r33_racer

Noel I believe he is looking at making fully counterweighted items later on. Though honestly thats really of no concern to most of us unless you are aiming for sky high revs.

Really depends on the application you want it for....Just like anything else. Seeing how sweet the improvement is in the midrange, its ideal for a circuit engine. Actually its ideal for pretty well everything if you have the money. More cubes can only help, no matter how you best utilise it.

RB34DET Results RB34DET 'vs' RB30DET The RB30DET boost and power curve is in green and the RB34DET is in red A comparison between the old RB30DET engine and the new RB34DET stroker engine is complete. The two engines are identical in every way except for the new stroker crank set up. The purpose of building two near identical engines was the only real way to make a true comparison between a RB30/25 and a RB34/25. We arent trying to make the most power or we wouldnt be using pump fuel and a medium frame old school T04Z, we are trying to make a comparison. Straight from the horses mouth.

Might need to post more details in order for someone to come up with any decent help.

I did look at a helmholtz resonator setup. But a lack of room stopped that idea unfortunately

For the tracks we race on in QLD, anywhere between 500-600hp is ideal. Actually its more like 550hp would be the max you would want. Anything north of that in a gtst is just time robbing.

I will also take a set of solid lifters please if still available?

How did your head drain turn out? The first pics of it showed it to be quite huge. Im sure you turned that lump right down so it will fit inbetween the firewall...

Just noticed how its arse about face! Perhaps some kind of water/air intercooler at the back thats exposed to sea water???

You can do it on a 3 axis CNC mill, it just means alot of setups and jigs to do it accurately. I havent heard of anyone using a 10 axis cnc mill. I was aware only of 5 axis machines which is what most use to manufacture billet blocks and heads and compressor wheels and so on. When I was at tafe we watched a video of a 5 axis machine making some kind of billet turbine wheel. It was huge. The motions it was moving in while the cutter was chipping away at the blades as the bed was rocking around was just amazing. Highly recommend looking at some of those cool CNC videos on youtube if nobody has seem them before!

Yeh exactly. That is the best way. Its amazing just how advanced some machinery is these days. Soon enough it will be one machine that bores, hones and decks the block. Along with almost anything else you would need to do...The only process I couldnt see it doing would be tunnel boring.

You require alot of experience inorder to hand hone with a drill. Its very easy to create tapers and incorrect cross hatch angles. For a quick roughen up after a glazed bore its okay. But it was a real art back in the day before automated machines. I believe the latest machines are virtually totally computer controlled based off load sensors built into the head, it can build a graphic drawing of the bores shape and will automatically take out, out of round and tapered sections. You end up with a perfect bore, the exact cross hatch angle and almost no human involvement in the process. When its done you just check it for roudness and piston to bore clearance. I guess the less human interference there is, the less risk of stuff ups. I think the first process was with some diamond cutting stones that machine the bore close to size, then finer stones for final finish then some nylon pads that give the plateau finish. Quite amazing but no doubt expensive.

lol!

I can attest to that fact about the twin screw. Power control is extremely easy and linear. There really is no lag. At the most, 500rpm. My car idles at 1000rpm and it started making boost from 1500rpm and by about 2000rpm is was at desired max boost which holds perfectly to redline...except in my case it would drop a few psi as my belt slips lol.

Yeh I would also like to know why? I havent been in car with a compound turbo setup, but I have been in a twincharged car and it was simply amazing. I cant see how your suggested setup is so much better? Please explain why it shits all over a twincharged system and how a correctly setup compound system should be?

Regardless of anything. He can do whatever he wants. If he wants to waste a build to learn from it then kudos to him. However I would just do it as std recondition so you can follow the manual. Unless you know better, then go for gold.

Any further developments here? Or still been too busy?

Thats quite substantial if correct. Though I doubt they would handle said power at the recommended clearances. Arent they something like .0015" - .002" piston to bore?

Must be a combination of design and perhaps a higher silicon content in their pistons inorder to achieve those tight clearances and reduced piston slap. Do they have some kind of power rating on the pistons?

One smaller turbo feeding into another bigger one??? That idea is not as good as a supercharger with turbo. You can still have some margin of lag and that would obviously increase as you go up in sizes to match your hp goals. The best part of the supercharger is full boost as soon as you blip the throttle.

Any blower that is side mounted tends to make more noise then one mounted onto the inlet manifold. I honestly believe now that the only way is to run a turbo pre supercharger to help reduce the intake noise. The compressor cover and wheel will help cancel or dampen that noise.

A workshop that has the machinery to do it in house, probably a month or so. A workshop that would outsource the work they cant do themselves, many months. It takes time to measure, design and test fit, modify and refit then finish to be ready for final assembly. That would be working on it almost everyday too.

Yes, StockyMcStock. Sorry I wasnt clear on the who bit.

Exactly! Hence why my rough guess was 20-25 grand. Ive done the suprcharging half of my own car and its cost me about 10 grand so far in parts, though some of it was support system bits. I would guess probably 6-7grand for supercharger related bits, maybe abit more. I just have to do the turbo side of it now, which looks to cost maybe a couple grand more. But so far ive done everything myself and thats what has kept the cost reasonable. If a workshop is doing the job and the word custom & fabricate are used in the same sentence, its going to cost you.