r33_racer

Easy. Disconnect that line to the intake. Run it into a breather can. Then clean out the intercooler and all pipe work that has oil in it.

Funny you should mention that, I actually tried hooking up the bleed valve to the old bypass valve and it didnt make much difference. I may try hooking it upto the bov and see what it does. I still need to shim it. It only needs just enough so it stays closed under full boost. If none of this works as well as I want, then Ill just have to hook up my old wastegate and plumb it up as I was originally advised by StockyMcstock who successfully twincharged his vl 3-4 years ago. Atleast I know his method will work. In hindsight I should have just taken his advice! I seem to naturally do things the hardway!

I changed the bypass valve to a turbosmart 38mm plumb back bov last night and cut the spring down so it works....Its alot more progressive now. The driveability has increased a shit load! But I cut the spring abit too much and its bleeding boost off up high lol. Can only achieve 1.2 bar now Hopefully some shims under the spring will help that issue. Still waiting on my cooling mist WMI kit to come from the states.

Already made. Shane made them ages ago. We are about to run off some on the mill for our own race car...

Good to hear you guys figured it all out. We never bothered looking into it after we hadnt seen anyone else with much success doing it. Plus never had any issues with the factory setup and alcon brakes. It took me quite a while to left brake and get used to the sensativity....But like anything you adapt and get a feel for it. But I can see how the setup could easily be tailored to suit.

That is possible, though some went to an aftermarket pedal box, which no doubt was different to standard (but possibly not correct, or maybe was, never got into that detail about it) and said the braking/pedal feel wasnt as good as standard. No suprises there. However, I cant see it being as good as the standard assisted setup. Seems like more a space saving/minor weight saving thing to do, rather then something that will actually kelp you go faster around the track.... But each to their own Lol though maybe qld'ers cant work it out as well as you nsw'ers.

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back. You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

Nice. Finally something else out there. Let us know how they go!

nice work. going to slam the wiring yourself hey? i cringe, it sounds painful.

We have some similiar arms on our speedcar trailer we made last year. It was used with normal leaf springs, but we changed it to airbags. So much better then solid axles!

Dude, sweet build! Love all the DIY stuff. It will be interesting to see how those suspension mods pan out when you get around to actually using that modified subframe.

You did goop up around the water and oil holes? Or perhaps used some hylomar? If you are using a MLS with the O rings, you need to use copper O rings, stainless wont work. In that setup, either the gasket or O rings need to give when crushed, stainless rings with MLS head gasket, neither will give. Also do the ends of the rings actually butt up to eachother nicely? Do you know what the protrusion height is from the deck? Ill put this up just incase.

So I fixed the two hose leaks. Got some better clamps and aligned the piping better. Also fixed the leak from the inlet manifold. The standard gasket that sits under the idle control valve wasnt sealing properly with the block off plate over it. Used some threebond instead. I thought I had put 3J on it, but turns out I just re used the factory gasket. Eitherway its not leaking anymore However I have discovered a new leak in the throttle body. Its leaking past the shaft and out around the tps drive. Hopefully I can get some sort of O ring to seal around the shaft and under the drive adaptor I made. So many leaks....Its no suprise the power was down and it wouldnt hold stable boost!

Yeh but the one I have is a 38mm ID one. So i need something similiar. Preferably one that will adapt easily to where it was mounted.

After some more research last night, I discovered that plumb back bov's apparently work pretty well as bypass valves! Will look at giving one a try to replace my current one. Hopefully it works out! Also found some info on sound deadening. Some sort of wrap that you put around the intercooler pipes and it keeps the noise in. Also found something about a Helmholtz resonator. Some air canister that links from the outlet of the supercharger and it cancels out noise by holding the air...Will have to look into that abit more if it will help!

