r33_racer

your jack isnt loose in the rear p.s quarter panel is it?...if uve used it or its come loose it can rattle around.

make one? two 3" mandrel bends and some straight, two flanges to suit whats on the car..prob 2 bolt pattern i think. a few gaskets and your in business mate. Actually i would think since its going into a 240 you might need to make a few parts of that exhaust as it wouldnt all line up.

mate thats the set we ordered for the race car from Superior. Went to go pick em up and he said he sold them to blokes next door or something. They fit the 33gtst with spacers. Why not just try spacers for the 32?

link doesnt work. The original post sounds like its just the diff noise from the change in oil..other people have mentioned their diffs clunk more with redline oil in it more noticably in reverse and or while some form of steering lock is applied. The oil maybe lighter and have a tendancy to increase any diff noise rather then absorb or dissipate it. But from what im hearing here about the clutchs...sounds like its a matter of when u engage the clutch without enough revs it clunks and carrys on also...forgot to mention that part previously. Especially if its a ceramic or brass button clutch..and even more so if its a non-sprung centre clutch.

I can back that up..the kilcoy track which is going ahead full steam behind the power from the HRCC..they expect it to be built late 06 hopefully..at least the basics anyway...track and some facilities. Should be a really good track. The best of everything!

Hey what category of racing is this exactly? Cause up here running a gtr is a no no. gotta be rear wheel drive only.

bloudy hell...thats some topshit oil.

Have you checked for any leaking hoses or loose piping. Maybe cracked vaccum lines or water hoses. Is the car losing coolant? Checked ya plugs? Checked ya coilpacks? Fuel Pump? Fuel Filter? What was changed or done at last service?

you try twisting it left and right and holding it at a point for a lil while and let the built up tension try and twist itself off.

yeh if ur clutch doesnt have a spring centre to damper the grip of the two faces when releasing the clutch it will send a shudder or jolt down the drivetrain line which in turn can cause something else to engage too quickly or too roughly which may cause the shudder your experiencing. The spring centre is purely to help take up some of the initial jolt when the clutch is released. Makes for a smoother drive normally. My car has a sprung centre and its beautiful, the race car has no sprung centre and its really jolty and clunky, makes you think something is wrong with gearbox when u release it.

v6 commo motor(buick) 250X-flow from oldschool falcon turbocharged boxer engine from a beetle or a kombi (maybe nonturbo) ca16de from an exa i could keep going...would certainly make you different and stand out! yeh.

not to be rude or nothing...but ill say it straight rather then beating around like everyone else. it sounds like a wank and i am a trady, with a family full of mechs and engineers and i probably wouldnt bother with such a large hassle..even minus the labour it would be expensive and time consuming. Just thinking about it, almost everything involved would be custom, even moreso if its a toyota motor. you might have half a chance with the infiniti v8. engine mounts, gearbox mounts, tailshafts, diff, manifolds and exhausts (will it all fit, high mounts or some superwide mounted turbo setup to suit a t70 as they arent exactly a small turbo. engine is already super wide from V config of engine) I was gonna suggest running turbos up front, as ive seen that in some drag and race cars...but you would need a clutch fan, and a big ass radiator to cool the thing as a twin turbod v8 would run rather hot. thats just the start of the list off the top of my head in the last min. But it sounds like a great idea mate....Just a side note..How much for the rb25 and gearbox mate? I need em for my race car. Cheerio.

getting about 1.2ltrs per 1.1kms at morgan park on the weekend. rb25det with about 350hp @ rears...almost always on boost...martini 110 race fuel...expensive shit..and we went through it like no tomorrow..used about 80-90 litres for about 79 laps. lol 150 bux per 20ltr drum.

4 degrees retard...will reduce lag alittle i think...helps flow more gas/fuel but wont increase power.

powder coated hey. I know some people who hpc coat them...comes up pretty good. should look very nice. Also mate, just wondering where did u find your v8 throttle body for the plenum. I could not for the life of me find one anywhere, and had to machine up an adapter plate to suit the std TB. Cheers.

classic dipstick popping...haha im sure weve all seen that sign before a rebuild. had that in my old ca18det and rb20det.

I made one out of ally for the racecar...used some scraps of flat bar and just bent em and tigd it up to suit something similar to the ones you buy. But i dont think anyone would do that for their actual road car...would have to be more presentable i spose.

you run both grounds into the single earth on your loom and wire air sensor to air sensor and 12v power to 12v power. you split your one earth on the loom into 2 for the plug. I wouldnt leave it hanging. Should do a search about z32 afm wiring...was a big talk about it a few months ago.

where the hell is albury?

where is it located exactly?

your running a fairly high tech multi valve turbocharged motor and your gonna run a mineral oil in it. Mate its not a commo or falcon sorry gm/chev/ford. you wanna give it a good sporting chance by using full synthetic oil or some form with the right viscosity. You may even have to use a slightly thicker grade if the engine is a little old and worn.

ya std intercooler would be much of a restriction if your turning up the boost to make more power? People generally always go bigger fmic as a basic upgrade..improve cooling and removes restrictions in the piping to and from tb. a/m ecu like powerfc!

i was informed by SK that the jspec s15 injectors will fit the 25 rail. sards fit, however u need to rewire the plugs and use the collars as previously mentioned. abit of screwing around with them and you gotta make sure u get the right orings with them as sometimes u get all sorts for some reason. And ive continously read that nismos are direct fit no stuffing around...they seem like the best option.

man alot of rude mexicans around here these days. lol

Putting the rest together and then putting it back in and hooking everything back up is the FUN part! Hooray. Then you will get it tuned and it will kill ya waiting to drive it. Leave the tuner in a nice cloud of white smoke all the way up the street....ohh such a good feeling when you got bulk power on tap Cant wait till you post tuning results.