r33_racer

Havent changed a timing belt recently?

ah yes perhaps he means teflon liner? Yeh correct, i left out the drive rollers need to be changed to u groove typically instead of the regular v for steel wire and a different liner and tips to suit wire size.

I put mine behind the intercooler where the air con radiator was mounted. But that would be an issue if you are keeping your air con.

manual metal arc welding is stick. (MMAW) gas metal arc welding is mig though mig stands for metal inert gas(GMAW) gas tungsten arc welding is tig though tig stands for tungsten inert gas (GTAW) Oxy-acetylene welding is your oxy. so they are the proper terms for the forms of welding you are talking about. Ive never heard of welding alloy with a teflon tip. If the mig can switch to AC then it can weld alloy so long as its got argon gas setup. But teflon wouldnt conduct the power that goes through the wire to create the arc when it connects with the job, so I cant see how a teflon tip would work unless you are confused with something else. 90% of the time everyone just uses gas. Gasless i believe was created for similiar reasons to why stick welding is still around, onsite/outdoors welding.

Even head gasket manufacturers state pretty fine Ra, ive seen anywhere from 50-60 RA or finer, some have even stated 15 or finer. The smoother the better, any protruding ridges from machining marks(noticed more so on rougher finish) will chew the gaskets as it expands and contracts, especially when its wedged between two dissimilar materials. But as everyone else stated, headgaskets blow for a reason. Fix that issue and it wont blow again.

I made one up simliar to the one in the picture thats attached to the girdle and it was on an angled ledge (aligned to the tangent of the cranks arc) and it was like a blade with cutouts to suit crank weights and conrods and it was slotted so you could adjust its length in terms of proximity to crank. I thought it was pretty good! Ill have to find pictures of it. But the scrapers on that website are far better. Maybe they make one for RB's now? Mike, you probably could do that, but in all honesty you can use the standard sump pan and just weld some fittings on it and scavenge from there. The benefit of having a deeper pan is its harder for the oil to get whipped back up into its vacuum trail. The factory perferated scrapers built into the sump pans will work well enough. If you were chasing every last bit of performance/perfection then you would do it all properly! But I believe for the most part, shallow sumps needs better scrapers and windage trays to help keep the oil down near the scavenge points so the crank cant get at the oil again.

Those dailey sumps are quite a nice bit of gear. Pump integration into the pan itself is brilliant. As zebra said, less lines and less fuss, looks clean and tidy!

Hmm well thats not much more then what we are running. Abit scary if we are that close to borderline. However all our little ends have never shown signs of wear.... Hopefully someone in the know can shed light on this.

12mm or 12 inches?

Time for more power Simon! :D

I can tell you that with our 4 stage barnes pump our engine pulls about 10inHg. Whether that helps for comparisons sake to someone elses setup. Also having wider section gears will pull more vacuum. As far as ive learnt in order to actually start gaining a noticeable amount of horsepower from a dry sump system you need atleast 15-20inHg(more so closer to the 20 mark) and a good crank scraper setup to maximise that vacuum to keep the cranks trail free of oil/oil vapour. In v8's ive seen or read about that are running that much vacuum and good scraper setups have seen 20-30hp gains. So being 2 cylinders less you would imagine the gains would not be as much as there are less journals which means less oil usage and spray. It would be nice to know at what inHg does the little end start to starve of oil and then requires piston oil squirters or forced pin oiling from the bigend up through the rod. Then the other question is also when do seals start to suck in?

The way you have described your setup is exactly how ours is on our race car. You shouldnt have any issues with that setup as the dry sump will clear the breathing problem that RB's inherently have.

If detonation was the more likely cause then any ideas on what caused the det?

The idea behind doing it the way Michael stated is to reduce oil return directly into the crank vacuum trail and adding to parasitic loss. The more oil you can keep away from the crank the better. So you would have two scavenges in the sump pan and then one from the head somewhere. So oil from the short block assembly is returned through the sump scavenges and then oil from the head is returned via its own scavenge. If you were aiming for a near perfect oiling setup then that would be pretty close to it.

+1 for the accumulator. They are fantastic. How bad does the crank look? Would a polish clean it up or does it need to be ground?

Oil surge related? Fluctuations in oil pressure during that track day?

npt is predominantly american. it would be bspt.

Ok. So the oil return holes are bunged up except the very front and very back. Interesting stuff. That would certainly help.

What stage pump are you going to be using? On our race car we run a 4 stage pump which scavenges two from the sump pan and then one from the back of the head. We are still using internal draining, though really the ideal would be to weld up all the oil returns and just let that one scavenge do the returning as that would avoid windage induced from oil draining right into the cranks vacuum trail. Has John considered doing something like that already? Loving this build mate. Keep it up!

This is his build thread, he can say and do whatever he wants. If you dont like what he is saying or showing in regards to this build then dont read it and/or start arguments. I think the build is great and it seems this john fella knows what he is doing. The engineering certainly makes sense and the quality is right up there with the best.

Dont pressure and flow go hand in hand? If the pressure drop is substantial then wouldnt that indicate a lack of flow? or something along those lines?

Very nice build. Fantastic engineering going into this. Loving it!

You can use 2P cast iron round bar as a good replacement material to make guides. Weve also made some guides from phosphur bronze which were currently using. However, the last set which was made by another machine shop wore out extremely fast like Daniel is saying. Its weird how in some engines they wear out quicker then normal. Our midget engine uses phosphur bronze guides and its a push rod engine that revs to 8500rpm and has been racing for two seasons with no valve guide wear and being push rod its subject to more valve side loads then an over head cam valve....its my understanding that virtually all speedway engines run bronze valve guides and are mostly push rod. Our mates engine has run 4 years with bronze guides with minimal wear. Weird!

lol yeh i know.

Yeh im not saying to not do it, I run a dual feed setup myself on the road car because im running two pumps. I get the idea behind it but havent read, seen or heard of a necessary benefit from it, so the point becomes more a preference as both ways work perfectly fine. Im referring to a slightly harsher lean out. I didnt mean in a slight amount because of the pressure drop across the rail from front to back which is what i think you may be thinking of. Yes egt's for each runner would be a good way to check that but not everyone has them or a common use for them especially on a road car, though I also have one for each runner on mine lol.