r33_racer

Do the radiator system test with the chemical to see if there is combustion gases in the coolant. Mental blank, cant recall the exact name of the test.

If the can is plumbed back into the sump there wont be any funky stuff going back. The oil will just do a loop, though if everything is setup correctly you wont need the drain anyway, thats just a bandaid fix/precaution. Other thing I forgot to mention is to have atleast 2 x big breathers on the can, atleast 32mm inlets. You want the can to not become a restriction, needs to be free flowing. Oils are up in the air. Some people run synthetic, some run semi and others straight mineral and have no dramas oil wise. You would have to do constant oil analysis reports after every track day to see how the oil is handling the load and slowly breaking down to find out which one works the best with your setup (you might find a cheaper semi or mineral oil will be fine for your engine). More often then not most people change the oil after several track days anyway, even though the oil is still good enough to keep using(usually just out of precaution). Why spend big dollars on oil that is changed frequently when a cheaper semi or mineral oil will work fine with the same short intervals. The cost of oil adds up quite quickly, even more so in race cars when you have big sumps with oil coolers and external filters with -10/-12 lines everywhere adding more capacity to the system, quite easily upto 10L, so you need to buy double what you usually would. The top end synthetic stuff is already stupidly exxy and some of them arent even compatible with E85 which is quickly becoming the fuel of choice for track cars. Do some research and look into it before buying the most expensive oil you can get purely because you think it will be best for your specific setup.

Good size breather can (1.5-2L capacity), I would definitely do the sump if you are going to be pushing the car on semis/slicks, a -12AN vent from inlet side of sump above oil level to breather can and if you really want run a drain from catch can to exhaust side of sump, if using std pump dont worry about the restrictor. Dont worry about the MLS headgasket and studs, stick with standard and bolts.

Roy, that post is spot on!

It seems that a GTR in rwd form, purpose built that way would more then likely be better then a straight gtst. Purely due to the car having a better all round setup from factory. Slightly wider track, provision to run bigger wheels/tires which is quite important. This is severely limiting in a gtst. The most obvious one being the stance of the gtr makes it looks a hell of alot tougher then a gtst! But in the end, if you have enough money you can make any car quick or quicker then your competitors, then you just need the skill to drive it. So eitherway is achieveable, Comes down more so to whats going to give more benefits for the least amount spent on it.

330 wide dunlops?? They are very fricken exxy!

I would go to a different workshop. Its not going to spin a balancer or destroy a pump if the engine is built correctly. If you are going drift/track work mainly I would definitely invest in a good harmonic damper and probs go external oil pump. Two main critical things since limiter bashing is no doubt what will be happening. Good tune too!

Zing!

Loving it! Love the pictures, love everything about this build!

Tig an alloy bend on there, boom! Job done

Surely not banned! Thats abit much, just for being a top bloke!

lol that video is awesome. It would have been better if her tits did flop out of that open top!

That would be awesome to see!

Wow, I made mine from billet mild steel and it took me a good couple of hours or more to turn them in the lathe. But im sure his lathe skills far exceed my own by a long shot! I made mine like this. Were his similiar to that maybe?

Yeh plus the head ofcourse. Good that you mentioned that bit otherwise some people may not even think to do it lol. It is easy to get excited and miss simple things like that!

Very nice stuff there Bobby. Im assuming John machined those v band rings out of a solid billet of stainless? Because that would have taken ages to do!

From memory I think the holes in the headgasket are 10mm so its pointless going any bigger then that anyway. Factory size is 8mm. So you are only opening them up to 9mm-10mm.

lol, that is no doubt the smart thing to do.

Weird how going to the race track gets your blood going and the need to mod your car grows stupidly out of control! I love it!

Dude that is cool. Nice work!

I would really like to put as much boost through it as possible and see where the 35r's limit is....I wonder if 700rwhp can be achieved lol.

I would have to check the printout, I have a feeling it was around the 8-9 mark, the scale started at 9 and it was below that lol. Actually, its not as bad as you think it is. We were on the dyno all afternoon, probably 3-4 hours straight and we only used about 20 litres. I filled the tank right to overflowing thinking we would chew through it all, came home and tank was still 2/3rds full.

Yeh it did it quite easily too. If we can get it hold the 23psi to redline, I would reckon it would easily crack over 600rwhp. First run it was at 17psi which for some reason it could hold to redline, Im guessing back pressure was at an equal level to intake pressure so the wastegate could manage it at which it made about 510rwhp. Then I changed the spring setup to a 24 psi combo and it only went to 23psi and bled back as I was saying in the other post. But at only a few psi more then the previous run it oozed out another 80 odd hp which was unexpected. The great bit about the alcohol is the car stays nice and cool, water temps stay in check, oil doesnt get warm enough which is actually abit worrisome and the inlet manifold is cool constantly with the fuel rail chilly. It is amazing stuff.

I added it to the original post sorry. Still half asleep lol, left details out.

That blows....So time for a tig? Or you already got one?