r33_racer

i wouldnt think a 25 or 26 head would go onto a 20 block cause of the bore sizes. 25, 26 and 30 have same size bore...but a 20 would be a fair way smaller you would think.

not really. the o2 sensor is generally always just behind the turbo near the shoulder of the bend.

IT, I thoguht everyone here would be a hands on trady at least Nerds are shun from car stuff arent they??? or is the world growing up nowadays? good to see i guess!

Is it the std turbo? You said its all std so im assuming thats true. Check if you have an exhaust wheel, or any wheels for that matter? Not boosting, then its prob turbo related if everything else looks good on the outside.

Join the QRDA if you wanna run cams events, Start doing short circuit, get your lvl 3 and run long circuit events, run hill climbs, sprints, super sprints at warwick or qr, stanthorpe and gatton (dont need it for sprints obviously, maybe for warwick??). It depends how serious you wanna get with racing. Wanna have weekend warrior fun, stick to the sprints. Its a sure safe way to have fun in your road car. The other point is most peoples cars probably wont pass for most cams events due to lack of modifications. Generally you run a full out dedicated race car for most serious cams events. But people like that predator guy with his black road registered r33 who races in 2a closed sports cars. He tells me he drives to the track and wins every race and then drives home again. He even stated that in the article in HPI or whichever magazine it was i saw that article. So people with road cars do race in serious cams events.

Petroject mate or i think they are called Automotive Service Solutions now. Ph: 1300 30 40 60 if that aint right check the yellow or white pages online. bosch z32 afm i think this is the part no# for it F00E000202 the bosch number. Cheers mate.

not too many exhaust shops carry mandrel bent ally pipe. And if they do it normally aint cheap. But for mandrel bent m.s pipe i found your local truck spares to have the best price.

You try hittting the unlock window button on your master controls on drivers side. I know it might sound stupid, but sometimes peoople hit that button and dont realise it and then cant get the window to go up thinking its broken when really its just been locked whilst in the down position. If thats not the case pull your door trimming off and start poking around, i think the skyline windows are mechanical scissor arms not driven by plastic gears and wire pulleys like on silvias and 180's. See if everything looks ok. If your not sure open up ur drivers side and compare the two. Maybe the motor has burned out or maybe its something else.

Yep the whole ignition section through the guts will be full of water. Let it dry or get some compressed air and blow it all out until it dries thats probably the quickest way or try and soak it up with some rags. I find compressed air works quick smart.

I just use an intermediate tap and start tappin the bush until it it goes right through and then as its winding through the thread it pushes against the back of crank and pushes the bush out. No mess and no fuss. You just need to make sure you got a wide range of taps to suit different size spigots bushes. Sometimes if your lucky you dont even need to tap all the way through, it will bite and spin after a few turns and you can then pull it out. That actually happened last time we changed the clutch in the race car. Took next to no time. Lucky.

Last time i checked, i think its 4 x 10mm studs from the manifold which the turbo bolts upto and that has a pressed tin gasket which i have never seen leak yet, infact ive reused mine twice now with two diff turbos. But you will need a screw driver to bend the locking tabs back and then a 14mm ring/open ended spanner to undo the four nuts. Will make it easier if you drop the exhaust, oil and water lines and prob intake side too which will let the turbo fall off and you can get to the manifold to turbo gasket. The heat shield is a bitch with like 10 little m6 bolts everywhere which is a 10mm spanner if yours isnt already removed. Ive noticed that alot of manifold studs break generally always at the front and rear without alot of people even realising it. Its a common occurance so be weary you dont lose too many, cause it will eventually break through the gasket and start chuffing. good luck if its your first attempt.

498hp on std rb25...mate that is impressive. Now we just gotta wait for someone to come along and say 'thats a load of the "proverbial"' What sort of knock you getting on your current tune?

Yeh i replaced the two front wheel bearings on my old 180 cost me about 60 bux all up. CBC FTW!

R33TOM, its more then likely the actual spring rate...check out SKs thread and get him to work out your spring rates...you will find they are way too stiff, hence the stiff bumpy ride, the shocks are half descent with the damper adjustment. My money is on the springs need to be changed to probably half of their current lbs per square inch.

Map sensor goes into the powerfc via a plug. solenoid gets plugged/wired upto the factory solenoid plug/wires once oem unit is removed. Its alot simpler then it looks.

yeh a nylon compressor wheel i believe and ceramic rear like every skyline turbo. answer is to try and get a powerfc or something so you can get it tuned

legally your supposed to have it plumbed back into your intake...however who abides the road laws anyway. Just go from both covers to the can and block off to your intake and the top release which you are using atm.

go for the option b and get a 33 25. more parts from wreckers available as you know and generally more stuff for sale on here for them also. If your gonna chuck a bigger turbo on it, it will spool up much the same on the neo as it would the plain 25t. The differences your talking about here are bugger all. If it were a 26 or 25/30, 26/30 you comparing it too, then shit yeh we would say u would be insane to sell up. Overall the cheaper it works out to be, the more money you will save in the long run to spend on other things for the car.

your battery isnt loose or there isnt a bare wire somewhere that is earthing out and shutting car down?

mate i think u need to fly SK up north get him to tune it on your tuners dyno lol...if anyone can fix your problem its him mate. The man is worth his weight in gold easily. Personally i reckon you should go for that injection kit, if it works on your mates 375kw supra it should at least help you reach your power goal on the rb. you only had like what 30-40kw to go. Or wait for god knows how long till you can get higher octane fuel. Mate times like this i bet you lived in brisbane (for the fuel ofcourse). Good luck with this hey, its dissappointing to do that work to your car and not get the power you want. Breaks ya heart.

Ill take it as external gate version mate. When can you have it ready?

more or less yes! i have an xs power one and its ss..its gusseted with webs and supports from all runners and the exhaust flange is also the same..pretty bloudy good for a cheap manifold..only prob was the holes didnt line up..i had to die grind the bitches out to suit. They reckon manifolds made from steam pipe are better...which is true..cause ss does get brittle after it is exposed to too much heat. where a high tensile pipe like chromemoly would never crack or break. but usually costs an arm and a leg.

yes...scrutineering...harnesses are a big thing, if they arent at the right angle, they dont do the right job as SK said already. Dates too. Cant be out of date! If its for drag racing, im assuming andra have a rules and regs book like the fat cams one we all have that you would have followed when building certain aspects of the car for drag racing. Safety is always big in motorsport, just like in WH&S. Lets just hope it doesnt slow down our cars and turn us into unionised bludgers!

thats correct..oil in the cooler and lines lower then sandwich plate or oil filter plate, does not get drained, so you then have to drain those manually when changing oil. If you change oil quite regularly then its prob not so bad to just leave what oil is in there when adding new oil.

That funny shroud isnt what they call a twin scroll compressor housing?? block is 38mm higher then std rb blocks. You slot out engine mount bolts holes and let it drop down to clear bonnet if u dont have a forward facing plenum eg greddy/gtr plenum. Or go drift spec and raise the bonnet at the rear.