r33_racer

why not email them and ask for pictures of unpolished ones? Surely they would have something to show.

The bearing is stuffed and will need replacing at somestage. That growling wont go away. Leave it lower, especially if the fuel is not that great.

oh shit yeh...this thread is f'ing awesome.... one day i shall build a space frame 33 to join the stable! Excellent work mate, this project is pure porn!

60 thou oversize....that is alot. maybe if it were a rd28. I havent seen anyone do that yet, on here anyway. Nor know of anyone whose gone that far over. No doubt it would be custom pistons. I dont think many places would stock pistons that big....shit, sometimes we have trouble finding 40 thou oversize. If your not intending on big power, perhaps you can do it, and let everyone know how it goes?

It should work fine, but isnt ideal engineering practice. The bolts/studs shouldnt be aligning the head at all. All holes have some clearance, which means movement...even if tiny. The dowels will align it all fine, then you are only relying on the bolts/studs tensile strength to hold it all down. By all rights, you would have more clamping force and strength, by opting for the 12mm bolts/studs which is always cool....unless your budget doesnt allow for it.

Hey! I used to play tennis! Good game.....lol but racing cars is more fun IMO :( Not that it has anything to do with this thread...but what the hell... ok so that was my attempt of slightly clearing the atmosphere oh no dig there either mate...just liked that line!

isnt the second line zero? first line -5 deg? Even so, just pull number one spark plug out and use a dial indicator to set no.1 to TDC and if your timing marks for the cams line up it should be good. Just make sure you follow that dotted tooth back along the gear and line it up from the rear of the gear rather then eyeing it off from the front.

appreciate the response mate. did you manage to get those pics of the rd28? or too busy? no issue if not. Have you ever checked bore with and without torque plate to see what variation there is?

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I have a question.... Since most blocks when bored/honed are done with a torque plate(well if done properly)...if you were being precise with your ring gaps, then it would make sense to check and set ring gaps whilst a torque plate is bolted to the block right? Does anyone do that? or only pedantic builders goto that length? I understand the bore distortion might only be .0005 or thereabouts going from torqued to untorqued.....but still...might only be half a thou, to some thats not much, to others thats alot. Been thinking about it, and was curious if anyone bothers?

yeh im with Tent...the sump looks average....that steering rack setup...very nice! Gives me an idea on what to do with ours in the race car! haha

Wouldnt you want a steel gas nitrided top ring rather then a chome/moly coated ductile iron top ring? Or do CP offer a proper top ring now? like acl and mahle use. Out of curiosity, last time we used several sets of CP's they didnt offer a good top ring. I would do what shane said and get a set of acl rings that have the same thickness about 1.5mm, 1.5mm and 2.7mm from memory???...but I would measure the thickness of your rings now with verniers to see.

I see...well i guess so long as it works, thats all that counts! I checked both the old NPC twin plate and new light weight twin plate and they are all unsprung as suspected. Running in done by now or what?

stronger yes...but as expected abit harsher on engagement...which might not actually be that bad if yours is a full face organic type? or is button but with just uber amounts of clamping force? Excuse my ignorance, im not too au fait with Jim Berry clutches.

Im not sure, I would have to check it out. I think from memory its all solid. But we have a new NPC twin plate, light weight version going on this new motor. I believe its solid also. I believe my road clutch is sprung.

sorry i should have been more clear, spray towards the centre of shaft/wheel, not onto the blades for the reasons that rb2530 said. Obviously its not right infront of the wheel, some distance would help the meth/water evaporate(atleast partially) before hitting the compressor. But i do believe he used a water/meth mix in his setup. I would only try it if i had a billet compressor wheel, like some of the turbos coming out of the states have....it would stand a far better chance, especially if not setup correctly.

There was a bloke on calais turbo forums who ran it pre turbo, and after a couple of years he was saying there was no noticeable wear on the blades....perhaps a billet compressor wheel could fix that over the standard type, if it were a problem. I believe he has a high pressure pump, along with a y piece valve that took boost pressure from the manifold and with the water pressure plus boost pressure it atomised the air even better then just straight water pressure....I believe this valve is easily bought, where from i dont know. I never looked into it much more. But with it pre turbo, i believe he was able to squeese an extra 70-80hp out of it as it was flowing enough air as if it were a 800hp turbo, rather then the 700hp it actually was.

Try increasing the jet size. Also should add 1% oil into the mix for lube

how light could it be? The NPC Twin plate we have in the race car is lighter then the single plate in my road car....it shits me, because it shouldnt be like that!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm dont be a girl

