r33_racer

The welds on the last manifold pictured look like they were done with a mig. If they are all made that way then it would cut down on weld time which helps keep the costs down.

Thats abit shit mate. Gotta pull it apart now and get it redone properly. When you do get the crank out, see if you can pull it off by hand.

The collar shouldnt be loose even without grubscrews. It is supposed to have a 0.002" - 0.003" interference fit. Collar is heated up and then tapped on with a drift soft enough not to damage it and then let it shrink on. Once done then you drill, tap and grubscrew it as a secondary lock. The collar should butt hard upto the front face of the main journal and stop just before the recessed groove that leads to the snout with key way slots. If your collar is loose, then either the crankshaft grinder stuffed up or the machine shop specified the wrong size when they mic'd up the ID of the collar.

The joys of doing everything yourself! It takes time! Good work mate!

Collar must not be fitted correctly if its sticking out further then normal. Get it checked, or post up a picture of it so we can see.

If you are using std con rods & rod bolts I would keep it to 7000rpm max. Even if you have aftermarket internals with factory balancer, I would still probably stick to 7k.

I dont tune...but I have on several occassions with our race car when diagnosing problems on the dyno. We have a 1/8th npt bung in the collector on our manifolds so its possible if a problem occurrs where back pressure is the suspected culprit.

Have you measured the exhaust back pressure in the manifolds before the turbos? Im not refuting the valve spring theory as that is most likely the problem, its always the silent killer that people overlook. But is it possible that maybe the intake to exhaust pressure ratio is getting out of hand also (around 2:1 or maybe closer to 3:1) hence why the 25psi runs are going silly... Unless others have achieved greater numbers on similar setups with these turbos with no backpressure issues.

That vertical post that comes off the pivot point can be raised higher and then bolted again. Just a matter jacking it up higher and drilling holes to suit and then bolting it. It is difficult to turn using the wheels at each end, but its easy when someone actually lifts the car body in the centre. For the work we are doing, we dont need to go any more then 90 degrees each way, which is easy enough to turn. Going further then 90 is quite difficult due to that big offset from the pivot point.

Far out...thats quite substantial!

Love it!

Did it end up making the target boost by the rpm you were anticipating?

come on!

video?

Nice work! Does it have a mental induction note/whistle?

Its about a 4mm spacer for the cas. lol made that mistake when I was 18! Use a stethascope or long screwdriver to try and pinpoint where the noise is coming from...

Dan,did some crude measuring with the vernier and it seems the wall thickness is about 4.5mm. I took off 2mm(0.080") so you would be left with 2.5mm wall in the relieved section. However if you did the regular 1.5mm (0.060") clearance you would have 3mm or thereabouts.

Cant remember off the top of my head. I can check it tonight and see. Im guessing you mean the oil pick up gallery thats in the picture?

Looking good mate! I am extremely envious. I want to build up a 240z now

Lol yeh I do go overboard a little sometimes.

As you can see, its not alot of work to do and your not really removing much material. Rumours are always good for a laugh

lol.. Well i did the prep work to our block for the 3.4 and the amount you remove isnt much at all. About a 0.080" chamfer at the base of bores which is more precautionary then neccesary and the oil pick up tube needs about 0.060"-0.080" to allow for stretch so the rod bolt head doesnt hit the tube wall on the first three cylinders. That is all the clearancing required. Its pretty basic and nothing overly critical to block integrity. I will take a picture to show.

What makes you think it might not?

Thanks for the finding on those gtx3076 results mate. We will crack the 400kw mark easy...we run on methanol.

The manufacturer normally gives you the suggest LCA. I guess that would be on the cam card also?