r33_racer

You dont balance the ATI units. They are zero balanced from factory. I believe the Ross units are the same. The Ross damper would be good enough for that power level. Probably much the same price too.

If you are deadset on fixing it yourself, Atleast get yourself a flex hone and clean the bore up with that rather then emery cloth. It will atleast keep the bore closer to round then leaving a flat spot where you would go over the scratches with emery cloth. While you are at it, do all the bores with that and chuck new rings in. If the scratches dont go after a hone, then it needs to be bored oversize.

what brand is the new item?

His question was if its too big. No, its not too big. Simple answer. No there isnt any horsepower loss and lag difference is not even noticeable. We went from a 600x300x75mm pwr gtr cooler to an A.R.E 600x300x115mm gtr cooler and there is no difference on the dyno and no difference on the track. However, on the street its a slightly different matter, but my guess is it wouldnt even be noticeable there either. No the race car isnt driven around town.

Yeh thats true, except they arent. The crank is different to the collar, collar different to gears, and gears different to pump body.

Nope, the core on our race car which runs a 35r is 115mm thick.

Yeh that point is a good one. However, What does the clearance become when the engine is running and everything has heated up and expanded? Also another point is the crank doesnt run perfectly centred at xxxx rpm, there is always a certain amount of runout. Too tight on that clearance and it will be just as bad as not having a collar at all. How much runout there is i dont know, But there is no way the snout is always perfectly centred when your at 7000rpm bouncing off the limiter. But 0.012" is alot, and no doubt it can probably be run abit tighter. But there is no way of knowing until someone who has run tighter can say its been fine and tells you what clearance they actually did run. Or you try it yourself and see what happens. But I dont think 0.002" is enough. Hopefully someone else with more exp can shed some light here. If I was going to machine a collar Id probably aim for about 0.006" overall, 0.003" per side. But thats just my own guess. Without knowing expansion and run out its hard to say.

It does look that way now that you mention it! John sure has some serious skills and clever ideas.

farkin sweet man. That is some bloudy good work! Starting to take shape nicely now. Love the sweet 80's music in the background! Pat Benatar woot!

lol thats pretty much the trick. Fill full of grease and find a socket pretty close to the right size with an extension on it and flog it till it pops out at you! Ive never tried the broom handle. Sounds good though.

You could do it on a 3 axis machine, it would just be alot of setups. Though a 5 axis would do it it in probably only 2. Its crazy thinking he made it on a manual mill!

Vios III Black F/G Graduation Pick Up My order is the other half of neil_se. We are going halfsies. Just so you know whats what Darrin.

My god its a work of art! I love this build... the thought and engineering that goes into this is just amazing.

Im about the same height, though I think there is more room in my skyline. So final decision is the Vios fixed back then?

Looks nice mate. You really are cutting sick for the powder coating! I like it

Ah so they do come with something. Cool. Ill probably just fabricate my own rails to suit anyway. Do you have height issues atm in your silvia? I dont remember you being overly tall back in the days of the s13 club with Jason, chris and the guys. Lol or maybe you are and its just my memory is shot.

I cant tell the difference between the Vios and Zeta seats tbh. They look virtually the same apart from slightly wider shoulder supports. But im not fussed, Vios sounds good in graduation. Mine is also for my street car. So was it clear if there is rails supplied or definitely not?

tooo sloooowww! lol Yeh I could just make one at work in the Mill, but if I was doing alot of them It would be worth while. But for one offs, probs not. You should have a go too chris and make one!

Problem with that is I needed to weld it all on the inside of the flange. There wasnt enough room around the outside between edge and bolt holes. PITA. So inside is only option, otherwise the block trick would be the way to go. Mig would look like shit and it will probably blow through somewhere and leave spatter and shit everywhere. Hate it. Tig is so much better. Lol maybe a nice big 50mm thick plate cut out to use as a base for welding so it wont warp.

Neil. Im keen mate. Im also in Brisbane anyway. What ones were you thinking of?

Thanks Chris. Yeh the flange is 10mm. Lol the very first dry sump pan I attempted I used a 6mm flange and it warped like a mofo. Even the 10mm warps slightly. My advice is a minimum of 10mm, but I reckon 12mm would be pretty good. The steel flange bolted to it is a sump adaptor and even it buckled with the flange. I didnt think it would bow the steel. However the good thing about it is it can bow back to flat just as easy when you bolt it down. My plan is to bolt it to a big straight plate and heat it up to stress relieve it and hopefully it will set flat again!

Well I spent most of this week just working on fabricating a whole new alloy sump to replace the modified factory one I did over the holidays. I wasnt happy with the baffling and capacity it had (only 6.5L) so I started this one and was aiming for 8L-8.5L but its ended up around 9.5L-10L. Im not too fussed about the extra capacity, it can only help. Its the same depth as factory, just a buttload wider pretty well ev erywhere I could go. Infact its a little too wide towards the back where its close to the crossmember and I think ill have to *adjust* the engine mount points where they flare out towards the middle. I will also need to get a custom swaybar made to go around the front of it. Other then those two little issues its hunky-dory. I got two drain points on the exhaust side wing and two breathers on the inlet side, all dash 10. The drain bung is a dash 12. Also there is three trap doors around the pick up, though they arent fitted yet.

Looking great!

Fair enough. So long as you are happy with your setup, thats what matters.

That mesh in the afm is actually there for a reason. I believe its to straighten out airflow before it reaches the resistor wire so it can take an accurate reading. I dont think its really necessary to remove it when it hasnt actually been proven to be a restriction. Plenty of people have made alot more power with it still intact.