r33_racer

So Dunc, did you see the picture of my electric hydraulic power steering pump? Yeh, I know you are jealous Cost me $350 aus delivered from the U.S. I got incredibly lucky on ebay, beginners luck you could say. Would you believe that no wreckers in this country that I could find had one. Brand new from Toyota was about $1400 from Japan. You can get brand new Mercedez Benz units for $1100 from the U.S. Once I figure the mounting and wiring of it Ill post it up in here and in the electric power steering thread. Looks like Im going to mount in the passenger side corner near the windscreen wiper motor. First hand held mock up on saturday makes it look like a promising spot.

Most people just use a 1.2mm headgasket as that is 'the norm' and there usually are no issues involved. If you are worried about valves hitting pistons then you need to dummy assemble everything and put blue tac/playdoe on the pistons where the valves sit over and torque head down on the hg your going to use and turn it over by hand and check if its hitting. Basically just keep on trimming the stuff down until you have about 2-3mm(80-120thou) clearance I think the number usually is. Something that might help you out. We once ran our 25/30 with 9.0:1 cp pistons with camshafts @ 10.2mm lift, running a 1.2mm headgasket and we had a tad over 80thou clearance, which had no problems with pistons hitting valves. On a sidenote you usually dont use the headgasket to increase your piston/valve clearance. You modify the piston if its not a predetermined setup. Which is usually just a case of throwing them in the mill and cutting valve reliefs into the tops

Could always wrap the manifold as another measure.

More like what fitting has the same size ID as the standard return lines. Atleast -10 minimum I reckon.

Yes, well ive spent enough money on it so far that its definitely not getting canned. Its happening, that is for damn sure!

zebra - I never replied, sorry. Your way probably could be done, but it sounds like alot more work to do. The snout isnt an issue as the supplier does machine them and you can get them in a variety of lengths. But making a new inlet manifold to incorporate the s/c on it to me sounds quite daunting. I like the idea of keeping my intercooler and if need be I can still add the WMI ontop of it all. I took some quick pics this morning of the stuff ive gotten so far. It aint much. I did however leave the filter unit and accusump at home. Forgot to bring it with me, but everyone knows what they look like. That is the first attempt at my bracket which will mount off the block/head as the power steering pump did. I used 1/4" plate and just cut it out by hand and overlayed the p/s pump bracket ontop of it for the hole centres. I then had to machine up the bushes(stainless 304, have lots of it at work) for the back of it to space it out enough so it would give some clearance off the block/head/timing backplate. Top bush was machined @ 35mm long, bottom two @ 20mm with 10.5mm holes in all of them. I then bolted them to the plate and just tacked them on, but found the plate bent ever so slightly just from the short tacks. That will cause a silly pain when I then build off it to attach the plates which will hold the s/c. So ive since drawn up the bracket in CAD and will be getting it lasercut out of 8 or 10mm so I have a super strong base to build on. In heindseight I should have just clamped the plate down instead of being lazy, though I honestly didnt expect it to bend. Good thing you never end up using the first mock up anyway. Ive drawn the front and back mounting plates in CAD as well. So hopefully they will all get cut at the sametime and then I will be putting the whole mounting bracket together within the next week or so. Ive been slack with the updates, though not much has happened yet, mainly cause over the last few weeks brisbane has seen abit of rain on and off and my car is being worked on outside still Hopefully it will pick up from here on out.

Yeh Duncan, im not exactly sure what the power is going to be like down low or even up high. Im not expecting big numbers. But im expecting a good amount of get up and go straight off the bat as opposed to how it used to be with the GT30r. If it works out right, I should see about 20+psi at 2000rpm or thereabouts. Hopefully a nice fat torque curve too. Wont really know for sure until its all done though. Justin, yeh im keeping the vct. It is still a standard rb25, std head, cams and everything else. Just the forged pistons, acl bearings and mls headgasket thats already in it. Ive had parts rolling it from the states over the last couple of weeks. And in what free time I have ive been stripping away stuff off the engine that needs to go. Power Steering is definitely gone. Already removed and I have acquired a MR2 spyder 2003 model electric hydraulic power steering pump. It looks to be in good cond. It was my first purchase off Ebay! I have got an aftermarket oval throttlebody, accusump, new inline canton filter setup which ill be using/fitting at the sametime. Throttlebody is huge in comparison, but needs to be since it will be infront of the supercharger. I was hoping to keep the airconditioning, but after some more measuring this arvo im thinking its also a gonna. No drama I guess. All for the sake of fun. I will get some pics of the parts sometime soon.

