r33_racer

I have a spare billet main cap/girdle plate setup to suit either rb25/rb30 engine blocks in rear wheel drive configuration. 1 x CNC machined girdle plate. 7 x CNC machined 4140 Main caps(1-7) ARP stud kit to suit. All fasteners included. Suited for high horsepower applications. Engine block will need machining for correct fitment. $2850.00 + Freight if required. Brisbane. PM or Mobile: 0422 292 817 Michael.

Not entirely ontopic.... Does anyone know what conrod side clearance they run? I think factory spec is 8 - 12 thou with limit at 16 thou.

I wouldnt call it oil....more like solidified chunks of crap! Thinners and rifle barrel brushes and clean all the holes out. Tap, and bam! Grub screwed, so next time you clean your crank out, you just remove the grab screws and then clean, then reloctite them back in!

battery has prob gone dead from sitting around through winter... but yes clockwise..

Need to drive it hard and put it under plenty of load straight away. Easy driving wont help bed the rings in.

what sort of crush? you could spin if there is insufficient crush? lol i guess the same goes for too much as well. was it a main or big end that spun? If you dont mind me asking....can pm.

likewise! See you there...D day for both of us!

ahh im totally gonna get to you with my awesome top gunnesssssssssss.

last TA, 57.8x or something i think...have to check the website...but PB is 56.3. If I dont crack that PB at next TA on tuesday im gonna be well and a truly annoyed. What times were you doing in the evo?

lol he does have a fair point about google and 21st century bit!

ohh sorry your running a to4z too...i missed that bit.. Shit like gervase was saying...the dipper, our gt35r is abit dull....id imagine it would be a fair whack worse with a to4z. Well maybe the extra horsepower will help you down the straights...

Third gear should be fine for turn 6....if its not then you aint going fast enough into it GT35 is ideal as R31Nismoid suggested.

very nice...its looking good maverick! Clearly you have the need for speed

great news there. what exactly was causing the restriction?

2.5/2.5 thou But we run a thicker oil also, a 20-50 non detergent.

Ive seen plenty of builds with m12 studs, arp and other used in rb30's with no dramas....i think the difference is probabaly negligible in real world terms. Ive never heard of any problems with head stud holes cracking out or areas around them cracking due to the extra 1mm increase in diameter or extra clamping force. I think you will find most of the time if people are using only m11 studs or bolts its simply because their horsepower goals dont require the upgrade. And going by what some people have achieved, it seems unless your really going for major power, like 1500+ you can prob stick to 11mm studs.

glass, wet n dry and figure 8's. 5 thou is about right.

+3 AFM/s I Had the exact same issue in my road car, changed it for a new one and its perfect!

Excellent thread this one! Gotta be one of the best ones in a long time, a problem came up and with the bouncing around of ideas, a possible but more then likely probable solution has been achieved and not only that, its actually going ahead rather then just talk. Kudos to Greg, Shane and everyone else who chipped in. Need more informative and potential RB development threads like this rather then same old same old.

lol we use the same mics at work! Not wrong about the exxy bit either! Though they are good!

Ofcourse every oil pump is a risk. But we dont log on here to see every couple of months a comment about how my std oil pump just killed my motor, or my (insert brand name here) pump just shat itself...its always the N1 pumps that come up either on here, or in conversation/passing comment or someone at the track blows one up. Its obvious the risk is higher using one, its virtually the point of this thread. Hearing one bad story should be enough. It was for me, except ive been exposed to multiple, whether on here or at the track. Im sure alot of people who have seen this thread will agree with myself and the others who share the same opinion about N1 pumps. Its simple. You get whatever puts your mind at ease and fits in with your budget. Dry sumps all round for everybody.....hooray

I tried posting this this morning...but it wouldnt work. Ash, you might look at the stats on it all and see that technically it might not be true or accurate based on the accumlated info that rezlo has gotten in comparison to the rest of the stats out there which nobody knows other then nissan and how many N1s have been manufactured and sold....but anyone with an ounce of intelligence isnt going to take a chance when building a new motor, especially if its a big dollar build. And most who wouldnt know, would buy an N1 pump as its supposed to be an upgrade from std for a decent price too. But people do have problems with them, especially when they are leaned on in high reving, decent horsepower motors, but as you have pointed out many times other dont.....But even if the percentage overall was only 1% of reported cases, that would be enough for a clever enough man to weigh up whether he wants to risk it or not. Id hope he wouldnt, because who wants to take a chance when outlaying money? If an N1 pump cant handle abuse on a performance motor in a sports car, whats the point in using it, really? If you cant limit bash if you go drifting (or burn out comps), or sustain high rpm for extended sessions in circuit racing, or place it under extreme loads at the drags with high rpm dumps/antilag/launch control, why risk using it? These seem to be the things which people often ask when finding out about an N1 failure, probably because anyone who has a skyline frequently does these things. If in more then a couple of reported cases an N1 pump cant live in these conditions then its a piece of CRAP imo and should be only used in std road cars as a replacement for worn out std oil pumps and nothing more. You say its only a number/s, I say its a good enough collection of numbers saying dont risk it. Kudos to rezlo for trolling forums to collect it all too! On another note, I dont know how I posted in the future....but i like it!

Greg and Michael are on the money...4140 would be ideal. Beautiful thing is its readily available and not that expensive, especially in round bar. Lol, about carbide, it is uber hard and doesnt like flex or impact. I broke a $200 solid carbide drill not too long ago, whilst drilling ally of all things! I now know not to peck, and to let it dwell first before actually cutting.

Yeh, you can break any oil pump. But in reported cases the frequency of N1 pumps breaking seems to be far higher then most other oil pumps... At this point, reported cases are really the only thing we can go by when evaluating just how good or bad certain oil pumps are.

I dont get how the pump will over work?