r33_racer

Has anyone tried adapting something or making some custom set of piston oil squirters up for the rb30 hybrids to help reduce piston temps? No, not trying to pick up the main gallery and bolting squirters to the block where they are in the other RB's if someone suggests that its too difficult to do. I have read and been told this before. I havent seen anyone having any major dramas yet with piston temps or det/knocking because of a lack of piston cooling, but that doesnt mean it hasnt happened. I know that the forged pistons that most people use in their hybrid builds are pretty good at handling the increased temps as induced from increased power. But is splash feed enough to cool the piston as well as lubricate the bore and wrist pin? or splash directed from conrod bearing skirt grooves? Could the latter have a similiar effect on piston cooling, comparable to straight squirters or doesnt it have enough direct pressure to reach and flood the underneath of the piston? I had this thought when i was thinking about blocking the internal oil returns today. I have a roughish idea of what could work for piston oil squirters, but i imagine someone else would have already done something or tried something before as rb30 hybrids have been around for quite a while now. Any ideas or knowledge are welcome. Michael.

your never keen on much local product mate...you must love all things jap

Howdy peoples. Im curious to know if anyone has done or thought about doing this in their race car setup with a dry sump system. Im in the process of designing a good crank scraper for our rb30 to prevent oil entrapment around the crank, whilst modifying my pan/design. I was staring at the block having a ciggy before and i thought since we have a scavenge from the back of the head, why not block off the std internal returns and leave it all upto the the rear -12 return. It would eliminate some part of the oil floating around the inside of the block from getting caught up in the cranks whirlwind and draining the crank of free usable horsepower. Having solid lifters in the head and no vct, there is no need for the huge amounts of oil to be in the head, so having minimal feed as per SK's restriction methods, I guess im curious to know if the one scavenge would be sufficient? When you think about it, there are no breathers up there anymore, its totally sealed off except that rear return & the std returns. The motor is running in a mild vacuum as we run a four stage pump with three scavenges and I believe we were seeing around 3-4 inches of mercury (last time we checked on the dyno) so not only does it get forced towards the back because of forward moving G forces, but also the vacuum created from the design nature of the oiling system. Looking forward to some ideas and or experience people have had with this possible setup. Ok...now hit me!

Talk to Richard at ARE, here in brisbane. Their work is top notch. They have done both our intercooler and radiator on the race car.

the sm4 in our car is a plug in one...they have been available since mid last year.

I machined up and fabricated one that fits the ID of the whole welsh plug hole with an ally pipe coming off it that goes down towards the inlet side, the ID of the return pipe is 3/4" and has a -12 fitting on the end. The whole block sticks out 39mm from the back of the head. In our r33, there is no problem with clearance when taking the motor in and out. The same fitting was used in a r32 4 door and the firewall had to be moved back for it to clear, but it wasnt much. But both these are used in dry sump setups. But I would imagine you would want the return as big as possible as gary stated. As said you can always move the firewall back a little!

be interesting to know why it died. I believe the majority of failures are from gears cracking or the backing plate coming loose.

not just phat....but fully sik also brah!

they shouldnt leak unless they are warped badly or have high and lows somewhere along the rings that is stopping it from sealing completely. But normally v bands are an excellent and bulletproof way of joining pipes. I love them! All turbos should have them for exhaust in and out, would make it so much easier to fit and remove...plus neatness!

Your statement appears to be the same. Perhaps you should back up what you say with some solid facts before making yourself look stupid....which you have already done. Alot of people are useing them with no problems. Weve been using spool rods in our race car over the last few years. If i can get a dyno printout from Mercury...I can show that we made over 620hp+ at the rears whilst wheelspinning...ofcourse the motor had spool rods in it! Thats about 700-800bhp @ the crank if an accurate hp reading could have been obtained. Whose else has big hp figures with them?

thats exactly what i like to hear!

John you and dad need to stop stirring shit....dad should be back in the shed working on the race car and you should be on a toyota forum...

kyles obviously (6boost) | | | | | v

den001...im jealous you used the diesel 28block....i would love to see pics of the mods needed to make that work with a rb head. 9500rpm...mate sure your tacho aint broke! You must have lots of money to spend, you realise wear and tear increases at a stupid rate the more you rev the thing?

or get a top feed rail to suit the injectors? Im curious how you fitted top feed injectors into a side feed rail? You must have modified the crap out of the rail?!?!

I havent heard of anyone not welding up the water gallery to provide a larger surface area for it to seal on. It would probably work without building it up, but its just a peice of mind thing knowing it has more area to seal on. There should be heaps of pics floating around from this being brought up before. For the external oil feed that is. On our current head we dont have any external oil feed and we dont run vct

I disappeared for a few months, come back and people are still asking the same questions about the same things....dang i was hoping there would be new topics and problems people have come across by now same ole same ole.... someone needs to do something really different and interesting!

its a drift thing

we just got a new set of mahle 40 thou oversize forged pistons from hi octane. They look very schmick! Will be the first set of pistons used in one of the many rb30 builds weve done that hasnt come from CP. Judging by the specs on the piston box i imagine it will net a comp ratio of about 8.2:1, same as the flat tops CP provide for the conversion.

Al, Im glad to hear that everything turned out the way you wanted. Except the block, that really kills the joy of doing it all. It really sucks when something like that is missed, your lucky that it hasnt caused any major dramas that could have made the whole situation worse. Hopefully after everything is transferred to the new block things will work out good and well, and for a long time too Then you can fully enjoy the effort and time that has gone into the whole project.

BAM!

no adaptor sorry.

1. Greddy intake manifold to suit rb25 $600.00.(SOLD) 2. 6Boost Exhaust manifold to suit rb25 with t4 flange. $700.00.(SOLD) 3. Mr Turbo T66, equivalent to a t04z. $1700.00 4. 2 X gt35 exhaust housings .63 and .82 $200.00 each. New. 5. Tein HA suspension with extra set of softer springs. No strut tops. $700.00 6. PWR 50mm Alloy Radiator suit r33 comes with attached twin thermos $500.00 (SOLD) 7. Fibreglass r33 front pumped gtr guards. Brand new. $400.00 (SOLD) 8. Fully reconditioned 5speed r33 gearbox $2,500.00 9. 4 x Hoosier 295 x 35 x r17" semi slicks $350.00 each (new and unused.) 10. r33 crashed rolling shell, has diff and brakes and other various panels. $1000.00 with brakes, $500.00 without. 11. Stainless Exhaust manifold to suit rb25 with tial wastegate $150.00 (SOLD) All Parts are in Brisbanes northside. Contact mobile is 0438 110 959 Michael.

I think if you built a non interference motor, it would be pretty dull simply cause the compression would be that low, as the valves typically come pretty damn close to the piston.

sorry to hear about all the misfortune youve had. But im curious to know who did the work? I use kyles exhaust manifolds and plazmamans inlet manifold...both are very high quality pieces and ive never had any dramas. Used in both road and race applications. It normally pays off to go down the quality road, saves you the hassles in the long run.