r33_racer

You can reuse head gaskets no worries. Just a light coat of hylomar on each side and whack it back down, obviously after its been cleaned first. Done this trick many times with no problems.

This thread is shit hot! These bad boys are great! I love these tools, they are perfect for race car fabrication duties. Should be threaded insert gun does 4,5,6,8,10 probs similiar to Craved's one. Spotting drills for deburing drilled holes, perfert chamfer everytime and it looks like it was done on a cnc! Air rivet guns, makes light work when you got eleventy billion rivets to pop! Just noticed this is a NSW thread...Im only a QLD'er, am I allowed to contribute??

lol nice Duncan!

Cool beans! Any details on this bottom end yet?

Amazing! Shit that is good for first attempt. So after rev 2? Doors, bonnet, boot, front and rear bar, front guards and some bolt on rear quarters??????????????????

Your doing this with engine out of car right? Or you currently only have the head off in the car? Pistons and rods only go in/out from top of block. Unless thats what you meant, but had to crack open sump first to drop the caps off??

Lol the later the better for me! I may actually have my car done in time to run at this event

Its CPC, custom plenum creations i think. ISL33P is his username. He has a thread showing his work in the fabrication section. Take a look and see his stuff Its very nice.

lol yeh i wasnt sure if you were paying Noel out or about our old head. But I did lol eitherway. Unless you were joking about something else altogether. Shit Noel you really are keen for that stroker kit! The stroker kit is getting there. Brads working on it fellas

Yes sir. It is my road car. Unless your a cop, then no its not lol.

lol you mean our old one...If it still is that one. Noels car is going to be an even bigger weapon!

This should be good! I love the engineering in this project.

This new head sounds amazing!

Well the cat is the easy bit. You may have noticed a lack of one in my system

You can just save the money and use your standard pump. Its works just fine

lol that is the best way! Do you already have turbo to cat done?

Didnt you say that your doing a cat back? That almost seems like enough to do a full turbo back system. It cost me about $1100 all up for the materials to do my whole exhaust system. Thats including the mufflers, 3inch and 2.5inch pieces and the bends for the extractors. The head flange was a donation and I just reused the old hangers and flange. I was lucky to have some copper sheet that I was able to use to make new gaskets so I saved abit there also. I reckon for a whole new exhaust system if you are doing it yourself $1000 is the number. You could probably do it cheaper if you went for lesser quality mufflers. But then if you were going to do it real schmick you would use v bands everywhere which would then blow the price out abit. My initial plan was to use v bands, but it would have added another $200-300! Screw that! If I had more time I would have just machined the weld on rings and just bought the clamps from a truck parts shop. I can tell you there are so many things in these projects. Half of them you dont even think of until you come across it and when you make pretty well all of it yourself it is so damn time consuming. Everytime ive estimated when I would have something made or finished it ends up taking twice as long

Nice setups people. I am also keen to know the filter type in that picture?

I do have a pipe bender. But it can only do press bends. I just got mandrel bends and some straight. I used 2 x 45 bends in 3" and about 2 metres of straight. I also used about 1metre of 2.5" straight and 4 x 45 bends 2.5". 2 used to make the 2 into 1 merge. For a turbo system i reckon that you would need atleast 2 90's, 2-3 45's and 3m straight, thats assuming the turbo is high mount. For catback it would only be about 2-3 45's and maybe 1-1.5m straight. Depends on how many other mufflers you will have in the system. I will defs be posting some videos. Its friday wooooooooooooooooooooooooot! I wish I had a mandrel bender! But I am lucky the guys next door to us at work have one. I have them to thank for all the bends I used to make the extractors and merge collectors.

Excellent info in this thread. Thanks!

I think its quite safe to assume that it is the ring lands that are wrecked and hence the top ring isnt sealing and hes getting all that comp loss and blow by. Nothing is 100% positive until its inspected. I can agree with that bit. Soon enough im sure he will be able to inform us of what actually happened. Yeh not all of what i was saying was totally pointed towards the OP sorry. I was covering the range of other posts. Im slack when it comes to being specific to everyone/everything. I still maintain that if temps are kept in check, you dont need a super duper oil. Sure if you had crappy thermal management then yes I would be covering my ass with top notch synthetic oil. But if your doing track work often then it would be silly to not make sure your water and oil cooling systems were spec'd accordingly. Weve used a few different oils in our race car over the last 5 years including 300v and weve sent off samples of the various oils weve used and even the more common types(castrol, mobil 1) showed after several dyno sessions and race meets that the it was still in top condition. Much better then expected. My point being that most people go overboard unnecessarily quite often when it comes to oils. But each to their own

lol! ah if only. I was hoping someone may have had various oils tested and found out something others didnt know. Funny you should joke about that, as im sure I read an article somewhere about some oil that came out a couple of years ago that gave a 10hp increase from just a straight oil change...back to back dyno runs. Though it was on a bommodore. Reread what i wrote this morning. My apologies as it seems to come across a little aggressively. Blame it on being half asleep.

lol running the most expensive oil on the market isnt going to save your engine if the same thing happens to your motor that did the op. You guys waste your money on top end oils for low power street cars.... For the last three years I thrashed my road car and it only got whatever oil was lying around about once a year. When I stripped it not long ago, the bearings, crank and bores were perfect, the whole bottom end was sweet. A 250rwkw(+-50kw) engine doesnt need 300v for road duties, hell it doesnt even need it for race duties, a regular semi syn will work just fine. If i bought the 300V, which we did use in our race car many years ago, shit, I wouldnt change it for atleast a year if not more. Just change the filter once every 6 months with a small top up. Whats important is not over heating the engine and cooking the rings/blowing a headgasket and NOT cooking the oil. If temperatures are kept in check any half decent oil will last a long time. Ive always wondered how do people figure their car/engine likes a certain oil? Did they send off samples of every oil they have tried and found that X oil has lasted the longest in their motor??? or is it just their own personal preference?

Just some pictures from weekend of the finished exhaust system. I painted them all black tonight, so they look all pretty. I didnt grab any pictures. I went to tap the bungs for the egt sensors as well tonight and I broke both taps I had! The stainless bungs I machined must have been 431. I thought I grabbed some 304 . Anyway the taps didnt like it. Lol the first tap broke and it was a shitty branded item, got out the good one and then it broke. Now I gotta machine up some mild steel ones I guess and weld them on top! Fricken still waiting on bits from Summit for the fuel system too! Been weeks and weeks....probs should atleast check the order status.

So now that everyone has speculated the cause of your motors comp loss, what are your plans for this new enigne? Get to the exciting bit already....