r33_racer

Yeh thats how his was setup. Worked very well! The power delivery was insane. No lag and power all throughout the rev range. I was fortunate enough to have been taken for a spin in it! His car is what initially got me thinking about supercharging and twincharging.

There are no kits available. It has to be all custom fabricated and setup. Its not a popular or simple setup either. Parts are expensive and the system takes up alot of room. At a guess if a workshop was to do it all, I would estimate 20-25K would pull up alot of the parts and labour including fabrication and machine work. But that wouldnt be including alot of the support systems needed. Expensive to do, but the results are well worth it from what ive seen.

Its called twincharging.

Dude. Very Nice! Ive also wanted to do this. Maybe change to an rb30det instead though Good luck mate!

Old setup. New one coming soon. Hopefully before end of the year!

Interesting about the flow. I thought the major belief was that 5 and 6 flowed abit more (or atleast received air first and more of it) and so always ran a fraction leaner as a result, hence why alot of tuning shops richen 6 up by 1.5% and 5 by 1% or something like that. Funnily enough I thought all forward facing plenums were susceptible to that problem by that same reasoning. Did you test this by egts on each exhaust runner with matched injectors? or some kind of flow test on the manifold itself?

why not just use a torque wrench?

70 pounds of boost out of a supercharger the size of our RB's....I think it manages lol

We had Victor Bray at our workshop a couple of weeks ago...he said in their doorslammers, they are making around the 3800hp mark. He reckons its way more then they can actually use and put down to the ground. In their case it would probably have more to do with keeping traction, atleast to some degree.

Lol funny you should mention that, I just pulled one apart an hour ago. First time I noticed them too. I figured much the same; an attempt to direct air towards the runners rather then letting it all gush straight to number 6. I would have thought they would need to be abit longer (protrude in more) to have enough of a difference.

Fark that!!!!!!!! Im with zebra. They are fricken painful to do and I also dont have the patience. Mandrel bends ftmfw! I do remember doing that at tafe, drawing the part and doing the layout for it and then transfering it to a paper cutout and taped together to wrap around steam pipe. I recall alot of frustration. The worst part of all that would be the amount of tig welding.....talk about time consuming.

Well I wouldnt think it would be too hard for him to cut it off and do it properly. Just a shame if its been coated already.

Dont suppose you have some micrometers and a dial bore gauge? I thought cast pistons with high silicon content usually run tight piston to bore clearances. Perhaps its .0014" or thereabouts...

What pump are you running? The only real issue that could arise is your turbo seals if you havent restricted oil flow to it. If thats all good then dont worry, as the relief valve is inside the engine and too hard to get too to try and adjust. If that is even a problem, could just be your standard ops sender as stated above. If you really want to be sure, tee in a oil pressure gauge and find out.

20thou over with a torque plate??? If not, then Id put money on your bores not being round. How come those pistons have such large piston to bore clearance? 14thou seems huge if thats what it is.... However, if your piston to bore is too tight and that coupled with out of round bores that easily can be your piston grabbing issue, poor ring sealing issue and why you were dumping so much oil into the catch can. Assemble on inox or similiar spray lubricant as zebra said. It works well. Dont use oil. That trick was great 30 years ago....once you understand how a ring seals and what happens when you are bedding your rings in, you wont ever drive around for 1000km or do any of that crap again. When you check your ring gaps...if you get to inspect the rings yourself, have a look at the ends to see if they are polished/shiny spots, if he was good when grinding the rings he would have only cut one side if he even needed to grind them. Eitherway the shiny spots are ring butting marks. Also if you look carefully around the sealing point of the rings you should be able to see a fine line thats even and goes all the way around the circumference of the ring. This should be especially noticeable on coated rings. Should tell you just how well the rings were sealing.

Weapon, even if you change to a conventional style manifold setup you may still suffer from the same issue. Get whoever welded the wastegate outlet on to redo it properly. It looks to be coming off at 90 degrees to direction of flow. Should be shaped more around towards the rocker cover so the exiting hole nearly lines up with the exhaust flow into the exhaust housing. As much as clearance will allow. Like this...

There isnt anything wrong with having alot of horsepower. However this whole topic has become about peoples opinions on the matter and it is a public forum.... Eitherway, its all good.

Horses for courses. All the points made were moot about silly engine configurations and all that crap. Different racing styles/cars/sports require different torque/power/rpm setups. Unfortunately there is no such thing as the perfect engine. So you just have to use what you have and try to make it the best you can in the real world. If you know much about racing, the kind that people on our level do, you aim for torque, not peak horsepower, especially in turbo cars like we all drive/race. In circuit stuff generally the guy with the most usuable average power does the best. Then its different for drag racing and so on. But to the real point of this topic, E-wangs would be my response! People like to have big HP figures for the sake of E-wang comparisons.

The testing weve done has shown bores can be out of round by upto a thou + if not done with a proper torque plate. If a machine shop says it doesnt make a difference, take it to someone else. Also make sure you use the same headgasket and bolts/studs you are using in the build when the machining is done. This is important. Abit late in this case...but for future reference.

Thats ballz! Hopefully its all good when you strip it down for inspection.

I thought the graphics for it were really good. Pissed about the delay for GT5 again....

That is awesome. Lol dad just texted telling me all this! Time to steal noel's cylinder head i think...

Very nice!

Well it seems that we are on similiar paths for our race cars then. Our goal is to eventually get to the 550rwhp mark with our gt35r though we already run the 1.06 rear. That amount of hp in a rear wheel drive car is around the most you could really actually use. Unless you can get some super trick suspension setups to help get that power to the ground. Just gotta find the right balance for all of it. I wouldnt be suprised if a split pulse setup actually helps the response abit more then what it is atm. By alot of comparisons that seems to be the case and in theory it makes sense.

Yeh I cant think of too many ways of achieving the 550/600rwhp mark with a gt35r, maybe a good split pulse manifold for starters, some wilder cams, though that will no doubt make the power more peaky which isnt really where you want it, but if you dont lose any low-midrange power then I wouldnt complain. Another possibility is one of those forced performance turbos with the billet comp wheels. However they are pretty exxy. And well a stroker of some description would definitely help with everything!