r33_racer

I will take some tomorrow afternoon when I get back to it. That is possible. Do you know if there is a difference between rb25 and rb26 collets?

Well knowing my luck its probably just me that got an out of spec set. The kit looks good. We also have a solid lifter conversion kit too which looks great.

Yeh I will do that. But I dont have time to send them back and wait for a reply and or new set to be sent out. I can either make new ones myself or just refit the factory ones which seem to fix the issue which is my quickest and easiet option. In case anyone wants to know, the factory retainer weighs 12.97g and the titanium retainer weighs 8.21g. Thats a good 4.76g saving per retainer and 114.24g saving overall!

I still reckon that leak down is no good. Usually anything over 10% is heading close to rebuild territory. Does the leak down show any of it coming from valves?

I got a set of Supertech RB25det springs and retainers to suit hydraulic lifters and I just installed them all and found an issue with them. Im using standard valves and collets and with the kit installed, Ive found that the majority of the valve tips are not protruding above the retainer. Maybe 10 out of the 24 are protruding, though varying heights which isnt too much of a drama as the lifters will take up that. But the rest of them are all flush or below, some quite abit below. One that was particularly bad I fitted the factory steel retainer and the valve tip height jumped back up to where it should be. Some quick measurements show the titanium retainers dont have the same taper in them as the factory items. The taper is slightly larger in diameter so the retainer is sitting higher then what it should when seated around the collet/s. Has anyone noticed this before? Or am I just unlucky and got an out of spec kit?

Exactly right. Hence why I said it is more relative.

Most people dont seem to realise that its the surface area of the hole that is more relative to how much oil will go through it at x psi of pressure, not the diameter. When I worked it out for my engine, 2 x 1.05mm holes (drill holes in my experience usually end up a fraction oversize, .05-0.1 larger) was a fraction less then what 1 x 1.5mm hole will flow.

lol. Still nothing at the moment. I have everything ready to go, just need to find some time to actually do it. Though I will get pressed for it soon enough as my old man is getting ancy to start his HR build!

I spoke to Andrew today about it all. He is a top bloke. We covered it all and I think things are sorted between us. As far as im aware from what we spoke about today they are currently working on the spline drive. From what he said they are in the fine tuning stages to get it spot on, playing around with variations of splines and clearances. Once they get it done it should be a good thing! No pics at the moment, but my brother ceramic coated the valves and combustion chambers on my head. I lapped the valves in again since I ported it as the machineshop tried a new 5 angle job on the inlet and it made some good gains over the standard 3 angle. I would have to check the flow figures, but from memory I think it picked up around 10CFM. Was pretty good. But I need to get a standard head flowed so I can compare it to my ported head! See if I made any gains. However, I now have to get the head cleaned properly before I can assemble it. There is sand blasting grit all through it!

Thats possible I guess. Maybe under squat it is toeing in excessively?? So the toe out is to compensate for it??

How come you changed to some toe out on the rear? Usually that makes the rear want to step out and try to steer from the rear. Typically you would put some 1-2mm toe in on the rear to help drive the car straight, unless drag racing setup is arse about to circuit for some reason im not aware of??? Curious to know mate! But good work though! Just need more runs and you will slam those times!

Gerg_R31 he means in the side of the head between exhaust ports 3 & 4. There is a 1/2" 14TPI bspt thread which usually has a grubscrew in it, you can pull that out and use it as a drain back to the sump since it is actually the lowest point on the head, purely because of the 10 degree lean the RB sits on towards the passenger side. Obviously you dont just screw them in dry, you need some sealant or loctite to hold them in properly and stop any potential leaks

I see. Well thats a little dissappointing to hear. I just cant comprehend how some people can think two flat rings butting against eachother can be expected to seal properly when all they have is the clamp to align and compress them. Half the time when they get welded onto the exhaust tube they distort a little anyway which doesnt make its task any easier. You really need the male lip and female seat to align them and seal up similiar to a slip-joint, nice snug fit at room temp, soon as it gets to operating temp expansion creates a nice mechanical lock and seal.

Yeh Mafia is right about the torque for those studs. ARP states 80ft/lbs which is about 108nm. You have under torqued them if you did it to 88nm. If its the head, sometimes when they cut the seats, they dont seal properly until the engine is run for a while and then they come good. Unless ofcourse the valves were lapped in before assembly.

If you have an external mic, I recommend a dial bore gauge. Get a longer one if possible so you can get into the centre main, unless you can get one that has a small head on it so it fits between the mains with enough room to rock. If you dont have an external mic...then I'd recommend that too.

I appreciate the response Andrew. Im an easy going guy and very understanding, especially when it comes to engineering and manufacturing as I work in that industry myself . I dont get annoyed/pissed off very often or easily for that matter, but unfortunately this occurence was enough to really tick me off past my usual threshold as the fault had the potential to do serious harm and thats what led to the rash decision to get another pump and bring the issue to light in my build thread here. I admit I could have handled this more professionally and contacted you directly first, but I was not in the clearest mind set that night or following day. As I said above Im not here to run your product into the ground, it appears to be, for the most part a good pump as alot of people are running them without issue. I simply wanted to inform people of what could have happened if you dont take the time to be pedantic with everything during a build as it is possible for people to make mistakes. There is a factor of human error in everything. But as I've said above, its the oil pump or heart of the engine, if it has a problem, your whole engine has a problem. It has to be 100%. Had I not inspected the pump and put it on as your instructions stated is acceptable there is a chance my motor could have died and I dont like taking chances. Anyway once again I appreciate you taking the time to find my thread and make an appearance and statement regarding the matter. My own apologies to you for any immature and silly comments I made previously whilst in my hot headed state.

Thanks mate. You are dead right about the v bands. There are vbands and then there are vbands made properly. Not many seem to make them properly. But its good to see the Japs do them right with their exhaust systems. Yeh well I need the most oil flow I can get with the pump and from what figures I could find the Reimax has the highest. So thats my reasoning behind that choice. Though I will be pulling that one apart and inspecting it also as my paranoia has only grown now. You just cant be too careful. I could be the only one that had that problem with that pump. No doubt there are alot of people running them with alot of success, so there is no real reason to think they are all like that. There will always be some human error with anything assembled by one; missed a problem, didnt clean it properly or whatever. Which I understand perfectly well as we all make mistakes from time to time. My annoyance comes from the fact that it is an oil pump and it is really the most important part of an engine and there really is no margin for error with something so vital otherwise there is the potential for engine failure. In most cases when people are fitting these pumps to engines, they are expensive builds otherwise they wouldnt be using one. Anyway im not bagging them out or anything like that. Mistakes happen. All I want to preach to everyone here is make sure you check everything yourself if you are in a position to do so, not just an oil pump but with everything. Engines are too important to make mistakes with.

It was very shocking! I was not expecting that at all.

Mate you should just remove the cat and "HI-FLOW" it and then put it back on!

Mate, you are not wrong!

Edited.

My old man may be buying one in the near future, but it will be a year or so before it gets run lol.

That is true. Also whatever grubscrews are floating around. Was your thread sloppy with your grubscrew? Im just thinking, the factory restrictor hole is 6mm, well mine were. 1/4" is 6.35mm how did you get a decent thread engagement percentage? Unless your holes were 5mm from factory??

It isnt required but can be used without any ill effects. Done this many times myself with no worries on both new and used tomei, acl, cometic gaskets.

I used m8 x 8mm grub screws