r33_racer

Still a great achievement there Noel. Its the response thats going to help out the most. Good Work!

Come on Noel! How did it go?

Oh yes the smell is terrible. Some telfon lines are definitely needed! Unless there is some sort of insulation sleeve or tape you can wrap around the lines...

I was under the impression every 90 was worth about 1psi. Only way to tell for sure is to monitor pressure at turbo outlet and then at the manifold to see overall drop and work it out from there.

Yeh you are right about the exhaust. I do have access to a big one that is probably around that size which is currently on the race car. But its the inlet noise thats number 1 on the list and what im mainly focused on. The joys of modifications!

Unfortunately nothing has progressed yet. Its been on hold while we are working on the race car. We're not allowed to work on more then one car at a time in the shed. Too easy to get bits n pieces mixed up and there isnt enough room. I was considering trying to fix up the drive only and see where it goes, however the biggest problem at the moment is still the noise. My honest opinion is that twincharging it will cure that problem, atleast better then somekind of heavy duty airbox and another muffler/resonator or two. I really dont want to pull it all off and then have to do it all again.

Yeh it gets warm. But you have no choice when there is no aircon at all. But 42 degrees is certainly getting up there. Kudos to you for putting up with that!

Your not going to go racing around the track with aircon.....surely?

I guess the aircon is a problem for alot of people who are used to modern day comforts. However, if you are building a wild car/engine, such as the one in this thread then its really not that important. Having a near bulletproof oiling system that can handle stupid amounts of abuse is

There really are only pro's for having one. Who needs or wants air con anyway?

Probably sucking from the sump and then feeding into the front of the main oil gallery that the pump would. Then oil flow can just continue as per normal. Looks like a good setup! Just make sure you get some anti run off guides for the pulleys to keep the belt from ever jumping/running off.

You try Nissan?

The thread inside the block that the male/male fitting screws into is M18 x 1.5.

Some people commonly mistake the old NC machines as newer CNC's. Then again I believe some people just play on it hoping to fool most who wouldnt know or could even tell the difference.

This may help people understand roughly how the internals work. If anyone has anything to add, feel free! Its probably far from bang on.

Lol yes.... Well if the results are going to be as promising as you've said then who cares what it sounds like! Seems like you've created another monster Noel! I love it.

Wow Noel! It does sound like a rotary! How embarassing....

Check out the latest ARP catalog under the torque setting page and see what it is for an 11mm stud. Ive always done them to 71ft/lbs with moly lube. They could have changed it... Just looked and it is 72ft/lbs now. Well there you go.

Perhaps the clearance between the collar and inner gear was too tight??? No expansion allowance maybe...

That is exactly right.

Not blowby, the amount of oil flow to the head.

Yeh you can vent your catch can breather into the exhaust via a 1 way check valve. So back fires wont pressurise your catch can and engine. The fitting needs to be welded at a angle similiar to how you would merge a wastegate outlet to your exhaust. The exhaust flow rushing past creates a vacuum and that opens the 1 way valve and draws any oil/air into your exhaust....However having alot of oil in the can will only lead to copious oil fumes. Only good if you have the oil control sorted and it alleviates the need for air filters on the can. Best setup is individual lines from cam covers to can and a crankcase vent from inlet side of sump to can and a return from can to exhaust side sump. The way the crank spins, it creates a vacuum on the exhaust side encouraging oil drain (oil return holes are on this side) and return from the head, while the inlet side is what vents the crankcase of blowby pressure. The direction of flow is the same as the crank's clockwise rotation. Similiar principle to windage. Its why crankscrapers always face the crank at a tangent to its swinging arc, from the inlet side. Or why the louvers on windage trays are bent up towards the exhaust side. Hopefully this will help. Please excuse my lame paint skills.

Yeh you only need a good crankcase breather line to your catch can and thats enough to vent the excessive pressure. With the pressure out of the sump, everything else can work as it should.

As tidy as the manifold in that picture looks. I can only imagine the flow inside would be shocking. Gases running into more gases. I wouldnt have used the tee's for the outlets. Rather 90's being merged into the back corner of the next one along. But for a simple easy to fabricate manifold that looks like the way to go! You could pump that out in one afternoon/night. So all you need is 4 x buttweld fitting tee's and two buttweld fitting 90's probs long radius, and what looks like a piece of RHS to suit the internal dimensions of the T3 flange and then maybe another 90 for external wastegate outlet if you go that route. Id imagine all the buttweld fittings would be 1 1/4". That log style manifold would be pretty damn cheap too. Maybe $100 to $130 worth of material...

Did she find the place that does it in the car? If not, why isnt the engine out and getting stripped?? Its not a lie if she doesnt know any better.