r33_racer

0.25mm is 10 thou. Most shops work in imperial, so they refer to things in thou. They should be checking the block for tunnel straightness, the big ends of the rods and small ends for that matter. Should get them to check everything regardless of what they said, or goto a different workshop. Were the big end bearings polished, or mains?

Dont most pumps spin around that....50-57% of engine speed I believe is the number.

Perhaps its just your temp thermocouple, which i think is in the outlet of your manifold that goes to the top of the radiator...it might be stuffed. Try replacing that.

Yeh, still over by 5psi...but its the smallest unit we could find unfortunately. MTQ suggested and I believe CGC said the same, was either putting another restrictor in at the block, or putting a 0.8mm one at the turbo. Now thats getting pretty damn small. Ideally, someone just needs to make one specifically for turbos and have a range from say 30-100psi so it can be used with BB cores and Bush cores like some of the bigger turbos which i think require more pressure.

My thoughts exactly Duncan! Those nitto oil pumps generate high oil pressure. Good for engine, but not always the turbo. Garrett state on their website, for ball bearing cores, max 40-45psi at full noise.

You are talking about the mechanical fan that drives off the waterpump right? Not the aircon thermo right out the front i think it is...

I found a point where i thought the gas would flow nicely into the outlet and then used a holesaw to cut the hole where i wanted it, did some cleaning up and radiusing with the die grinder and then cut my 90 bend and shaped it to sit over it how i wanted then tig'd it on. I imagine you should preheat the housing around the area where you weld it...I just let it the heat build up with the tig before actually welding it on....not the best way but its worked without any problems...did this fix on both the road car and race car. I did it all at work with a dummy head and rocker cover and fitted it all up so it would all clear and whatnot...unless youve done it before, i dont know how well you will do it by having a guess at it. Hole size was more like 30mm from memory as you cant take a 45mm chunk out as the section of housing is only about that wide overall....once you have a closer look at the actual inside area of where you want to put the outlet on it you will see just how big a hole you can cut. I imagine if you had the skills and tools you could easily do it at home.

I found a possible solution for a way of managing excessive oil pressure in the turbo. We just started having some issues with oil bypassing the seals on our old turbo and a brand new core from garrett. Turbo is a gt35r. We put new motor together and put old turbo back on...first thing it did was start blowing burnt oil out the exhaust and oil out from the intake....Rang MTQ they suggested to get it rebuilt.....So thats off getting fixed, so we got a new core so we can get things underway. Fitted the new turbo, same shit, oil pissing out front intake though not as bas as old core, and smoke still billowing out exhaust. Mind you we have always run the 1.0mm restrictor in the feed ontop of the turbo. Not at the block as some have suggested. The answer (or one of) I believe is this adjustable oil pressure reg, I believe the proper term is a pressure reducer. Used in hydraulic applications, its the smallest unit they had and goes from 50-1000psi. As expected we had to run it at lowest, 50psi. So that in combination with the 1.0mm restrictor solved the smoke and oil blowing out the intake. We tried without restricter at first, but there was still a little smoke out back, nothing out front. At the moment with this gadget inline before the oil filter to turbo it holds 50psi when engine sees peak oil pressure. So far after a quick investigation it seems to be working as hoped for. I guess the dyno run and track time will tell if its anygood overall. Some pics of the setup. Pretty much goes oil in, out and the bleed off line which we sent to the factory rb25 front head drain port. Obviously when its all set and correct, it will be mounted properly and the gauge attachment removed so its not so huge and space consuming. Hopefully this may give some ideas for others who want to try something different to just putting the usual restrictors inline...Maybe if someone found a unit that does a lower oil pressure they could post it up here. The unit we got was from South Cott....the whole unit with fittings and adaptors and gauge was about 350bux....so not cheap by any means...but the block and valve to adjust pressure was only about 150ish...the gauge plus fittings and whatnot added up the extra...so if you got the basics and sourced a cheaper gauge and fittings you could save yourself abit. We did also look at straight pressure reducing valves...with no bleed off...but we were not sure if it would work correctly with flow and whatnot. If anyone else has toyed with this idea and come up with something simliar or better possibly cheaper feel free to add. I know some people experience this problem with oil bypassing seals and some dont...some use restrcitors and have no further issues, some dont use them and have no issues. Or like us, some never had the problem, then magically it started, and restrictors dont help and want to fix it properly this maybe some kind of answer.