Stop saving the world simon and get back into the cars!

Dave, if thats aimed at me. yes pulls about 8in/hg

Yeh we run an inline filter also. A peterson fuel filter.

Abit more looking around this morning I found this unit http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bi...&key=22-491 Looks to do the exact job required. Would be easy to plumb inline with some smaller fittings to suit the turbo oil supply. It looks alot neater, smaller and better suited for the job as it is designed to regulate engine oil pressure. That may help someone

After dyno run and finally a half day of practice out at lakeside on the weekend netted no turbo oil issues. Still holds the 50 psi max. As stated in my first post, South Cott is the hydraulic mob i got the regulator and fittings from. Adriano, I was considering the same thing but was unsure if it would work successfully. I guess it is worth a shot if someone else is annoyed enough to bother with the idea. Suprising how much you can put up with before you actually do something about a problem.

Well i finally won one today from ebay of all places. A bloke in the USA had one off a 2002 Spyder. Apparently alot better then the older units as it has the electrics built into it. One unit, pump, tank and controller. Hopefully should have it within the week. I will keep this bit updated with how it turns out. If not it will be in my supercharger thread as I get it done and documented.

Your idea makes good sense, though id imagine it would be stressing things a tad....however the lack of reply could be because you are close or right on the money

Lol actually those last few pages, no i didnt read them properly. Just a quick browse over then it was a while after that i posted that. My bad, I now notice that what i suggested had been covered and rejected. But its been done before, spacing subframes down. Im sure i did that fricken 7 years ago when i put a rb20det in my sil80.

8.5mm drill bit and m10 x 1.5 tap

I dont think they make them specifically for rb25's. But we use the 26 one on our 30. People also use them on their 25's. Works fine, though you may need to space your power steering pump forward abit to line the belt up properly.

Ive been trying to source an MR2 one from wreckers today. I rang a few but no one has any. Dont suppose you have one Trent? A new one from Toyota is $1400.

Yeh what dave said. Im curious as I may need to source one to aid in my supercharge project. The one ive sourced before is on back order from that company and its pretty exxy. It would be nice to have a couple of options.

Duncan did you end up sourcing one and fitting it?

pretty sure i blew first!

Yeh i figured its worth a try. Im not sure exactly what the drain is...but im going to assume about 100hp which is probably a good overkill. I think the Kenne Bell website states lower numbers. But its been a while since i looked. I should ask the people at Sprintex. My plan is to mount it vertically on the passenger side above the power steering pump and off towards the wheel arch abit so it can plumb straight back into my original intercooler setup. If I cant make it fit there I will be removing the power steering and using its spot to mount it. I have sourced a plan B option of an aftermarket electric power steering pump/tank setup to replace the mechanical pump. Im hoping it doesnt come to that, but if so then atleast ive got that problem covered. Ive looked at the rotrex units. I didnt like that you need their special cooler and oil for it because it spins at super high speeds. I have also heard from a bloke whose used a couple of them that when they overheat there is some problem with a part in the gearing that expands too much and they can cease up and you throw/chew belts. But the main thing about centrifugal superchargers is that you still have to wait for fullboost as you only get it at redline. Its good in the sense that its progressive, more accurately then a normal turbo setup but you still have lag. The common understanding of superchargers is that there is no lag. Ive found that only to be true with the twin screw style superchargers. Hence why ive gone for this style. At the end of it all the only lag I 'should' experience is the time it takes for the air to travel from the discharge port of the charger to and through the intercooler and then into the greddy plenum and fill the cylinders. Which is the same in any typical turbo setup except I get full boost instantly not at peak rpm/redline. Closest update at the moment is im trailering the car to my old mans garage tomorrow morning and will start pulling everything off and start looking at it all in finer detail

Good to hear man. It just looks like is going to break not too long after you start any racing. But no doubt he will be able to slam it all and make it bullet proof. Id love to see this thing one day. Its going to be fricken awesome!!