Yeh I cant see the point in spending so much on a high end ecu when something lesser will do the job fine. This is only a weekend/fun car. Ill look at the ecu options abit later on anyway. I got enough little things to sort out at the moment. I got around to pressure testing the piping system. I think ive found out why the boost was not holding in a flat lined state. I have discovered in total 5 boost leaks lol! Two from intercooler hose joints, one just before the throttle body and the other at the first joint after the discharge port. Those two are both quite substantial, though easily fixed. There is one coming from the plenum, the block off plate I made to bolt inplace of the idle control valve, I once again used 3J aviation gasket paste there and it appears to have blown out, so I will need to threebond that shit on. The last two leaks are coming from the bypass valve. There is one small leak coming from around the throttle shaft where there is a small gap eachside of the blade right where the bearings are pressed in. You can blow through it with your own breathe, so that air is leaking and being returned back into the intake. That may be acceptable, I would have thought not but I need to find out for sure. Now the last leak is coming from the actuator housing, where the arm comes out it also leaks boost when its shut. It absolutely pisses out from around there. Im guessing the diaphram is damaged or something as im sure its not supposed to leak that much. Either I got a dodgy unit or they are meant to be like that. Pretty well all of this could have been avoided had I gone to the effort to pressure test it all like I had planned before the tuning. When tired, I just pulled the "ahh she be right mate" it cant be too bad lol. Well fark was I wrong there. So im curious to know just how better things might get with all the leaks fixed up, including the bypass valve.

Yeh I heard Paul has gone to a motec lol. Well the powerfc was in the car when I got it. So its just stayed in there since. We run a SM4 in our race car, but I just cant afford to put an autronic or motec in my road car. Link or vipec perhaps or something else around that level. I do dream about motecs though!

You running copper o rings?

Dunc does that charger turn off via a clutch pulley system of somesort?

Yeh I will definitely have to look at all those options! Cheers for the ideas. The sound deadening was something I was considering also Rolls. Around the p.side guard and probably under the bonnet. If it only reduces about 10% of the noise it would have helped a shitload! About the airbox, im not sure Id be able to fit that back in. Would probably have to fabricate one...

Didnt consider a Link. But will look into it!

Yeh I know what you mean Dunc. But the exhaust isnt too bad, though it could do with another muffler or resonator, lol perhaps a cat to atleast keep it legal to some degree. Its the supercharger noise thats the issue. The induction noise is loud, the discharge and whirring noise is way over the top. Its about ten times louder then what I was honestly expecting.

Yeh I will most likely get a Vipec. At the moment there isnt really much room to make a heat shield. When I modify the intake tract, it will give me more room between them so I can then do just that. I think number 2 primary is like 10mm away from the intake. Not very well designed unfortunately lol. Good thing is there is always round 2!

Ok so not much good! It made a best of 330ish rwhp, but its been pulled to 300rwhp until I can sort things out. Driveablity is shit house as the bypass valve is too sensitive and its too on/off when it comes onto boost. The powerfc also isnt good enough to try and help tune around this sudden change in boost, so when it does come onto boost it goes really rich really fast and it doesnt like it so it stutters, backfires pops and farts before it comes good and inorder to get it go good straight off you really just gotta jam the throttle open and then it goes like a rocket. Now the good bit is the down low to midrange is just fantastic! I found out if you accidentally stab the throttle from slow speed and it manages to get past the silly afr's and revs out cleanly it just breaks traction all over the place. Had a few hairy moments on the trip home lol. Its impressive for such low hp! The downside is the noise it makes is just stupid! Its so fricken loud. I got way more attention then Im comfortable with on the way home. So I need to try and figure out a way to reduce the noise. Farks me how though... The heat thats generated also is quite high. Compounded by the fact the extractors run right next to and over the top of the intake. So the radiating heat isnt doing it any favours. The outlet and intake pipe get so hot you cant touch them. So im going to look at some water/meth injection to feed into the intake to hopefully reduce the intake/outlet temps. So I still have alot of work to do to get it upto scratch! But im happy that it didnt blow up and nothing major went wrong!

No worries. You will love it!