Go for a larger radiator with heat exchanger built into the side tank. Atleast twin pass. Make sure you have a good catch can and engine breathing setup as you will no doubt be redecorating your engine bay with brown

You mean the pump bracket & pump forward? I looked at doing that last time, but it doesnt look like there is much left to do that....if you recall how much did you slot it by?

yep...thats what i would do...redrill & tap...a little bit of time saves wasting the belt and more money/time for another.

fair enough mate.

600hp tial housing? as in one of the new s/s casted v band rear housing? if so.....*drooooool* Would be interesting to see how they work..unless your talking about a gate, not exhaust housing. People can get to 400rwkws. Easily without many mods 320-350rwkw. As usual depends on head work, cams and the rest. atm, we have a gt35r with a 1.06 rear making 390rwkws on 20psi.

or simply let it overboost and just use one of those Greddy adjustable relief valves....Trent should know about them, are you a Greddy agent/dealer? Im trying to track one down....

brad at spool has them...pretty sure he sells quite alot of em. He could help you out with either pistons or part numbers im sure.

pretty good for a paint drawing trent...it explains what you mean well enough. My idea was similiar to yours except to protrude the top section of the pipe into the collector 5-10mm to actually disrupt the exhaust flow and force it into the outlet. Even with that i dont think you would notice any difference in lag/spool from the upset flow.

I havent needed to go to a 60mm wg, since my 48mm progate has worked fine how it is now. We had boost control issues whilst on the manifold, even with an increase in wastegate pipe size which kyle did to help fix this issue, but it didnt work, but that was a couple of years ago now. Since then I put the wastegate on the housing as pictured and we now have perfect boost control. Everyone seems to think it might affect flow....it very well may, but in terms of power and response, it made absolutely no difference to power, response on the dyno or at the track. There appears to be absolutely no downside to this mod atleast from what ive noticed over the last couple of years of running it. But if your larger outlet idea works well for you then thats great...saves modifying the housing. However if everyone who runs a merge collector manifold and has to run atleast a 60mm wg just to get proper boost control...that could be quite costly. Especially since you dont really need such a large wastegate to control boost(in terms of gas flow).

Nobody knows or wants to share? I have a feeling this can be quite critical on inline 6 motors, as the crank flexs, with too little side clearance, it can grab or nick bearings on the outer edges. The last motor we put together, we had 10 thou side clearance.

Eitherway, there doesnt seem to be any manifolds with a merge collector design that have wastegate placement spot on and work perfectly in aus at a reasonable price. If there was one, im sure they would be making an absolute killing over the other couple of manifold makers who have been making them from the get go. Anyway, abit slow, but this is what I did on our race car setup. So Jap_Muscle....whats the answer to the problem?

Wasnt there a thread about this somewhere....all merge collector manifolds with gt35r turbos and up seem to have this issue...the manifolds flow so well that it bypasses the pickup for the gate, smaller turbos on those manifolds seem to have enough back pressure in there to force gas out the wastegate. To fix it, the wastegate pipe needs to protrude further into the gas flow inside the collector to catch more gas and direct it out...otherwise block it off and put the wastegate off the exhaust housing. Weve done that fix several times now and it works great. The manifold builders know of the issue, but i dont think they like the idea of disrupting the excellent flow they have through there. But i think perfect boost control is quite important. Probably abit more so then having perfect exhaust flow/spool.

Aftermarket blocks would be awesome! But as shane said, Billet...super exxy! A chinese casted iron block would be great...so long as its decent quality...no doubt would come out cheaper then something from here. I guess ideally, a casted block in china then final machining here in Oz.

Motul? But its french right?

Drop to $2750.00

Water should be good but power steering normally needs to come forward. try and move the pump within the factory bracket as far forward as possible and check alignment with a straight edge. You really should be using the ati balancer to check it all on incase there is some difference again. Try a different water pump. Maybe a new one from nissan.