r33_racer

People use the hpc coatings for pistons...so they must hold up pretty good...i know they do alot of race cars and drag cars cause theres genereally a pantec parked in their lot every month or so. If your keeping the heat in...i would think since the flow is going towards the exhaust and outwards then it wouldnt sorta reverb back onto the head and block...but your engine is constantly being cooled anyway...if anything it would simply be decreasing the cooling job of the coolant making its job a little harder. Every jap race car i see has their manifold completely wrapped. Good or bad thing? Gotta find a middle ground for everything, less heat radiation and improved heat energy flow or excess heat and wear on engine and attached ancillary items. Overall prob doesnt make a massive difference. Only massive difference is ofcourse decreasing the under bonnet temp as stated already. But for wear and performance issues prob not so much.

i believe u can get whats called a marine grade resin cored solder...and i think i got it from bunnings or super cheap i think. Dont quote me on that though. maybe jaycar use dodgy stuff or maybe im full of shit...any sparkies on here who can clarify? Cause im sure cubes and myself only want the best for soldering in automotive wiring.

Is your turbo high mounted?? Problem with mine is the afm is too close to the turbo and the blades chop up the air around the sensor if its too close on deceleration and the idles starts playing up...you need a minimum of at least 1 90 bend roughly between turbo inlet and afm..put some distance between the two. If you dont have a high mount then im not sure what the problem could be..maybe ur idle control valve needs cleaning or maybe theres a electrical fault...wires or plug??? Might be worth looking at.

Yeh the resin cored solder..it runs right through the middle of the solder wire.

I was refering to the difference in processes...not the actual flux for wire and flux for brazing...my bad again...i assumed you would understand it from my view...i really should explain things more clearly. -like heating up job then wire and dipping wire in flux and then brazing -applying your flux pen to the wire then pooling the solder and letting it attach itself to the flux coated wire. both manual processes -while just pooling solder with flux in it and letting it attach to the wire. more simpler process...but each to their own!

i would also like to know on hand controller for rb25det s2? and how long it will take to be delivered? Just the hand controller thanks.

I think the one from behind the block actually goes around to a hose and it gets its flow from the exit of the plenum coolant line...i think. Can someone verify that? Cant recall exactly when i removed the plenum. Not positive but i think the drain line is the one going to the side of the block??? Someone might wanna check that too.

Yep tailshaft...maybe try and source another one to see if its any different. Or take it to another balancing mob and see what they say about it...get another opinion. The blokes your going to now might be on drugs and off with the fairies.

yes i use flux cored solder also and it works fine...flux pen thats like oxy brazing and having to dip the wire in the flux before welding...messy Thanks for the offer crazy_boy but i should be fine on this one...just wasnt sure what the go was with the wires but i can use a multimeter to work out earth and 12v supply cheers.

can it bolt on to a gtst r33 boot

do u have standard brake lines from master cylinder to calipers as im removing the abs system

Haha even better...will do. Thats what i call forward planning! Something my father is still trying to bash into me, lol mechanic vs boily....whose dumber???

Ok maybe i can rephrase my question in more detail...can someone help with the wiring from the three wire plug on a r33 S2 to the z32 plug please? Sorry for the vague question.

Are you kidding...Do it yourself, learn how to overcome these sort of problems...you will be better experienced for the next round and you will have 300 bux to spend on something else. Dont be quitter mate. Cause you know what quitters do? THEY QUIT! hehe i watched pacifier the other nite Dont they come with instructions for installation to aid first timers?

will the poncams fit s2 motor without any problems?

Maybe someone knows what wires to wire it up..as i have the z32 plug...anyone know the wiring of it? Ive looked in DIY section with no real help there or maybe im too noob to understand it.

Im fairly confident hes in brisbane....Too much lag for the ceffy?

or some other low alloy steel perhaps??? What OD is the piping?

I think your limited to about 1 bar with std 33 turbos...some people claim to get anywhere from 170-200 rwkw. I myself with the std turbo only had after a tune about 170 odd rwkws and that was on 1 bar..beats me how people with same mods were making 30 more kilowatts...suppose diff dynos can give varying figures.

Yes it will render it useless as any turbo that requires an external gate normally has a circular exhaust outlet with either a special flange to suit or a v band clamp. That in turn means a new dump pipe and possibly front pipe to suit that and to allow for the exhaust from gate to enter it unless your going for the screamer effect - VERY NOISEY! Normally if your going for the diff turbo..maybe high mount manifold and ex gate..then a custom job is the way to go.

i need one asap. Can we pay for these with credit card?

already sold to me sorry.. picked it up tonight...bout an hour ago.

where is it located?

where u and parts located?

where is it located?