r33_racer

It would probably be easier to just modify the manifold and fit it there. Being a china manifold, I doubt it would flow well to create the need for it to be mounted off the exhaust housing. Welding to the manifold which I guess is stainless, would be far simpler then welding to the exhaust housing which is cast and requires pre heat and post heat and a slow cool down.

Ive used some Ross 25 pistons in a 30. It actually sat low in the bore by abit and we had to skim the block to get the CR up.

Mike, most are referring to the difference from gt-rs to -5 results on that one graph as MrStabby stated. That one is an impressive difference. The gain from fuel change is quite normal.

Cool beans. So thats 6.5L to the high mark on the dipstick, or total sump volume? You would assume to the high line?

Well that makes sense. Didnt think of the friction! Are there actual upgraded bolts for the flywheel? I thought everyone just used factory bolts?

What capacity is that sump?

Definitely highly sexual! The curve just makes the car seem intimidating. If its the same as the first graph then 24psi it looks like?

Thats quite sexual!

I cant see anyother reason why something would be doweled, other then to align and reduce shear loading. Bolts arent really meant to align or take significant side loading, they are pretty well only meant to be used in a tensile stressed manner and in some circumstances compressed. What do you mean by they would just change the bolts?

Im keen too! I will post pics when they arrive fo shizzle. I quickly modified the drawings to better represent what actually got made lol. 4inch Female V Band.PDF 4inch Male V Band.PDF Hopefully that will help. Just gotta be aware that not all the 4" clamps are the same, so these rings might not fit a different clamp, though they would go close.

Thickest ring would be the one with the male lip, and its about 13.6mm or thereabouts.

Probably not a great deal. But it does maintain alignment and take some shear load off the bolts. Nissan added it to newer models, you would imagine there would be some merit to it. Im not saying its a big negative or anything, was just pointing out a difference.

RB30 crank has no dowel for the flywheel.

I can put up the drawings I did. However, I would have to fix them up as things changed on the fly as I was machining them. But thats no drama. Originally I was going to get some made in the CNC, but it was flat out with work stuff so it went this way. I reckon they could be made quite cheap if you started with the right material. As in some thick walled pipe close to the diameter needed so you dont have to bore out 98mm worth of steel. Perhaps some 116mm OD pipe with a 10mm wall would make them quick to machine. Quick clean up on the inside to 98.4mm and the same on the outside to about 114.3 or thereabouts and just the lip and receiver which is 1.6mm x 1.6mm and the 1.6mm x 3mm up the arse for the tube to slip into and the 45 angled face for the clamp to push up against. The longest bit for me was boring out all the useless material in the guts! If you have some basic hand tools, drills, bits and taps its a piece of piss to do. Your own time is free!

Normally bigger cams will drop your compression when you do a test, in comparison to standard. But not that much, especially with poncams. Did you build it yourself or an engine builder do it for you? You did have the throttle fully open when you did the test?

Cheers Chris. Mate if you went to the effort of doing 2 hrs worth you might just push yourself to finish it off lol. Other wise thats two hours wasted. I had a look at the otomoto ones, they are the same generic shit that everyone else makes. The sealing faces are just flat and you are relying on the clamp to align eachside and hold them together, that style leaks easily. Ive used some like those from GCG when I made the headers last year and they were the same shit. After that exp, I just figured its easier to make them myself, though a shit load more time consuming, its cheaper and I can make them properly. Mine have the male lip on one ring and the female receiver on the other. So that aligns them and because they are a nice fit when heated up that will seal internally from expansion. Takes more load off the clamp so now its only holding the rings together. I also machined an internal step on the other end so my 4" tube slips inside the ends of the rings nicely, so all the ID's line up Michael = 1 Otomoto = 0 lol. All the bungs in the head were alloy, I just drilled them with a slightly undersize drill and they would collapse around the drill bit and pull out. Except the vct brass plug in the inlet side oil hole. I got lucky when the drill bit grabbed it and it spun out. I think I used some M6, M8, M10 and M12 grubscrews and some M14's but they were the small frost plugs near the vct solenoid hole. Oh and the Solenoid hole thread is a M18 x 1.5mm pitch in case anyone wants to know. Also the big steel grubscrews in the sides of the head are 1/2" bspt from memory, may need to double check that one.

lol, thats not true at all. They make them upto rediculous lengths. Ive seen one about 1m long, used for big diesel engines.

Pretty well what you find in Corky Bells book about intercooler piping and how to set it up to avoid weak hose connections.

So ive been busy over the last few weeks still chipping away at it all. I did all the oil control mods to the block and its all down at the machine shop atm getting some work done. Hopefully get that all back in a week or so. In the mean time Ive modified the engine mount bracket to double as an extra bracket for the supercharger so its now supported at the front and back and it rests on the original shelf thats apart of the OG bracket. Should be alot more rigid now. I ended up buying some 4" stainless tube to remake the rest of the exhaust. I decided I didnt want to go to all this trouble and then have to redo the exhaust later on anyway. There isnt that much to do from the dump pipe back. So in my effort to 'cheat' again I cut open one of the borla mufflers to modify it to become a 4" one, however the internal perforated tubes only make up the area of a 3" tube, so that stopped me there. But because the dollar is good atm, 2 new 4" borla mufflers delivered from summit only cost about $450! So ive got two new ones coming which solves that little issue. Next issue was not having a 4" flange to go from dump pipe to rest of the system. So I bought a 4" v band clamp from the local truck shop and machined up the two rings to suit. It took something like 7-8hrs total to make them. Started with a 120mm billet and turned it into whats in the picture. What a job! Also got a new 4" thick intercooler to replace my pwr 3" one. $430 delivered from Performance Wise here on the forums. Fits up pretty well the same and the piping lines back up which is what I hoping for to avoid more fab work. Ive also drilled out all the bungs in the head and block and tapped them all for grubscrews. Amazing how much gunk there is behind all those factory bungs! Im glad I drilled them out to clean it all properly. Time to find more stuff to do! Woot!

Or a mechanical fuel pump and just the one electric pick up pump.

Yes I believe they are as we are using one as a lift pump with meth.

Corky Bell's book explains how to work out what size piping and intercooler to use for what horsepower you want to achieve. I remember it saying you need about 1.5 times the airflow to achieve your desired bhp. So 1000bhp would require about 1500cfm of flow. Also there was something about working out piping size based on keeping air velocity inside the tube under 450ft/sec otherwise drag and friction become too much of a problem past that point. It was something like airflow in cfm/ the internal area of the piping and then convert it to ft per sec.

Whats the 2J setup look like exactly? How many splines and do you know what sort of clearance it runs? No doubt its better then our nissan design. Seems toyota also improves on everything nissan didnt Splined from the get go sounds alot better. Im guessing it probably has ample clearance as well, or maybe their cranks are made of better material and dont flex/runout as much?

Exactly! They dampen harmonic vibrations. Only an externally balanced engine has offset weights on it inorder to help balance the rotating assembly, referred to as a harmonic balancer it dampens and balances. That usually is only common in old school v8's like the a 454. Inline 6's like our RB's they only dampen, since our engines are internally balanced. So really its only a harmonic dampener.

Hone yourself? or by a machine shop?