r33_racer

well im sure that comment will help fix his immediate problem. lol.

sounds like gasket. replace both of them while ur at it.

or if hes financial enough...why risk it?, full rebuild...good excuse for it! I find people like the idea of being forced into doing something major to their car like a rebuild as the situation demands it rather then electively choosing to do it. Tell your gf/wife oh the motor is shagged gotta rebuild, got no choice and you act pissed about it but smile when she turns around!

the chart looks like most bush turbo dyno runs...mine is much the same. power goes ..weak.weak.weak...slightly better then weak and BAM balls to the wall!!! and skyrockets to redline pulling all the way...mine made similar power to yours about 260oddKW on 17psi. That was on a chinese turbo which has now ceased up after 4 months of use so now its ballbearing time:)

a set of cams would add the power and let you make more power without so much boost. i wouldnt think a std headgasket would hold up on such high boost alone. I believe the general consensus is that 300kw is borderline for internally stock rb25.

high flowing is not such a bad idea...all the internals are replaced and machined out...you can get just as much power but without changing anything like exhaust, ic piping and intake. water and oil line will all bolt back up again also. might be an option. but a brand new turbo is always good to have.

goto a bolt and nut store and grab ya self four exhaust lock nuts to suit the studs and you wont have anymore loose nuts.

Heres a trick, get some proper exhaust lock nuts. If the ones on there are coming loose, then they are not doing their job. I reused my old genuine gasket, the steel folded one that came of the factory mani. More times then not ive found that the nuts are incorrect and if it comes even slightly loose the gasket has no chance. Is it an a/m mani?

mate, your way of doing it is completely different as your car is a gtr with twin turbos and your solenoid pos is different. I got a single turbo with ext gate. Ive wired it up and it seems to be good so far. My problem has been solved. Good to see yours is also wired up and now plumbed up correctly. The ninja booklet provided has the right details and drawings for different setups for plumbing of the solenoid. Cheers.

Jealousy and lack of respect. Thats all it comes down to. The new generation of kids and teenagers these days are brought up without much parental input. There is no discipline anymore, its grounded and no t.v. Shit, i remember when i was a kid/teen if i stuffed up, old man would beat me down with a leather belt, wooden stick, cord, spanner or whatever was available at the time, and i learnt quickly what i did wrong, there was no such thing as a grounding. Being raised to respect other peoples stuff, and general law abiding was apart of the discipline. Kids these days have completely missed out on that part of life. My old mans a mech and he loves his cars, first thing he taught me was a mans cars his pride and joy...never F U C K with a mans car...period!

Well if you know what ur doing and have some mechanical knowledge you can make the cheap kit work just fine. As stated you shouldnt need to use the thread tape. If all the fittings are done up properly and checked they should not leak, i have installed two of these kits from just jap and had no problems with either of them, and further i know of two other people who have them and also had no problems then the ally bungs for the filter relocator. So the kits themselves arent bad. Its normally the fitting that will play a role in how good or bad the end result is. grigor you sound like a damn fitter and turner.

Id say if you dont get ya shit back soon, you prob wont at all. Cause hes not gonna be around for long. He's off on a nice government funded holiday for a few years soon.

rb20/25 is t3.. ca/sr is t25 flange they are different.

If the clutch was slipping, you should be able to smell it. Would be pretty noticeable.

those ally bungs are reliant on the tight thread and the thread is just sooo loose. They have a recessed area behind the hole for the oil pressure/temp probes for gauges, so no there are no seats, or tapering holes. Someone might have to verify that, but im pretty sure its just a tight thread to seal. Apart from that problem, they are an excellent kit for the money spent. All the braided lines and fittings are the tapered seat sort and they seal perfectly. Ive had no dramas with mine.

coincidently i needed no thread tap on any of the fittings at all. Only tried them on the bungs with no success so i tried what i stated previously and that worked for me.

about a litre more i think roughly of oil is needed to make it level again. On mine, i had to drill out those holes for the ally bungs and retap them oversized and i used some other bungs i had in the garage and locktited them in. I would top up with oil asap. Then as soon as your home get ya car up on jacks and then check every hose and connection in the system. My money is on those shitty bungs. I was impressed greatly by the kit as it came with everything, but those bungs were the only things to let the kit down, so sloppy was the thread and it just didnt seal, with and without thread tape. Hope ya dont stuff ya engine driving home with little or no oil in the system. Especially if its a fairly large leak.

answe would be get a proper front mount. If your gonna muck around with fitting and refitting, you might as well do it right the first time. Do a proper one, like a hybrid as stated on your car.

I installed one of those in my 33. Check the oil filter relocation block, and see if those two ally bungs are leaking. Cause i had trouble with mine, the threads and taper locks were really poor. Apart from that, i had no worries with anything else on it, no lines were leaking. Put the front of your car up on jack stands and have a look from underneath, and you will soon find out where exactly it is leaking from. hope ya find the leak

my map sensor plugs into the powerfc pro with a 3 pin plug. The solenoid doesnt plug into anything. It has a generic two spade plug, on the end of the xtension lead. The wire colours are infact the same as in your photos. So yeh, it is different to yours, however it is on a different car with a different powerfc model. I will try the wiring of the solenoid lead to the OEM lead first and see what shows from that. Cheers.

ill check that...would make it even easier again.

sweet mate..cheers for that.

Ok under that sticker i posted up from the bosch box, is the actual part number which i discovered when peeled back, thanks to DaleFZ1 for pointing out it wasnt in the photo. So for everyone that doesnt know, the bosch part number is infact " F00E000202 " My apologies about the stuff up. That should actually help people now. haha. Cheers.

i know where your coming from, but im pretty sure there are no provisions for a plug on the hand controller itself. Only thing i can think of is wiring up the apexi solenoid plug to the factory plug from factory solenoid. On another note, just watched some oldschool bathurst moments from 1980's onwards, and go the skylines, 91' and 92' richards and skaife, won both years. Woot!

Is that the 50 lapper endurance race on? Cause im sure i heard from someone that theres an endurance race on or is that at Morgan Park? Sometime during nov im positive.