I pinched this from a dry sump pump company's website. FACTS ABOUT CRANKCASE VACUUM The Cheapest Power You Can Buy What is the advantage to using a large amount of crankcase vacuum in a race engine? HORSEPOWER; WHAT ELSE? And it is the cheapest HP you can buy. If you can achieve a crankcase vacuum level of at least 8 inches HG, you will very likely realize an immediate power gain of at least 15 HP. If you run a dry sump system with a three stage pump (one pressure stage, two scavenge stages), in most cases you cannot achieve a sufficient level (8 "HG) of crankcase vacuum to achieve that power gain. The extra cost of a four stage pump will net you around 15 HP in most cases. At NRC, it costs less than $100 for that extra stage. How can you beat that price for an extra 15 HP? HOW IT WORKS The reduced pressure ("vacuum") in the crankcase is generated by having a substantial excess of scavenging capacity with respect to the engine's oil flow rate. The "vacuum" increases the pressure differential across the ring package, producing an improved ring seal. The improved ring seal allows the use of a low-tension (reduced friction) ring package, yielding a power increase as well. Further, the reduced crankcase pressure dramatically reduces windage losses at high RPM. Here are a few observations we have made over the years of developing winning race engines. First of all, in most engines, the expected power gains will occur with 8 to 10 inches HG crankcase vacuum. Beyond that point, more vacuum does not generally produce any measurable power gain until (a) you get more than 20 inches HG of vacuum AND (b) you are operating in excess of approximately 8300 RPM. However, we generally size the systems on our engines to produce around 14 "HG when the engine is fresh. That provides sufficient capacity so that as the engine wears and blowby increases, there will still be sufficient scavenging capacity to achieve the 8"HG minimum, and power does not drop off noticeably. If you want to run a high level of crankcase vacuum (18 inches HG or more), there must be provisions in the engine to supplement the lubrication that used to occur when oil was being thrashed about by the moving parts ("windage"). There will likely be problems with at least wristpin and cam follower lubrication. The best solution will be the addition of piston oilers and, if your engine has a flat tappet cam, provisions for extra lubrication of the cam lobe-to-lifter interface will certainly be required. If you are trying to achieve over 18 "HG, you will need to install special crankshaft seals (front and rear) which have the sealing lips reversed to hold that higher level. In order to achieve 8 "HG or more, the engine must be well sealed. In order to check for leaks, you should pressurize the assembled engine. You will need an adjustable pressure regulator with a low range (like 0 - 10 psi) air pressure gauge. With the engine completely assembled, cap off the fitting that feeds the oil into the main oil gallery, and cap off the scavenge exit fittings from the pan. Install a pressurizing fitting into one of those caps. We use 6 to 8 PSI (which is equal to 12 - 16 inches HG) of air pressure to test our 8 - 14" engines. Start with the regulator set to ZERO and slowly add pressure, up to the max test pressure you decide to use, and listen for air leaks. If you hear any and can't pinpoint the source, spray some windshield foamy cleaner in the area with a hand spray-bottle. NOTE: You will get better sealing with the cork rocker cover gasket than with the rubber steel lined rocker gaskets. You should be aware of a few potential glitches. Some silicone sealers cure differently than others, and most take weeks to cure if it is 1/8” or thicker. An uncured bead of silicone sealant will tend to be pushed out when pressure is applied or sucked in if not cured long enough. At NRC we think the best silicone sealer is the OEM stuff, and the Permatex Ultra-Gray is also a good product. The OEM and Permatex Ultra-Gray tend to cure harder on the exposed areas which makes it a little harder to be pushed out or sucked in. However, both these products take a considerable amount of time to fully cure when the bead is thick. We have found that the softer curing stuff tends to develop leaks after the engine has been placed in service, because it moves around during the race. Recently, we have been experimenting with a two-part silicone, which is similar to two-part epoxy, but looks and feels like silicone and cures for limited use in about 30 minutes, and completely cures in 24 hours. So far, the results are encouraging. DRY SUMP OIL PANS The pickups in most of the aftermarket pans are horrible. The pickup fittings which are usually found are rectangular boxes with sharp, square corners. Those square corners play havoc with the orderly pickup of scavenge oil and add to the turbulence and aeration which occurs at that end of the system. A good hint about how the pickups should be formed can be seen by examining the interior shape of the pickup attachments on your wife's vacuum cleaner. Next, almost all the aftermarket pans use dash-12 scavenge fittings. Common sense says there is more volume inside a given length of a dash-12 hose than in the same length of a dash-10 hose. Using the smaller dash-10 hose causes no meaningful increase in flow losses, but it causes a larger percentage of the hose volume to be filled with oil instead of air. Reducing down to dash-10 scavenge lines will help achieve a higher level of vacuum. You can buy the reducers from the common suppliers such as Moroso. As far as pan design is concerned, the wider and deeper the pan is, the easier it is to control the thrashing of oil, and the easier it is to scavenge the pan well. We also found that the better the pan design (wider, deeper, with scrapers, louvers, one-way-mesh, etc) the expected gains from a high vacuum will be less. The high-vacuum system will produce the best power increases on engines with shallow pans, which are often required as a result of engine placement restrictions or from chassis construction. Hopefully this will help clear up some stuff with the whole debate Might educate some people on dry sump systems too!

what is the width of a lobe? around 20mm....if i were take a quick stab. I wouldnt think it would be much bigger then that????

Cheers! Finally someone is doing it! Billet would be very nice, though no doubt this cast one will be machine finished in a CNC after and will look almost as good! Whether its as strong or not is another thing. would you think something like 5-8k for it would be a reasonable price? Or is the thinking alot more? say 10K+? Whats your definition of not cheap?

I would love to make one just for the sake of making it, obviously money would be a big hold up, that 90million would have helped alot haha....the whole 'cool' factor is overwhelming in itself, plus having the added benefit of making the engine so much stronger and efficient in many ways is just awesome....you could incorporate as many changes as you want.... The engineering work in it is amazing, painfull at the start of the project no doubt, but just amazing! Look at some you tube videos of 5 axis cnc's making billet alloy engine blocks...there are some very trick ones on there, v8 and w 16s

For anyone not sure, you could just do both tricks! Run the back of head to sump/block(exhaust side) and then run from sump/block inlet side to catch can as Paul has suggested. Cover both bases, helping the engine breathe better, and also having that extra drain. Its not really hard to do both, especially if engine is out of car! Even easier if you are doing it on an rb26 with a single turbz setup.

billet block with water jackets, properly designed, based off rb30 would be lighter then the cast iron block weight counts for everything!