r33_racer

and did you guys end up running the 33gtr like everyone was talking about?

+1 for 2rismo. only think i reckon is to use crc in bore, moly assembly paste on bearings and cam followers.... hmm already assembled, my bad. Well hopefully your mechanic did that already.

oh Trent, you are right with all of that! We have had bent girdles before! Line boring FTW! It is now IMO that linishing in a race engine or any high hp engine to achieve any clearance is a complete wank! Any workshop that does it that way should be shot! Needs to be line bored, crank ground so everything is spot on.....none of this linish and have three different measurements across the face of one big/main journal. There are many dodgy workshops out there who do that because its easier and cheaper! Another lesson learnt....you cant trust machine shops....mic everything up yourself!

electrical gauges....not as good as mechanical. Well atleast in my opinion..wait IMO!

lol evl-r33 i was about to suggest the samething! Try some toluene.

sodium filled valves std.

discopotato is on the money back on page 2. +1

pump might not be getting full volts and isnt pumping its rated flow???

kudos to you mate....do it yourself. I like your style! Build it all yourself, only goto the workshop for a tune! Its only money!

ahh how did i miss this thread and all the good stuff in it???? horny horny horny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Im so jealous of you guys....can i be your son russ?? I come race ready and with some race car skills!!!!! Ive got mechanical skills from dad and im a fabricator by trade....Surely you can trade a son or daughter with my old man for me???? I would totally do it!

I would imagine almost all of the gasket would have to be leaking or blown-out for it to leak enough so that the manifold doesnt see any positive pressure at all. I guess if you fix this problem and it doesnt fix 'it' then its still something else. However, if it does then congratulations! Hopefully you will be trouble free.

we run a peterson fuel filter inline with the -4 line to the turbo as an oil filter. They are accessible so you can open it and clean it out and put it back together instead of throwing away filter and replacing it. Easier to inspect exactly what its catching. I think its a 40 micron element from memory. Other bonus is its alot smaller then another oil filter and remote block. Would only be 1" in diameter and maybe 3" tall.

Yeh joel you're right the std pumps are pretty right. hot temps we aim for the 10 per 1000 rule with about +5/+10 ontop which can sometimes disappear depending if the temps go out of ideal operating range...hence the extra. limit is 7500rpm so around 80psi-85psi. idle around 35psi. As stated these are hot running temps. Cold they are considerably higher. Besides the oil in head problem, alot of people forget about oil bypassing turbo seals and blowing smoke from the excessive pressure.

Since the japs dont engineer every motor that one of the n1 or brand name pumps are going on they probably just run stupid high pressures to allow for all possibilities....high pressure is good for being on the 'safe side' eg if your tolerances are not spot on, or you have tight tolerances and your power level starts creeping up and cylinder pressures are almost forcing your big ends onto the crank then the higher pressure can stop this from happening. Assuming everything is spot on then the higher pressure is only going to exaggerate the 'too much oil in head issue'. When we used an N1 pump in our firce race motor we didnt change the relief spring to a std one and we paid the price with overflowing catch cans....we had done all the oil control mods too. Dale im sure your all over this one mate. You know what your doing

Having good mechanical gauges is the way to go. Digital gauges run into dramas more often then mechanical. +1 for Beer Baron's answer. Oil Temp (after cooling), Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure If this car gets thrashed or raced on a regular basis and makes or will be making descent power eg. 300rwkws+ then another Oil Temp before cooling, assuming wetsump system here probably in the pan somewhere would be ideal or inline between pump and cooler. (Good for keeping an eye on bearings) If you get digital gauges and tap into the computers sensor wires...if that sensor plays up or fails(which they do when they are XX years old), your gauge will only see the same readings or lack of....having a second independent sensor will stop that from happening. Gauges and sensors seperate to OEM is ideal.

high pressure normally equates to increased friction, increase in oil temp/bearing temp, places greater load on oil pump/gears, drains horsepower. Good oil flow is more important then insane pressure. Good oil temps are also important...inside the motor good flow delivers cooler oil. Good bearing choice and good oil is more important then having stuidly high oil pressure. Good, Good and Good!

excessive oil pressure can be negative. Rule is 10psi per 1000rpm.

loose injector plug? or perhaps faulty injector?

regular oil change, oil doesnt have to be the best in the world but if you change it after every race meeting it will definetely help it survive. keep revs in check as stated, revs kill engines quicker then well tuned excessive horsepower. make sure the tune is spot on, detonation will destroy pistons/rings and bearings. Keep temperatures in check, rb's in circuit/hillclimbs situations run hot both oil and water - invest in a good radiator/heat exchanger setup and monitor water and oil temps(both in and out) constantly and record what is normal running temps. Noticeable differences will help you pick up on any upcoming problems, especially the oil temps! Alot of those things relate to eachother, one can cause another to pop up. If you can keep those things under control along with the other ideas mentioned the car should last for quite sometime assuming the motor is in good condition and not on its way out already.

ignoring the boost gauge altogether...does the car accelerate like its on boost or as if its N/A? Can you hear the turbos spool? Check the oil feeds are not clogged. It could be ceased turbos. Other then that, probably an air leak somewhere.

they look impressive....good ideas there.

Weird where people get these ideas that japanese products are just so good...in comparison to other companies in this world, they are quite average. Alot of times, japense parts for japanese cars are not the best choice. I dont think ACL are actually that small too. But i had heard that acl also make the nismo bearings....not so hard to believe, holinger were commissioned by nissan to make the racing dogbox for the 32gtrs back in the day.....they probably make some of the best gearboxs for race use in the world, same principle goes for motec/autronic. Hard to believe i know, that Australian companies are actually the best at somethings in this world when it comes to cars and motorsport! Being better then the japs isnt that hard, its the euro companies and stuff that are hard to beat....sometimes the americans too. Way off topic....but acl bearings, especially race series are used by most top end racers, doesnt matter whether its drag racers, circuit racers, drift racers or sprint cars even road cars. They are spot on. Too hard a bearing is not possible, any bearing that isnt alloy will probably damage the crank if it touches it severely at almost any rpm/load. But as everyone knows if the bearings are touching the crank, then you have another problem which is more then likely bigger then a bearing selection problem. Normal running operation will not damaged the crank.

aftermarket radiator and heat exchanger? or the two combined!

I guess it would be more a when you stop making power...or piston speeds....or when it blows up, build another and dont rev it so far

im also interested in the rev limit....any rough ideas brad?