestone re55's tt and sr and now some michy s8b slicks are on the way for the next few races. I personally dont worry about the tyre type that much on the road, cause i dont think there is any need. For the track, yeh definetly thats why we try different tyres to improve times. If i was stupid enough to be racing around on the streets like I do on the track then yeh I might look at semi slicks for the street. I drive abit hard on the streets too somtimes with a few races or just squirts down the street and around the windy parts and they handle the power and pull up well. My car is a 33 with 360rwhp 255 on rear and 235s on front. Like i said. No complaints. On or off the track. except for the re55 sr...abit hard for my liking.

Michy 240mm/640mm-17" S8B(dry) & P2B(wet) full slicks! Its all bitumen right? Apparently they dont bring many s6's or 7's in...its all too soft for aussie tracks All seriousness, ive got falken 326's and they have been good wet and dry...ive got no complaints...on a 33 gtst.

And if you have any fabrication skills you can make your own..just measure the width and length of the hex faces and draw it out or just scribe it onto a piece of steel and cut it out and weld on a handle or just make it outta one solid (billet) piece. Cost ya nothing if you have tools and some scrap steel/ally or a mate who has access to those things. Then you can feel all manly cause you did it yourself and you can show off your engineering prowess. I would....but i use the drift and knocko trick as well.... (slacker) Last C spanners i saw for sale were at jambo for one it was 50bux...annodised ally....so 100 bux for the set...abit exxy...but i think everything is these days.

Your not referring to the offset castor on the driverside wheel to allow for australias tapered roads. If thats it...then thats normal if a suspension place has changed the castor bushes or done some sort of alignment on your car...maybe a previous owner? Stops the car from pulling to your left normally. Thats how i interpreted it. Or have i completely missed what youve said?