r33_racer

Stroker designed for people who still want a revy race engine

You can only go so far when tunnel boring to modify the main bearing clearances though. There is a limit on how relaxed you let the crush go when doing this. From memory I believe you can only pick up a few tenths, otherwise its grind or polish to achieve anything else.

Its all finished mate. Just hasnt been used yet. Sitting at home waiting to have a car dumped on it. You want to be weary of how close the body gets to the frame legs under neath it when its all up and swinging around. So long as thats all good then you wont have any other real issues to consider. It would be better to be abit too high, then not high enough and have to modify it later on down the track.

Yes. That sounds familiar. Going to work today to finish off some stuff for my twincharge car! Then keep drinking when I get home tonight!

I would probably put a new fuel filter in it too if you ran the tank right down to nothing.

Ive seen that picture somewhere before. Very tough setup.

about 9kg heavier then rb30 block. pretty well what noel said. They have extra casting in the bottom end and walls are considerably thicker. Perfect for monster hp.

Thats a fair point.

I applaud you on the amount of effort you are going to test everything. Its something alot of people dont really do properly. Kudos to you sir!

You reckon the ultimate rear housing would be a divided tial s/s concoction? Im sure the tial v band s/s housings must have some benefits other then easy attachment to the manifold and stainless to retain thermal energy.

Not too sure to be honest, I think kyle told me he gets them from the states. Im sure he said its from ATP. I suspect it is this one http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-080&Category_Code=GTX But I will find out for sure next week when it all turns up.

It looks like someone has taken to it with a carbide burr in the first one! Or build them up with some weld and shape them back. But it would be easier to just have them removed or shaped as deshrouded areas.

Its amazing how nasty the insides of the ports are, both with casting marks and machine marks. Good work on cleaning them all up mate! You can get the catridge rolls for cheap off ebay and from a few online american stores. Same with carbide burrs. Stuff here is so damn exxy!

Yeh I agree with you there. Unfortunately what happened was the manifold and turbo was originally intended for just a regular rb30.....then as things often do, the plan changed. Using the 3.4L was an afterthought and not initially intended for that setup. But we are going to try it anyway and see what happens and then more then likely throw the gt35r with a .82 divided rear on and see what happens. Like I was saying its going to be interesting! Its always fun to try new setups.

Hey Bobby, what size holes are in that flange for the exhaust studs? What sort of clearance does John allow for expansion as the flange grows? Im curious to hear his thoughts as usually you start off close to size in the centre of the head and then the hole clearance grows as you get closer to the ends of the head.

Yeh its for the race car lol. Gtst circuit car. Using a new 6boost split pulse manifold with gtx3076r 0.82 divided rear, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, 25 head with solid lifters, gtr inlet manifold/throttle bodies. So its going to be ultra responsive which is the plan with this new engine. However, if it is too much so and runs out of legs real early then we will throw the 35r back on with a split pulse housing as well and see how it goes then. Either way its going to be interesting!

I do 9.5mm with a cordless hand drill. Very simple and easy. You can go 10mm as that is the hole size in the head gasket.

You really should do the valve springs with those cams too. More so just because of the possible valve float you could have when you start winding the boost into it. Then it will be another job to do and more time off the road. May as well do it when you do the cams and then it cant be a problem.

Currently have our rb34 underway atm. Hopefully have it back next week ready for assembly. Wont be until early next year when its ready to run though. I must say the quality of the kit is astounding. The crankshaft looks mint.

nothing is ideal in the backyard lol.

Bingo! Thats the ideal way.

Well I had a go at guessing lol. This will be interesting to see! Just like every other bit of this build!

You get the basic mechanical setup, no electric actuating. Just turn the handle and away you go. It is the easiest to setup and use and is the most reliable for track work.

This pic will answer your question The red lines drawn on the inlet are approximate anti-surge slot locations to be milled out?

They are very simple to setup and you can buy them direct from canton. http://www.accusump.com/ Quite a cost effective solution to keep oiling issues under control when you start getting serious without going to the expense of a dry sump.