Since half way through last year ive been inspired to supercharge my road skyline(White 96 R33 S2) after discovering the thread on the GTR UK forums. Basically in a nutshell this project is going to involve me pulling all the turbo/exhaust/manifold setup off and replacing it with my newly aquired 2.1L twin screw blower. Its going to be quite involved as I will need to fabricate a mounting bracket with belt tensioner setup, a new intake with custom throttle body setup, new intercooler piping from outlet to existing piping, fit the bypass valve and probably a boost controller bleed valve(otherwise known as an overboost valve), machine a drive pulley to adapt to the standard damper or an aftermarket one if its not achievable, fabricate a custom set of headers and basically a full new exhaust system. At the same time im planning on upgrading injectors and the rest of my fuel system setup to allow for the running of E85 when Brisbane finally catches up with the rest of the world. I havent actually started anything yet as im waiting on space to free up at my old mans place. But its been started in my head and ive been thinking about it nonstop as I try to figure it all out and allow for possibilities that may arise which could force an early bail. But I have every intention of finishing it and it looks promising as to the results this setup can provide. I want to document everything I do on this so if others wish to follow in my stead they may use this and myself as a guide to venture to the dark dark side of forced induction tuning. Previous history of my car is decent already. I fried the standard pistons some time ago when i had a turbo setup that wasnt very good and resulted in some lean conditions arising. So I rebuilt the motor, with some acl (ross) forged pistons, reused standard rods, crank was fine, everything else except the bore which had to be machined for the new oversize slugs was fine. The head was cleaned up with new valve stem seals and a slight deck. New acl bearings for the bottom end and cometic headgasket was used and ended up with a 8.0:1 CR as I wasnt aware that the acl pistons dropped the CR by .5 already so the head gasket was bought slightly thicker to drop it another 0.5. Car sports a PWR gtr intercooler, greddy inlet manifold, sard 550cc injectors, powerfc, hks bov which is going(thank f*ck.) To the good stuff. This is the supercharger in question which I acquired from a company in Perth called Sprintex. They make these superchargers which are based off the autorotor design, also the same as the Kenne Bell twin screws. Actually they are identical. Autorotor being the original manufacturer of these superchargers. Based off my research into superchargers these bad boys are the most efficient internal compression superchargers around. The 2.1L unit I have is rated at about 650hp. So the equivalent of a GT35R. Im going to be spinning it at 2 times engine speed (rev limit of 7,000rpm) with the superchargers maximum continuous rpm being 14,000. But they tell me they can happily go upto 18,000rpm for short periods of time in racing conditions if needed. But I dont want to push it all and will have no need to do so because of this reason... Here is the best bit about this unit. By all accounts I will have full boost, which will be whatever it is by 2,000 engine rpm (4,000 supercharger rpm). That my friends is all I needed to know about this setup that sold me! So much to the point that I dont care about anything else regarding it all. When its all done I will know for sure just how it all pans out power and response wise! Im hoping for awesome things. Ive gotten many bonars over this project just being in my head for so long. Im sure that I will no doubt cream my pants when its all done! Stay tuned... Sorry for the long arse post!

I farken hate you mate! Ive dreamt of doing that exact same project for so long. Ive always been torn because i love skylines as well. Good luck with it though. Its looking awesome and im insanely jealous! Question though? Have you beefed up those engine mounts anymore since the first pic of them. Where the two halfs join at the bend. It doesnt look to be very reinforced (gusseted) for the sort of weight that will be hanging off them. I know those drift cars can bounce around a fair bit on tracks and also when they run off the track and the hard suspension wont help it much either (though i am assuming you will be running hard springs as thats what most do when running *JAP* spec drifting coilovers.