r33_racer

yes i get the same sorta shits with the search here also....you look through 10 pages of results and it gets you nowhere closer to what your looking for. so you start a thread and then they tell you use the search lol...catch 22. not fun.

Yeh depends where you got them from. I had a few 550 sards that had different o rings and i had to get them swapped so they would seal properly.. one smallish one at end, one medium sized one in the middle and that one big bugga at the top under the collar. I think thats how it went. also when i got mine, all the o rings were in the wrong place on the injector and had to be moved to suit. easy enough to use a scribe or o ring seal remover and move them up or down. hope that helps.

most likely not...i believe all electronic boost controllers are in metric form...it would be .6 bar of pressure in kg/cm. i think .6 would be like 8-9 psi?? Is that a correct anyone?

GCG have ya oil and water kits too, designed for 3040 for rb25. something like 300 bux i think.

How would there be oil and coolant all over the place if you drop it into a catch of someform..ie bucket, oil tray.... If that really is a problem, dont you have any rellies or mates houses you could do it at?

use a high torque drill and go real slow with a nice sharp drill bit and descent pressure and take big bits of swarf...and tap with nevercease/grease on the tap to pick up any swarf from cutting thread. bolt/screw size - pitch = drill size as a general rule of thumb. Might help. 120 degres for drill bit also...put two nuts together face to face and that angle will be about 120 degrees. Few little engineering tricks if ya stuck.

ITS are reputable american company...not dodgy like the chinese ones youve been seeing around the joint. Innovative make good turbos theres another thread around here on them.

I believe SK uses one too. a t66 not t57-1

what duty cycle are inj at? 120%?? about 320hp or 240kw for stocko injectors @ treads. maybe your leeeaaanning out? maybe dyno dynamics in shootout mode is a little more giving then your realistic power? who knows. eitherway thats nice power.

ive noticed when your used to your own car if its only milded modded and a mate takes you for a strap in their car and its much the same it always feels quicker. My mate takes me for a strap in his s14 occassionally and it feels like it pulls harder then my 33...but i axe him every time no matter what. just what your used to i suppose.

thanks...yeh im pretty sure the reading was 400mv with ign on only. Dont know the idleing value lol cause it doesnt last long enough. Thanks for the extra info though....will be trying again tonite.

Ok so i wired it all up...pluged it in and changed the the air flow setting in pfc to 80mm vg30 afm. Now car starts but doesnt idle, just dies after firing up. What could the problem there be? This is on a s3 r33.

prob a combination of those things...but im fairly confident stock inj max out around 240 rwkw dont they? Maybe its that.

yeh good luck with it all mate..hope it all works out.

Hopefully you will achieve the goal adequately then. I think the general expectation is that every a/m manifold made is required in everyones mind to be practical, easy to construct/fit, relatively cheap (-1500) and will increase response, hold more air, flow faster and distribute air to each runner perfectly even thus satisfying almost every aspect of 'the perfect plenum' for every situation. Cause most tyre kickers want their car to drift, drag and circuit to the level of D1, Top fuelers and v8 supercars which wont ever happen. However maybe in 10 years when fuel costs $10-15 a litre, the perfect plenum will be available, when were all driving around in oversized remote controlled cars! Hope it works out for the car its going on..would be good to see any sort of info on it when its tested out.

That is true, and true again, manifold subjects are very controversial and debatable...everyone has their different 2 cents. Parts like that can either lose power or help make it or reduce restrictions but there is always another area to help make more power and there is generally no perfect one item that will give power through every range of testing..eg big HP turbo with NA response

std one will shit it in mate.

You do realise that sanding welds smooth takes away a good portion of its strength? That material looks about 10-12mm thick in most places, you could have mig welded the whole thing, except where you welded the runners to the flange i guess you prob tig'd them on. or did youz tig the whole thing together??

yeh take your line to enzed or pirtek and say hey this is a problem...fix it! For a price they will, normally not too bad and they do a good job. Might make you up a stainless line with the banjo fitting for block and the right size banjo fitting or other for turbo.

This may help..it may not..i bought 1 z32 AFM off a bloke who had it on his rb20 in a s13 with the stock rb20 computer and it ran fine just a few bumps down low with the power. But he reckons it actually ran ok and was driveable. Im not 100% but arent the rb20 and 26 computers similar...if thats accurate then that might be an option with your q45 afms and it might hold out temporarily. Just a question here...Why dont you just try and run it with the q45 afms and see how it goes? or have you tried this option already? Think you need to call out to Cubes or Sk.

I would think you might feel the slight gain in midrange...but not the overall decrease in power. Drive ya mums commo or falcon for an hour before you test drive your car after that work...mate you will think its bloudy awesome then with massive power gains everywhere!

more then likely they are all the same. Have you had a look at the wiring and plugs from there and around it. You said there was a ticking sound, i didnt know alternators made a ticking sound. You sure you arent referring to the starter motor that was ticking away?

First step is normally 20 thou over isnt it? then second rebuild is 40 thou and then third is 60 thou over. I believe you normally only over size bore to those sizes if there is a lip or excessive wear in there.

Your 33 is just a normal gtst isnt it? It looks like a s2 with some wild body kit and massively pumped guards. If it is a 25 then you will need the injectors for the power...the turbo will make it easy. Std internal limit is about 400rwhp. but i dont think anyone recommends going over 250-260 rwkws, So i would think pistons are a definete, maybe rods also. I know camshafts will help reduce the massive lag you will have with the turbo. If your only chasing the 300 rwkws a smaller turbo will do the trick and you wont lose out on so much response, unless your only after the high power and top end approach.

I think normally 400+ before you need to change it. But then again i dont know if that particular manifold is suited for a 3 litre engine... But im pretty sure the general rule of thumb is a minimum of 1.5-2 times engine capacity for plenum capacity.