r33_racer

Our race car cracked 441rwkws/592rwhp the other week. RB30DET 6boost mani w/ gt35r 1.06 rear 45mm progate. STD gtr plenum & throttles adapted to 25 head Domed CP Pistons Custom ring set Spool I beam rods Kelford 264in/272ex 10.2mm Light Port work 1mm oversize inlet valves, 2mm oversize ex bosch 2000cc squirters Running off gate pressure cracks 23psi by 4000rpm from memory and then bleeds off down to 19psi by redline @ 7500. Peak power is around 6500rpm at about 20psi. Need to hook up and setup a boost controller to hold 23psi to redline. Not a bad effort for a 35r. I will try and find the printout, though I think my old man has it somewhere. Sorry that was using straight methanol.

Thats a good idea! Will make it way easier to fab engine bay bits and pieces up!

Yeh even though mine was bolted it still warped a little. It wasnt that bad, but i still got it surfaced anyway so it was perfectly flat. Though im pretty confident mine buckled the most from when I welded it on the inside of the runners to the flange. I highly recommend the test fitting Chris. Lol, I didnt properly test fit that sump I made and there were some little dramas when fitting the engine back in the bay. I was too generous with how big I could go towards the subframe....so yes I pulled the subframe out and *adjusted it* so it all fits nicely now

Thats a nice nugget of a turbo. They journal bearing??

Nice. Thanks for the fix mate!

Im a nub when it comes to these fancy turbos. What exactly is this thing rated to hp wise?

Cats are stupid, you always have the wrong size for the power and it becomes a restriction, or its fallen apart and clogs up the show. I really dislike them!

When I did mine, I tacked up the turbo flange with some rods to hold it where it needed to be so it cleared strut tower and what not when in the bat. Once that was done the rest was done out of the car on a dummy head. I did have to test fit it a few times during tacking of the runners to ensure clearance and whatnot, once that was good it was go for gold! One thing I did learn was once you have everything tacked up and you are about to start welding it all, make sure you have a good solid base mounting plate for the head flange to bolt to so it doesnt want to warp. Say some 100x100x6mm wall. Then try and tig as much as you can while its all fully tacked up, except where it meets the flange and collector. Then break off the tacks holding the runners to the collector and flange and finish them off and then refit them and weld them on in such an order as you dont stuff yourself for access to other areas. I may or may not have made some silly mistakes like that when I made mine, but hopefully you can learn from that! Hopefully your manifold will turn out alot better then mine mate!

I had a look at the mufflers, the actual muffler shell is about 2-3mm bigger then the actual 4" in and out of it, so there is no real lip to catch so to speak. Suprising how compact these mufflers are. The flex pipe in my setup is actually quite high up, from what I can see at the moment, the lowest part of my whole exhaust is at the base of the dump pipe where it comes out from the firewall. But, if I do make some kind of shield around the flex pipe, it may look like a cat! That could come in handy lol.

This should be interesting with the turbo on and in full swing!

No I didnt actually, but thats a pretty good idea incase that becomes an issue. The last muffler didnt catch there, but that was only 3". There is a good chance it may happen now with this 4" system. I will look at that tonight!

We are all hanging out here Bobby......need updates! Getting withdrawals.......

lol, IF IT kisses any speed bumps. Im considering bumping the ride height up a little bit too, as the tires scrub out sometimes. Maybe another 15mm rise in height will help prevent that from happening.

Nice work Chris. Do you have a mill handy? When I made my collector I used an indexing head/chuck and angled the head whatever degree merge it was I wanted. Actually I think it was about half of what I wanted. Cant remember now lol. What merge angle did you run with? Around 15-18 degrees?

Yeh its come up pretty good so far, alot higher then I imagined it would be, however when I let one of the zip ties goes holding it in place just before the first muffler, that may all change abit. Im still using the factory rubber bracket off the gbox, you just cant see it too well in the pictures. Flex pipe is just added security I guess.

Ah ok. Lol, so single 4" all the way from turbo right? Thats what you need!

Its got a 2J or the v8?

Thanks. Or you could bring it up here lol. But I might struggle, the exhaust is on the wrong side of the car in those damn toyotas

ok ok lol. Here you go. Sorry about the poor visability, but there is a lack of light under the car for the camera.

Congrats on the results! Thats great you guys found the problem and sorted it out there and then and got it tuned! At that time I know alot of people would just give up and leave it for another day! Top effort!

So long as you drill with a small pilot first like a 1/8" or 3mm it should go straight through easily then just open it up in steps. The weld in bung I have here required a 1" hole for it to drop in and rest on the shoulder of the boss. If you dont have that size drill bit, then go as big as you can and use a die grinder to open it up. Drill with slow speed and plenty of pressure. If you have someone handy to help they can be squirting water onto the end of the drill bit constantly so it doesnt heat up too much and go blunt. If you need to buy some drill bits, get some cobalt bits that are made for drilling harder materials. That will make your job easier.

Well actually ive been working on the 4" exhaust since yesterday morning. Upto the last bit under the sway bar and upto the rear muffler! Then I can drop it all and tig it all up. Ill put some pics up soon of what ive made so far.

I got a cooling mist kit for my car as well. They look like a good bit of gear for a reasonable price. I imagine you will get yours hooked up before me, im keen to see how it performs on your car. Keep us in the loop

I wasnt saying you were incorrect. I agree with what you are saying. Im just stating for general knowledge that a 4" system is roughly good for 1000bhp before it starts to become a restriction. In saying that, you would probaby want a larger dump and then 4" from there back where the gas has hopefully cooled enough to not occupy so much space. In reality if you spent enough time working it out you would build an exhaust system that almost constantly steps down throughout the whole length of the system to keep gas velocity at the ideal speed. So you could make a 3.5" dump or even 4" and then just run a 3" system from there back and it could support more horsepower then just a straight 3" turbo back system.

Yeh was just checking, as alot of people run aftermarket main studs and dont always get the main tunnel honed to bring the tunnel back to round when it distorts from all the extra clamping force.