r33_racer

Its not as bad as you think. The pressure is the same from the regulator back as that is the point from which the pressure is controlled. You would only get a pressure drop if your fuel system cant keep up with fuel usage. If that is the case then you would notice that on the dyno as it would lean out. We run a single entry/exit rail on our car with methanol and 2000cc injectors and its fine. We used to run a dual entry but its just extra lines and fittings and ultimately not really necessary from what I can tell.

I thought the main problem with the neo head was you cant get high lift out of the valvetrain. So there isnt many camshaft choices, making it a shitty head to work with, more so when you are aiming for big power.

We have a limp home setup with the autronic if oil pressure isnt within certain parameters it will limit revs to idle only but no shut down. A shut down would be better as it might even save the motor if those conditions come about.

You can run an accumulator if you want. It shouldnt be needed, but it does work well for pre oiling and incase something does go wrong you have some limited back up. In terms of sealing the motor up, its just a matter of making sure any holes are bunged off and everything is siliconed up well with a good sealant. The only other trick I would recommend is to get two machined discs to go either side of the pump pulley so the belt cant slip off. Also ensure there is something similiar on the crank drive side too. We lost a motor due to the belt coming off at the track when I ran off and some small twigs and stones got up and decided to lodge themselves between the pulley and belt.

You still run a breather can from your oil tank otherwise you may have some oil vapour spitting out of the breather line. If you do overfill the oil tank and system you will definitely get some oil spitting out that breather until it finds an equilibrium.

4 stage pump wont pull enough vacuum to create any dramas with wrist pin lubrication. I would be suprised if you pulled more then 10in/Hg with a totally sealed motor. Typically need atleast 15+ to have any small end lubrication issues. Which usually requires 5, 6 stage or higher pumps to pull that amount. Weve run ours with and without a regulator and its made no difference. Best way to check how much is to hook up a vacuum gauge whilst on the dyno and read what it pulls.

nice effort!

Not the whole block. Im talking about just re sleeving number 4 as the OP stated before.

This all went a little off track....

How much does the sleeve and labour to machine and fit cost? Might be the same as just getting another block.

That sounds interesting. They are prices from an american company about 3-4 years ago when I last looked at it.

You already can buy them and they are stupidly expensive. Last I saw it was something like $1200-$1500 per rod. If someone made them as an off the shelf item the price may be better. If you had lots of money you would just get alloy rods and use them. Lighter and can handle the 750hp range with 10,000rpm indefinitely, might even work out abit cheaper then titanium rods. There would be a market for them if they were cheap, however that will be very hard to achieve since titanium itself is very exxy. Its a shame, because titanium for the most part is very cool.

If it is a sealed breather can with a good filter, what crap are you thinking will get in and back to the sump?

If you do alot of racing on the track does that mean you change your oil more often also? If you do then go for it.

It will be interesting to find out what the deal is if it is stripped.

Thinking about it, you probably could use titanium for alot of those parts but everything would probably need to be casidium coated to work properly. Might stand half a chance then. That is right though, everyone has a different idea on ultimate.

This should help you get an idea.

or one better, nano tube carbon steel. That would be the ultimate. Titanium is great, but its not the ultimate.

I guess we wont find that out until someone does it and pushes it to the limit and finds what breaks. But safe to say if it does and you got lots of money you can always fix the weak link/s.

When you say timing do you mean cam timing?

Whats the dyno say about his power level? lol

lol I meant front timing cover, or cam gear cover. My bad.

Ive reused my old cometic without any dramas. Just some hylomar and it worked with no leaks at all. Same goes with the acl mls gaskets weve used on the race car, many times over with just hylomar and no issues. Any mls headgasket needs a very good finish to get a good seal. I guess the viton coating on some gaskets is better then others or some machineshops dont get the right ra needed. The smoother the better!

Dont run a cam cover.... Gives it that racing look

Guess it depends on if you are going to be chasing more power down the line. If you are, then just make it 3" now and be done with it.