r33_racer

lucky i have a spare s1 block at work. I measured the hole size and I got about 1.3ish too. Across the board. Answer is (as i would do it), leave the vct std, machine up one bung to block off one feed and machine up another bung with the 1.2mm hole, or is it 1.0mm? Been a while...Std pump, id go 1.2mm, anything aftermarket 1.0mm. And that is all from experience

yeh! I think its only like 9/10mm wide from memory?!?!

geez sky30...thats pretty good power considering....our race car 25/30...pretty worked i might add with all the bits and we only made 385-390rwkw but on about 23-24psi. We run a 1.06 rear. An extra 10-15rwkws with less boost is a great achievement. gt35r's are very average imo. Im not a fan, the power comes on pretty quick, which is good, but even near 400kw the car feels slow/dull. A previous setup we had a to4z equivalent in the billet turbo range....a little laggier, full boost around 4800rpm range (about 21psi) Except we were making about 475-480rwkws(whilst wheel spinning mind you), which came on very nicely and obviously the power held right to redline where as the gt35r runs out of power at about 6300rpm atm. gt35r=dull I think you get numb to the rush of big horsepower as you go higher and higher....I remember when i was 17 and 300hp was a shitload! Also, im loving this thread, its full of good debate and info. Need more dyno graphs though! Would make for great comparisons.

if its just poor compression, that normally indicates that the rings have lost tension. If the pistons are fine, as in no signs of det on the crown or ringlands. All you really need is a new set of rings, gap them for each cylinder and do them abit tighter then normal. That would be a cheap and easy way to help solve the problem. If the bearings look fine, there is no need to change them. Most people just over torque the bolts a little extra to overcome the stretch....5-10% extra roughly. I did that in my car and ive had no issues....std rods and bolts.

lol im guessing you got a chuckle from that email? I would think it isnt polite to ask for someone elses CAD drawings. Especially of something they machine and sell. Lee you could just buy one from say....proengines perhaps? Oil pickups are finicky!

10psi per 1k of rpm has always been the rule of thumb. That plus say another 10psi extra is fine, however that is relative to main and bigend clearances, If its a street engine with tight tolerances say 1.5 - 2 thou then the rule is fine. However, race engines with larger clearances (2 thou +) may require more. Also note excessive pressure causes excessive friction on bearings (also in turn heats up the oil), especially those with tighter tolerances, which results in more heat and also robs hp. Oil flow is what is more important, good flow means cooler oil which keeps bearings cooler and oil at a better operating temperature. If everything is right, engine wise, you dont need big pressure...its a good cover up though! I wont even bother going in an explanation how super high pressure only makes the "oil in head, not in sump" issue even worse. Its pretty well self explanatory. Alot of people have issues with oil bypassing seals in turbos, restrictors or not it happens. At full noise i think a ballbearing turbo only requires about 45psi of oil pressure max, or something along those lines. Its alot less then what your oil pump ends up producing when your in the high rpm range.

ARP stud kit! Depends on the horsepower you are chasing. People use standard bolts upto 500whp....

rb's sit on about a 10degree lean towards p.s.

i believe this is about as good as it gets as its pretty painful to setup a proper oil squirter system like those in a 25/26. Admittedly it would be good for reduced piston heat...but your also adding more oil to the windage foundation. And that is an area that not alot of people look at, or even know exists.

i was talking in reference to oil squirters.... not the tang. I said on the side of the conrod. ill put up a picture...pretty well most conrods have this done nowadays...

Didnt anyone here try and search for this already and find SK's guide on oil control? That thread has everything you need. search "Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift" - SydneyKid

just half moon slot the sides of the conrod on the edge of the bearing seat, side face. Simple

just make sure if you get it, to be weary of a spline change if you get the upgraded input shaft, and what spline your clutch is. Could be a little pain. They are great though. The kit will shit it in for what you are doing.

this pre turbo injection....was it fed with boost pressure to help atomise the spray? As in a Y junction with both water and air pressure helping squirt into the centre of the compressor wheel, or was it purely relying on high water pressure? Someone on calais turbo had this setup on his 30. From memory i dont think there was any noticeable wear to the compressor wheel.

Really?? Since we fitted our inline filter, we have only ever saved turbos after engine blow ups.....

define cheap and easy?

a good crank scraper/head oil drainage to bypass rotating assembly? Free power there, why doesnt anyone think outside the usual stuff?

i guess if they dont leak, then dont worry about it. Im sure the pirtek guy knows what hes on about, that sort of thing is his job.

grab some copper ones.

carbon or stainless leads? How good is the wiring for these coil packs?

My bad, i meant the gt30 as an example, not as something you should do. Well if you cant mount it at a better angle to increase flow to the wastegate, then maybe mount it right off the turbine housing if space allows...otherwise i dont think you will be able to control boost with that setup. Try welding some extensions off each half of your waste gate pipe in each half of the collector protruding into the exhaust flow a little, it might help direct some of the gas into the wastegate.

I dont think twin gates will fix the problem...the problem is very little back pressure and flow resistence to and through the turbo. The gasses are bypassing the wastegate pipe almost completely....if you chuck a gt30 on or something with a smaller turbine housing creating more back pressure it will control boost/ or atleast better then atm. Other wise you need to make the wastegate pipe protrude more into the collector to create a little turbulence so it tries to catch some gas and force it towards the wastegate, or mount your wastegate straight off the turbine housing where it is in the gases flow path. With the merge collector style manifolds, they are great for flow and aiding turbo response, but as a result of the design they suffer from boost control issues when you have descent sized turbos on there with little backpressure in the exhaust side of the system. If you check your wastegate manufacturers booklet they normally show how it should be mounted....and im fairly certain it should be mounted at a minimum of 90 degrees off the flow path or less. I think at a 45 is ideal and the way to go.

If you suffer from that problem, then that fix helps boost control. WG straight off turbine housing is ideal for boost control as its in the exhaust flow path. The merge collector style manifolds flow so well that with larger turbos and minimal restrictions the exhaust gas virtually bypasses wastegate/s unless they are right in the firing line. Ive had both setups and noticed no difference other then one providing perfect boost control and the other not so much...

lol that is a way better solution!

Guilt Toy you are being sarcastic right? Im pretty sure he is betting 100 bux that a proper setup will beat e85! lol rub the sleep out of your eyes mate and re read it