r33_racer

The best Jerry! The BEST!

awesome..................................

The car is worked on and stored here in the old mans back shed. But whenever various bespoke parts and ideas need to be fabricated/machined/designed we go here......the other workshop! Couple of welders, CNC's and manual mill/lathes, punch n shears, 60T brake press, pipe bender/roller.

could be just dodge ops?!?!

my mistake on the static comp assumption...i thought you may have gotten a rb30et not rb30e. Eitherway all good.

Im assuming your using used rb25 bolts. I would go the higher value with a 10% extra on top (say around 113-115nm). I think the extra should allow for the stretch and flex in the used bolts and since its not a bearing, having abit more wont really hurt. I went the extra in my road rb25 when i rebuilt it, not a rb30 block, but same head and bolts and a threaded hole is a threaded hole. The only thing you might think about is that you are probably running a higher static comp to what the std sohc rb30s ran...so naturally you now will have more force trying to lift the head and that will only grow depending on how much boost your going to run from whichever turbo your system utilises.

Id be worried about foreign material going through your oil system as a result of the gears rubbing on the pump body...remember things expand when they get hot! Ally in your oil will make you cry Im with shane.........fix your pump issue. Unless you think you can get the pump off with out taking motor out...you can drop cross member, whilst motor is supported, drop sump and then pull off pump. You will be a much happier person doing that, then if the worst happens and you then have to pull it out anyway.

time for an aftermarket comp!

Less accurate and easily influenced by foreign particles. Internal and external Mic's the way to go! Three point variety too(for internal) if you can afford them.

hahaha...your joking right? That is different!

we supported somewhere between 470-500rwkws with a 4" system from turbo back, no mufflers though with w.g merging straight into the dump pipe. Race car so it was loud....

haha....in what part of oz would that be a problem? Then again im in qld...so we dont really know what cold is

+1 for what russ and darren have said! I do believe the peterson guide says you can run an oil cooler on both the pressure side to the block and from the pump to the tank...so oil is being cooled before it goes to the engine and then before it gets to the tank. Having the one before the tank helps keep the back part of the system cooler...doesnt really matter i guess, as said the critical part is keeping oil before it gets used cool.

+1 for dry sump

I would strip it completely and check everything! Very Simple. Main bearings, Big ends and small ends, check bore, check all rings and gaps. Obviously check pistons and ringlands for any signs of detonation. Do almost everything you would be doing if you were building it from scratch. Head: check your valve guides, check how well the valves are seating, spring tension, lash clearance. I guess while you have it apart you could easily do the oil mods. I assume you wouldnt buy a r34 gtr longblock just to throw in and thrash and wait till it dies inorder to do it right later on yeh?

if its a 90 degree hose coming from the turbo outlet, then you cant use them successfully long term....the heat from your exhaust manifold weakens the back of it, that combined with internal pressure is enough to bust em open. Best option that always works is to tig on a 90 degree ally bend to replace the silicon hose. If its a straight silicon hose and its tearing open....then you have some other major dramas. Ive never seen a straight silicon hose rip open from internal pressure or from movement. Maybe you could have a busted engine mount and thats letting it move enough to rip it??? Tried to cover both options since you didnt state which type it is.

yeh thats our car...my old man discovered sau and is slowly learning about online forums lol....so he has been doing his own thing on here. Hopefully in a few weeks we will have a new motor that will hold together! But in the long ass wait for the machining to happen we have been working on a few other things to hopefully make the car abit quicker/reliable/tidier and more fun to drive.

very nice mate! Looking good. Will be good to have a run with you at the track when its all ready. Looks like it will shit out some good times too

I posted about this before ages ago....you can use copper mig tips...just find the size that has the correct hole diameter you want and machine it down or cut it down to suit. Pretty sure most std mig tips are around a 1/4" OD.....actually i cant recall now...maybe it was about 7mm or 5/16"...either way it works

what water jackets need to be lined up??? The vct oil line is in the guide!

have you actually measured them? or is this an eye measurement your going on? Grab your verniers and check that the hole is 1.5mm.

thanks for the offer geoff....but dad ended up getting a whole 26 head the other week anyway. So i need to change that sig now lol...Even so, we wouldnt have needed the idle control anyway...race car we just do it manually...one less valve, less weight and clutter

If you were to bypass all the throttle and inlet manifold water cooling from that Y piece, you can run it straight to the turbo water feed as that is where it normally ends up after all the rest of it.

needs to be 'watered down' to get thin. As said, old oil normally gets thicker and blacker.

only problem with probably 90% of stainless manifolds available atm is they are all crap...wall thickness too thin, design is piss poor. If you modify them and brace everything they will last a while, on a road car that is. But the time, money and effort that goes into pulling it off every 6 months because the flanges have warped and cracks have formed and need welding makes it worthwhile to actually spend more and buy a descent one that you wont have to touch after its been fitted the first time. On the race car i got sick of pulling it off and repairing it and putting it back on every 2nd race meet.....discovered 6boost manifolds and have never had an issue......ever.