r33_racer

Its a toyota, im sure it can take it!

so ca, vg and rb lifters are all the same. so that means that option is available at a reasonable price.

Its more a personal preference. We used to do it years ago, but got lazy and dont bother anymore. You can use still use the Gtr bearings with no issues, you just wont be able to take advantage of the extra oiling provided by the extra holes.

Those clearances seem a little loose. Sure its not the other way around? Or are those the factory lash settings? We run 0.010" on intake and 0.013" on exhaust.

Its your CAS bracket.... Ive never seen one break before, or heard of one breaking for that matter. Was it like that when you pulled it off the engine?

lol im sure you wont die before I get it done. Finished mounting the new intercooler and nearly finished off the new charger outlet piping which got destroyed when I removed it off the charger...that threebond sure sticks lol. Weve been working on the race car for the last few weeks so there hasnt been much time to get my own shit done Hopefully tomorrow if bathurst doesnt catch too much of my attention I will be working on the exhaust!!!

stainless ftw!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1818588 Rock auto sell new 300zx hydraulic lifters for quite a reasonable price. Im sure I saw somewhere that they are the same as rb25 lifters. Hopefully that might help.

Still running the hydraulic head, hence why tip height doesnt matter as its taken up by the bucket, however, yes wrong retainers appear to be the case in my situation as the majority of the tip heights were all well below the retainer when fitted. I should have fully explained what the deal was. I was lazy as It was already in the other thread.

Really? So when the bucket is pushing on the retainer then that has no relevance ever??? Interesting....

That was me who had the issue. It was a supertech rb25 hydraulic head valve spring upgrade kit. Had springs, retainers and spring seats for exhaust side. The retainers were out of spec slightly, when fitted the valve tip heights in relation to the retainers were all over the place. It was an easy fix, just had to refit the factory steel retainers and problem was solved. Other then that the quality of everything seems great! Not sure if it was mentioned yet, but apparently supertech makes the tomei kits, so you are getting the same bits anyway.

No I had the blower all on, but I also had the engine mount on and done up. Otherwise yes, it would be a nightmare if I did it anyother way lol.

He got a little carried away with the rb30 for the race car and forgot to put the grubscrew oil restrictors in! Only remembered when he was fitting the turbo to the exhaust manifold. Had to take head and surrounding shit off to fit them! The two 6mm holes would have drowned the head in oil for sure lol.

lol ah it is funny. The hyundai is hilarious! If I listened to the old man Mike, I would be leaving oil restrictors out of the block! Hey dad????

lol. dad stay out of my build thread!

lol yeh i know what you mean there. Id be screwed if my old man didnt have a shed full of tools!

I am drooling at that thought right now......You know my uncle has a couple of drums of methanol in his shed.....the 99.9% pure elf racing indy grade stuff! Just need to fab up a 200litre tank so I can make it to the shops and back! Quickly worked out the numbers. 60psi would be piss easy to achieve, 0.7bar from the charger and 2 bar from the turbo. Boom 4.1bar = 60.27psi

I used air die grinder with a big round burr for the open areas and then a smaller round burr for getting into the tighter areas. Also, if you are using an air die grinder get yourself a regulator if you dont already have one that lets you adjust the airline pressure. Set it low, like around 30-40 psi so you can just hold the trigger flat out and it will maintain a usable speed. Makes it alot easier on your fingers since you end up doing it for hours at a time. I got a rubber band and held the trigger down that way. You may need to play with the air pressure as all die grinders are different. Obivously make sure the burrs you are using are for steel, not ally too.

Virtually all piston & ring manufacturers state that ring clocking setup these days. I think it has something to do with keeping the top ring gaps near the inlet valves to keep ring growth under control or so im lead to believe, but the rings rotate around anyway, so it doesnt really matter all that much. My old man said the samething to me too when i was doing my engine as I was going off the total seal clocking chart which looks identical to the CP one you have there. He was taught to assemble like the nissan guide is showing. But everyone has a different idea in regards to their orientation. They all work fine!

Cool. Well it seems like the logical way to go to try and maximise power while trying to keep the boost to a slightly sensible level. Otherwise I will have to run the car on straight methanol to take advantage of the super high boost and not have detonation issues! lol. You should move here now....its starting to warm up quite rapidly. QLD likes to skip spring and go straight to summer!

Yeh it will be interesting. No idea when though, but im more curious about what the peak power will be and whether the charger will be a restriction or not. Just going to have to wait and see.

Cheers mate! I am trying to go all out on this one!

Andrew, Yeh im still working on it...slowly. That is correct mate, I am slowing the blower down, well trying too anyway. Im attempting to get somewhere between 7-10psi out of the blower, but space is going to prevent that via pulley sizes unfortunately. I can only go so small on the balancer due to the bolt pcd and supercharger can only go so big because of the idler pulley placement. I dont know what the maximum boost could have been before as the belt was slipping to the shit house. It peaked at 19psi with that setup. But the sprintex calculator pulled a figure of about 30psi, but I doubt that it is accurate, even though they have said they can run that much boost. My own thinking is tracking exactly with your own on this. I would like to run low psi out of the charger and just play with the turbo psi inorder to achieve more flow as the turbo flows atleast 50% more then the charger, otherwise I would be running 50psi by trying to utilise the turbos higher flow capabilitiy. Is that what you are thinking too or something along those lines? My base calculations at the moment are telling me that 10psi out of the charger and 10psi out of the turbo will net me about 28psi post charger, due to the compounding ability of the setup. Though I would rather less then 10psi out of the charger and make up the rest with the turbo. Yeh I am planning on hooking up a boost gauge between the turbo outlet and charger inlet to see what will be going on down there You should move to Brisbane mate then you could come see for yourself....and maybe help lol.

Ian going back to your comment about the grubscrews, I drilled mine on the lathe with a hss 1.0mm drill bit and it drilled fine. I did two of them for my rb25dert. However my old man did one yesterday with a hand drill and a cohss 1.5mm drill bit, drilled like butter. I have a feeling that high tensile steel grubscrews are not as tough as they used to be! They are quite abit softer then you think...its actually a little worrying lol. Anyway back to the build, nice work with the engine mate. +1 for the hylomar too. I coated my factory headgasket with it, its good stuff. Cometic recommend a 50ra or finer surface finish as for how much variation in deck flatness they can seal they dont state anything about.

Alright! Got all the lines finished off and inlet manifold on and the rest of the junk bolted on. It took a few hours of fiddling last night, but she is in! Thank god for that!