r33_racer

well clearly....we all know the answer is dry sump close thread

can i have the motor out of your patrol noel?.....pretty please

yeh...billet alloy block would be fricken cool....lol billet titanium block would be even cooler I get a hard on thinking about this stuff

he means inlet side...i believe when someone refers to the side of an engine, they mean as if seated in the car....its much easier when people just say Inlet or Exhaust side, its more definitive. Nice setup too, very very tidy...and your venting system idea is tops

Interesting stuff! Good work for actually proving your point. So on a slightly different note, would running say total seal rings, help reduce the extra blow-by that pressurises the crankcase? If anyone has run engines with and without?

did it pump pressurised oil/crankcase gases out of it?

Actually proengines, the whole block if you dont mind....im interested in what they look like in comparison. Having never seen one before. A picture of every face if thats not asking too much mate? Im sure alot of others would be curious to see what they look like too for comparative sake. I believe the bores are considerably thicker in these motors as others have already mentioned.

My understanding was to plumb the external return from the back of the head to the exhaust side on your block/sump entry point....for the reasons i was saying. Whilst running a wetsump system in our circuit car, we had this oil issue bigtime, catch cans were overflowing, and that was with the 1.5mm restrictor in the head. After that, we ran a even smaller restrictor, and the rear return to the exhaust side of the block/sump. We stopped overfilling catch cans, thank god. But when pulling the motor out on many occasions, everytime the rear return has been holding oil and had leaked out on me when removing that line from under the car. If it were just a vent, then it shouldnt have been able to fill with oil right? Unless in a circuit situation only, it can from holding high revs constantly for 15-20mins straight? However, i can see the point of venting pressure by running it on the inlet side of the motor instead. If I were still running a wetsump system i would try that out and see how well it works, I can see the theory behind the idea. Especially since the motor is out, it wouldnt be an issue to add a -12 fitting to the sump to plumb it to the inlet side. hahaha...ok i just read what the jap guy was saying on the other page and see what he said is exactly what i proposed....Only difference is i never considered it being a pressure vent....ahh i should have gone through the previous page...lol

I was under the impression the oil/vent return from the back of the head to the sump pan, or block should be on the exhaust side so it gets pulled in to the sump/engine by the crank vaccum. Same reason why the oil returns from the head through the block are on that side....thats my reasoning behind it

how does the main cap/girdle setup look in them in comparison to the rb30? Pretty well the same? Oil pick up position?

lol you wont be mig'n that too well in any hurry....you want a tig for that stuff mate!

offset grind 30 thou/microns?

Mexicans dont have problems because they are good at hiding them!

by not fitting any japstuff are you referring to the issue of antiroll bar clearance at the front?

yeh...best way to control boost...straight off the exhaust housing like 2rismos pic displays...i did the same mod to my road car with the standard cast manifold and again on our race car with kyles manifold. Fixes boost creep everytime! Some people question if it has an impact on response because your disrupting the flow in the housing, but having had both setups (off manifold collector and exhaust housing) several times, there is no noticeable difference on track.

looks like the one we use. Maybe i got confused with the fuel filter and the spraybar one.....my bad.

+1 740's

yeh we have 264 and 272 also...Works well. Congratulations mate...I bet you feel awesome! Nothing quite like winning shit...especially car stuff and ontop of that real performance car stuff!!! Fark im jealous now!

Sorry to hear about that mate. Nothing worse then dumping a whole lot of money into a project and at the end you dont get the desired result! Big let down! I dont have the solution unfortunately, but if you could perhaps list exactly, part by part of what was done by the workshop so we can see and work out how much it should of cost. It might give a fair idea of how much parts were and labour and whatnot to see if the amount spent equals the amount of work/parts done/supplied. Without knowing all of it in exact detail, to achieve the power you wanted you would of definitely needed bigger injectors and atleast a q45 afm. The powerfc can handle it fine. I dont know why he wants you to upgrade the computer?!?!

yeh i was joking around mate. But it would be cool if you did do that! Its common to find awd people annoyed when a rwd car shows them how its done. Good work on that mate! Well there are a few engine mods in progress, and some ancillary mods also. Moved the wastegate to collect from the ex housing, and some dry sump pump/gear mods. Had to rebuild the pump again after the last blow up. Most of it is just to help fix silly problems weve put up with for a while. Other things to make sure parts are running correctly. But we will see how it all goes at this next track day we attend. We are looking forward to running the car again and it hopefully not blowing up!

geez....your not far off it though, a 57.3 is pretty damn good...but the next time attack is where it will be at! Hopefully see how everything will go. I think the next time attack for us is in july or thereabouts? Car isnt in a running state atm. But will be by then. So its settled, 26/30 in the sil80, twins and about 400rwkws and go do 52's on the sprint track! Ill lend you some slicks to do it if you want

haha simon...mate we got alot of catching up to do! We are back in the game again TWINS! You know you want too! Just do what mark and russ have done.

small turbos on larger capacity engines can choke up the exhaust side, causing excessive back pressure in the manifold, which in turn keeps cylinder temps higher the normal via the back travel of heat. On the plus side you would have awesome response, but it would more then likely be prone to detonation, especially if the tuning isnt too good. so yeh, its messes with scavenging and creates a flow restriction which is the last thing you want in a turbocharged engine.

If you want to drill and tap them out, you can put whatever you want in there!

The statement about the rear oil return isnt completely true if you run a dry sump setup I took the rear hose off the other weekend and got covered in oil where it was sitting in a low spot and in filter! I had a similiar line of thought to you guys about its real effectiveness....turns out i was wrong, atleast in our setup! haha not only that but the filter at the start of the line had crud/bearing/conrod material in it from the blow up! However, wet sump systems may not actually have that much engine oil go down, especially on a road car. Drifting, dragging and circuit and perhaps ripping some donuts it would get some use, especially if there are no restrictors done...even worse if an aftermarket pump was fitted. Also if you were doing it properly you would be using minimum -12 for that. Common engineering sense would tell you to use a fitting/line size where its ID matches the OD of the hole or as close as possible. We all know there isnt alot of room back there, so you cant exactly go fitting a -20 line to the back of the head without rearranging the firewall. Valve guides....go std nissan...dont go bronze if someone tries to push them on you...they flog out way too quickly!