r33_racer

You lucky duck!

You can get a front swaybar with a bigger offset bend in it to clear those sumps. I think whiteline sell them...

I was taught the gas velocity has to speed up as it is forced through a reduced section, the increased velocity would generate a low pressure area in the 45 cut tube which would draw airflow through it. The faster the air passing over it the higher vacuum generated. That link Chris put up explains it better. But it tracks pretty well with what ive done.

Cheers. I hope someone elses tries as well and does it better. It is alot of work and alot of time. Projects always are more involved then what they first seem lol.

Yeh that is pretty well what I did. Used a white out marking nikko.

Yeh I did some reading and looked at what pictures I could find around the place to give me an idea on what to do. I didnt go reshaping ports or anything like that. I just matched the inlet manifold and head to gasket and just cleaned up the casting and machining marks. So all ive done is a clean up essentially. If you go and start opening up port sizes and messing with the shape then you could easily go backwards. But I cant really see any harm in what ive done. But I will find out when its all going lol.

I made the EHPS pump mounting bracket this afternoon. It should mount nicely in the drivers side back corner of the boot. So thats one little issue out of the way!

So I finished my backyard porting job. Pretty well just cleaned up the ports and matched the inlet side. Polished the chambers lightly and roughed up the inlet with 40 grit. Did exhaust in 80 grit. I have to admit, it took most of the week doing all that. It gets painful around the guides!

soooo...are the OP and hostess together together (if you know what I mean) or just for this adventure? lol.

Surely thats what you would expect from the bogans on that particular forum. The forum agreement when you sign up surely dictates you must be of the 'rip a skid' kind and be atleast 95% bogan. If they didnt have that automotive forum (if you can call it that) they would equally spread out amongst others polluting them with boganised crap and illegal automotive socialising.

Nice! How much was the ecu?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/External-Self-Adhesive-Heating-Pads,581.html We used this one on our midget speedcar. Works well. or http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dry-Sump-Preheater,580.html That one could be used as well. Just need a 240v reducer to suit.

Its hardly ever the parts that fail/wear out most times. Its how its all screwed together and the tuning. You could put the best pistons and conrods in there and if its not built right or tuned right for that matter too, it will still suffer a premature failure/wear out. Dont get so worried about the parts youve chosen. Just make sure your builder hones the big ends and small ends to suit desired bearing crush for big ends and pin to bore clearance for the small ends. Make sure they are balanced end to end as well. So long as he does his job properly you wont have any issues. Ignore most of the smack talk people say in forums about rods and pistons and the rest of that shit. Half the people have no idea anyway, its usually something they have heard from a mate, or what their mechanic has told them(who isnt their engine builder, though you will find the tuner will blame the engine builder and the builder will blame the tuner, unless they are one in the same). One person will have a bad experience, that expereince will have the cause incorrectly blamed on a certain part because of rumours, despite other people having success with that same part. Suddenly forums are filled with trash talk with no real evidence provided and then you will base your decision on this after reading said forum. And you will throw away hard earned money because you believed it. Its just like tradies and their tools! Keep and use the rods mate. Nothing wrong with them.

If thats not the poster boi for bolt on's and bolt in's then I dont know what is! No doubt all good quality gear. Good luck with Superlap!

Ha ha, found the pictures I was looking for the other day. The pump bracket we make to suit Barnes and Old style peterson pumps. Also found the guide plates we made for the pump drive pulley.

Lol yeh I did, I put it right after a reducer 4" -> 3" 45 cut in the centre. Thats how I was taught to do it as the best setup for maximum vacuum. Hopefully it wont be too much of a restriction.

lol. Farkk, I could have gotten that instead. Ah well. If mine doesnt work I will get that kit instead!

Im not sure I follow what you mean by blue print? The engine during assembly/machining or the head/manifolds? Gasket matching/ port matching is just some light grinding to make manifold ports and gaskets aligned perfectly (or as close too) and then usually doing the head ports to suit as well. Normally you only match the inlet side so there is no restriction when air is trying to enter the motor. On the exhaust however, you want the gasket and manifold bigger then the exhaust port so any reversion will hit the edge around the port and do a u banger instead of trying to go back down the port and into the chamber. So ive matched my exhaust manifold to gasket and they are both bigger then my head exhaust port which I will leave factory size for that reason. Hopefully that makes sense.

Yeh, anything ferrous kills equipment unfortunately. Sucks! Great thing about alloys, shit barely wears out at all. Carbide burrs last for almost forever. Lol, funny you should ask, as Im changing abit actually. Doing the oil control mods properly, block restrictor for head, o ringing block and head if I can fit it in, getting the tunnel honed, bore torque plate honed, crank ground .010" under, some oiling system mods and I think thats it. Probably get piston tops and skirts coated as well. Also decided to do the rest of the exhaust system in 4" to stop these nightmares im constantly getting of too much back pressure. Probs get that just jap cooling pro 100mm gtr cooler to replace my shitty damaged pwr 75mm gtr cooler. The more I think about stuff, the worse this all gets!

I got the motor/gbox out on saturday and the block stripped by late afternoon. I cleaned the block up a little and started abit of deburring of edges and cast marks and general loose crap. I picked it back up sunday after shipping the block, head and manifolds to work. More tools, more die grinders and burrs and most importantly more air supply! After about 6 hours of grinding the block ended up looing like this. You will be suprised at how much casting shit is left in there attached in hard to reach or see places. Main spots I noticed were under the webs where they meet the sump rails and underneath the rails themselves. If you are building your motor, take to it with a die grinder and clean that up. I was quite shocked at just how big some of these flakes were and how loosely they were attached to the block. Today I picked up a port and polishing kit from down the road. Cost me about 160bux, but it has a heap cartridge rolls, mandrels, extensions, rotary stones and buffs which is pretty well everything you need aside from some carbide burrs. I started after work with some basic port matching of the manifolds to their respective gaskets. While at it I got carried away and cleaned up the runners of the inlet manifold using my new tool set, 40 grit cartridge roll and extension. Took a while but it looks a hell of a lot better then the cast finish and its clean again. I also cleaned up the manifold entry behind the throttle body opening. It went from looking like this to something like this That is pretty well it so far. Tomorrow will no doubt be more of the same! Its fun playing with new stuff.

You can hook up an electric pump that can kick in if something goes wrong. However with the right guide discs on around the belt, it shouldnt ever come off unless something seriously big and bad attacks it.

You could get your pins DLC coated and with minimal lubrication should help that problem in the higher vacuum ranges. One possibility, though quite expensive I'd imagine.

Thats amazing work. That guy has some serious skills!

I finished the breather can last night. It was a mission to put together and weld up. Also milled the supercharger inlet bracket flat as it had warped from the welding. There is the one way valve im going to use for the exhaust evac setup.

Yeh I have a hydraulic one way valve im going to use. I just need to modify the spring so its weaker and easily opened as this one has a 0.5 bar cracking pressure. But the rest of it is heavy duty and about the right size.