r33_racer

holy shit.....fricken awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If your exhaust looks offset from the front, you need to line up the camgear from the back. As in follow the dotted tooth along its side and line it up from the back of the gear with the rear timing plate. Then you can line it up spot on, from the front because of the lean of the motor and whatnot its difficult to get it bang on. I mark the inlet and exhaust gears along the side of the respective teeth and line it up that way, it helps get it right everytime. Your exhaust could be one tooth out, which i think equals 15 degrees of cam timing. It would explain why you've had to advance the base timing inorder to get it running better.

we had a .82 gt30 on our old rb30det...think we pushed 365-370rwkws out of it with water/meth injection on shell 100 pulp. 8k redline and it was pulling all the way...didnt die out at all from memory. 256 8.5mm tomei poncams and greddy inlet, is what helped it maintain that power rise to redline...atleast thats what i think...maybe the water/meth injection too

i would change 8 to gt30r. number 1 to twin cam headgasket fo shizzle.

second that!

mate...fricken excellent work there! I admire that you do your own work and it has payed off Kudos to you!

when we get a motor that holds together long enough to inspect after a season of racing ill let you know how the mahles look....but after the last quick blow up with them in it, they seem like brand new, considering the amount of bearing material that was being rammed up its clacker!

would be better off making an adaptor between manifold and turbo that can have a pipe coming off it to utilise an ext gate.

we run two coolers in our circuit car. One heat exchanger in the p.s radiator tank and then one 19row pwr air oil cooler in the d.s front guard. problem now is we cant get oil temps even warm!

my old man is getting more and more street cred....what the hell dad! I thought you said you couldnt use a computer??? haha

grab a set of both 8's and 9's. Tune and run car on 8's, pull them out and have a look how they are running and how the engine is running and if you need to go colder then try the 9's. I wouldnt think you would need to goto 10's though.

haha yeh we did simon....but it appears we are not anymore haha we will have to catch up so i can tell you what the latest is and vice versa. Ive been slack on here and busy with work and personal crap...plus all the new race car developments! I re looked at the mahle pistons before and yeh like you said simon they do have the coating.

mahle pistons have the skirt coating standard Atleast i think, it looks that way anyhoo haha.

ice cold spark plugs for operating temps and then ambient temp ones for when its cold and missing like a bitch

just buy one from your local clutch place. plastic aligning tool....cost ya about $20. Just count how many spline your input shaft is and get that one from the shop!

ohh yeh foil bearing turbos...exactly what i was thinking! I thought perhaps that was what this thread was going to be about haha. Just maybe someone got the title wrong guess not!

yeh as beer baron said, oil pressure is generally always greater then your water pressure. How was the headgasket? You said no damage to head, but normally oil in water means its squeezed in via leak in headgasket somewhere.

haha yeh...that would be nice!

awesome...that would be great Ben..cheers mate.

Anyone else have any thoughts...

Exhaust manifold design perhaps? Possibly the size of the runners? Perhaps they are too restrictive???

good work on the power noel I love the sarcasm and bullshit in this thread....its amazing! Im not even mad haha. (Anchorman quote for the uneducated)

I doubt that many 15yr olds behind the counter at any autoparts store in canada would have any idea what an rb30 is haha...let alone what belt is required for the dohc conversion. Definetely misunderstood the question!

Yeh first off i considered extending them all down to the sump....and then i went one step further and thought why not just stop it at the source? I know thats a very old school trick of bypassing the crank. But it looks a little painful to run hoses out of the drain holes and to the sump, haha id rather tap and grubscrew the returns from the head, so much easier and less shit involved! I appreciate the idea though Adriano Im hoping Gary will throw in his two cents?

interesting...I have heard about it before....but then there was the argument that it can create hotspots by localising heat in areas where the coating isnt the same thickness or whatever...blah blah...But I guess if Gary has used it and its been proven it must be feasable. So ceramic is another option then. Cheers Brad!