r33_racer

Eitherway will work. But for added safety, you can coat it no worries.

Farkin Tomei!!!!!!!! lol Sweet! Replied mate!

A grubscrew restrictor wont have that issue. Who ever made those ones that are closing up most likely made them too big in the OD. Too much crush!

Havent actually done too much more on it lately. Been busy at work and Ive got my engine back so im sorting all that out to get it ready for assembly. The 4140 50mm pins are turned up to suit. Some locking rings are done which can lock away at every 30 degrees. I had to extend the main vertical post by 250mm to make sure there was enough room for swing. I ah, miscalculated some minor details, but its fixed now. Ive got material cut up and ready for welding for the attachments, but just havent gotten around to that bit yet.

Same, weve used Spool in everything pretty well. Not one issue with them, upto 800bhp. Most of everything these days is made in China, even alot of the big name stuff you wouldnt think is. But the quality is getting better and better now, especially the companies who have their own QA over there keeping things in check.

Yep. Definitely. To pull it out i mean.

Exactly right! People get carried away with run in when its not necessary. You want a good amount of load straight off to get the rings to 'bed in', otherwise it just wont happen and if it does, it wont be as good as it can or should be. And it happens alot faster then people think. Driving around for 1000kms on a safe low power, rpm restricted tune is a wives tale and only slowing down the process. Get a proper understanding how rings work first then you can figure out why thats not the best way to bed in a new engine. Its the same with engines that are assembled with heaps of oil on the rings and bores....just makes it harder to get rings to seal and 'bed in' properly.

Sweet car. The only good chick was the last one mate. The rest dont do nude! That blows!

Thats what I was thinking also.

Hooray! Making progress mate! Good to see.

did you gap the rings yourself? or did the machine shop do that?

good price for a rebuild kit sorry. I meant in relation to your post about the spool rebuild kit for an rb26.

You should pick up some decent gains if you clean up the bowl and throat area. A good 5 or 6 angle valve seat job will help a buttload. Actually anything will be a help over the std 3 angle. I wouldnt port match your exhaust side. Just do the inlet side. You want the exhaust manifold to be larger then the port exit. You need something to help reduce exhaust reversion, having that step left where the manifold meets the head, Thats about as much as you can do. So match your manifold to the gasket and thats all you need. But for $50-$100 bux you can pick up a porting kit with the cartridge rolls and stones and then go yourself. Just cleaning up, removing casting lines and machine overlap everywhere, blend it all in so there are smooth transitions and no sharp edges. Should be good. Thats all I did to my rb25 head and ive got the flow figures. But i need to get a stock head flowed to see what improvement ive made. I picked up about 5-10cfm throughout the range just from the better valve seat job over standard 3 angle. That was suprising. Just a few more transitions and suddenly air flows easier out the valve.

Good price for a rebuild it with the dearest parts in it. Will handle more power then you intend to throw at it.

Looking good!

Not always. What they take off is usually only 5-10 thou. Most of the time it would be less. But thats only a maximum of 0.250mm. So long as you have adequate piston to valve clearance, the extra compression wont be alot or bad. If anything it will make it abit more responsive off boost and help reduce lag by some immeasurable amount. Unless you are building a low comp big boost high hp motor, then it would be a different story.

Dude what an epic run youve had! Good job so far! Cant believe the flooding. That was just crazy unlucky.

Atleast you got there!

Abit scary thinking about starting it without knowing there is oil pressure there. Silly question, but you do have the spark plugs out right and its turning over quickly and freely?

I know you cant drop the factory sump off with the cross member still there. If you dropped the cross member you could do it. Ive tried this before and couldnt get it off while the cross member was there. Might be easier to just pull it all out and double check that gasket if its a big question mark. It would have to be a big leak for it to not prime up.

Did you put assembly lube or vasoline in the pump gears to help it generate more suction? Why did you crank it backwards to suck in oil for? If you put some lube in the pump gears and pulled the plugs and injector lead and just wound it over it should prime normally. Did you disassemble the pump by any chance and forget to do something up or left something out maybe?

Needs more updates with pictures!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats a fair point. I was going purely on how well they do in use. My old man still has some stahlwille stuff from when he did his apprenticeship and its still going strong. You just cant break the shit, put a 3ft waterpipe on a 10mm spanner and it will bend while under load and then bend back. Most other spanners would just break under that load. These spanners would be 30-35 years old now. They are great stuff. The local stuff is pretty good too. They work well under normal circumstances. We use alot of sidchrome and kingchrome at work everyday. Does the job, though I wouldnt say its anything special.

My pick if I could afford some is definitely Stahlwille http://www.stahlwille.com/ Cant beat german engineering! Ahh looking at that site is getting me randy. Think I may have to go on a shopping spree

So I got all of what ive done so far fully welded. I fitted the castors so its now mobile, thank god as its starting to get abit weighty. There was some slight pulling from the welding and the vertical posts where the bushes go are leaning a little backwards. This meant I had to turn up a bar to hold the bushes inline with eachother when sitting in the scallops so they arent out of vertical or horizontal alignment. Seems to have worked quite well. I also turned up some 50mm OD x 55mm long bushes to sit inside the ends of the castor mounts so the side wall wouldnt crush up when bolted and when loaded up with serious weight. I hole sawed out a 2" hole in the top face only so the bushes would drop in and sit on the bottom inside face and protrude by 5mm so I could fully weld around them, due to the obvious space constraints I could only weld around half the bush internally on the bottom face. I used grade 8 1/2" hex head bolts to fasten it all together. Next stage is to turn up the pins and start working on the adjustable arms. Once I get that bit tacked up and I can swing it around I can figure how big I can make the missing support beam from the front of the vertical post to the front bottom beam. This is probably the most critical support which I want to make as strong as possible in terms of how far up and out it can go with out fouling the swinging attachments.