r33_racer

Roy, out of curiosity what was the wall thickness on your trust manifold?

Hey Simon, The cracks, any chance they were around cylinder 5?

Have there been many results with the gtx3076r around the place?

The good thing about mild steel is it is more forgiving when being heat cycled. If it were stainless, then it would definitely be a problem, especially a thin walled section like alot of the cheap manifolds have. The common failure point is almost always the heat affected zone, not so much the welded joint. Atleast thats what ive noticed on alot of manifolds that have failed. So long as its apples for apples comparison then definitely, a properly welded joint will outlast a joint that has defects.

The term you guys are talking about is having ample "reinforcement'". That weld, though it has a small amount of undercut and not enough reinforcement will probably still be fine. The beauty of the buttweld fittings is the beveled edges already, so you get a good amount of weld in the the V joint already. If it was a square edge butt weld with no prep then I would be abit worried.

Spool 3.4

I will tell you all how a gtx3076r goes in a month or so on the stroker build. I have heard of an sr20 making 400rwkws on E85 with a gtx3076r but running big boost, around the 35psi mark.

Do you get a cam card with the Tomei camshafts? If so do you know what the IVO, IVC, EVO and EVC degrees are?

Get it repaired.....

We finally got the HR up on the rotisserie over the weekend. Took a while to make up attachments to suit the car, but it worked out pretty good! So she works and works well! Its considerably stable when rocking it around the place without the base beam to tie in the bottom of the frames along the length.

My god that thing will be a monster! Im excited!

Thats pretty much it.....only thing I can say is every engine is different and sometimes for reasons we dont all fully understand. Some things work really well on one engine but not on another thats near identical. We went from a stainless job to a 6boost and we picked up a buttload of response and power...others have done the same change but not seen the same improvements... The joys of modifying!

Precisely, which is hard to achieve given the limited room in the engine bay. Hence why welding your wastegate intlet off the turbo housing is alot better for boost control as you can get it almost perfectly inline with exhaust flow. The collectors in those pics look all over the place too. The entry for 1 & 6 look like they are facing at 45 degree angles to the direction of flow that the other 4 cylinders are facing...So its not a typical merge collector where all cylinders have the same entry angle. From that point of view those manifolds might have ok boost control due to the entra turbulence inside the collector, but that would typically mean a less responsive less efficient setup.

very nice!

dubz post..

what hp are those things rated at?

We should put in a plus/minus variation to allow for ahhhh... dyno discrepancies, yeh lets call it that... say +/-2%

Come on....get the results up!

Can you explain why it will breathe heavier with a tighter second ring gap? All the race engines I know of run a tighter second ring gap and our ring manufacturer strictly recommends a tighter second ring gap, about 0.002" per inch tighter then the top ring. These engines dont suffer from any breathing issues and all have less then 2% leakdown. These engines typically run between 8.5k - 9.5k rpm also. I was taught running a looser second ring would encourage it to breathe heavier as you are letting the bypassing pressure get into the crankcase easier. The other reason why you dont need a looser second ring is it doesnt run as hot as the top and because of this it doesnt grow as much. Thats what I was taught anyway and is my 2 cents.

You could glue the shims in with a high strength loctite. Re-check the tappet clearances after, they may tighten up a 0.001" or so but thats neither here nor there.

If the drivers side of the crankcase can breathe adequately and your blowby/leakdown isnt shit house then you wont have the oil control issues. 20% leakdown is rebuild time for a performance engine. Might be close to acceptable for a stock street car....no way is it even remotely acceptable for a high powered street/race car. Leakdown should be less then 5% after a refresh/rebuild or even lower. If you have high leakdown and consequently alot of blow by then you wont ever cure the oil filling your catch can issue. I will post my mspaint drawing again...

If only such a female existed! I believe they are quite rare...

Definitely a head off job if you want to do it properly, otherwise you will get swarf in your oil system, that much is certain.

Its on hold atm. Busy working on the race car and helping my old man work on his HR build. Add a gf into the mix and there just isnt enough hours to get much done lol. I have supercharger pulleys machined up and ready to bolt on and pretty well everything done, just need the time to start fitting/hooking it all up!

Impressive!